boldy

If it,s just stitch welded your leaving a gap inbetween the welds that moisture caused by condensation forming on the inside of the panels could penetrate and start rusting again even if it,s waxoiled theres always a chance of not covering it all , i,ve always seam welded arches to eliminate any chance of this happening . HTH

Cheers bud but it,s not really fair taking much credit for it , as it,s what i do for a living , i,m a panelbeater bud , unfortunately it,s a busmans holiday doing this on my days off but it,s gotta be done :yes: Just thought the pics might help if anyones gonna tackle the same job:biggrin:

I,ve took this week off with the intention of getting all the welding done on the zed , two days in and one sides done Cut the sill section off to reveal Then cut the inner panel back to reveal So i made a repair section and a new drain tube Then sectioned the inner panel Then the outer sill section and cut down the repair arch to as little as i could use as the arch only had one section of rot on it but i thought it best to fit it all anyway for peace of mind Just the other side to do now !!!

Hiya , it might be worth printing this off and showing it to the MOT place , there,s usually play in them it just depends on how much .HTH http://www.300zx.org.uk/nissan_bulletin.htm

I got a replacement from Halfrauds . HTH

It was a fair bit longer in total as i had to deal with all this first :ohmy:

This might give you some idea if there,s room with sidemounts bud . http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=139303

It,s for an aftermarket bling power steering resovoir :cool3:

I,ve just used rattle cans for the base but two pack laquered on top for the finish , worked a treat .

That.s usually caused by the fuse in the drivers footwell blowing bud , iirc third fuse top row . hope it,s something as simple as that :thumbup1:

Jeff your a star , thanks soooo much , that,s going to save alot of trial and error. :bow::bow::bow::bow:

Bump !!

My first swap was on an auto , we left the box in place , saves alot of time and effort , the power steering pump we undid and just moved it out of the way so we didn,t have to disconnect any pipes and the same with the aircon pump . hth

Thanks for the replys lads and a bump for Jeff :helpsmilie::helpsmilie:

Beat ya to it bud , got pi55ed off getting caught out by the weather :thumbup::thumbup:

If you put a search for MR2 repair panels this guy does alot of these and this is how i tracked him down and contacted him , i bought all six panels , really nicely made but i needed all six and it was £250 but he does sell them individually.HTH

Hiya bud , just need to pick your brains again :yes: I,ve put the auto alternator loom back on as you recommended , there,s the three connectors , starter , speed controller and i gather the other one the isolator connector that i need to bridge ? You said i need to make a connection loom for the reverse lights , which connector on the box is the reverse switch ? These are the original connections for the autobox , i gather the reverse needs to be re-connected to one of these but which one bud ? also which one is the neutral plug that i also need to bridge ? Sorry to be a pain bud but i,ve searched high and low to find the answers but all i can find is the american guide which has a completely different wiring set up :thumbdown: Thanks Allan

Bump for Jeff :thumbup:

Jeff i,ve got a auto alternator loom so i can swap that back I,ve now fitted that back on , there,s only the three connectors on this loom , starter motor , speed sensor and one that doesn,t match anything on the box , is that the isolator one that you have to bridge ? On the box which plug is for what purpose ? Thanks

Or any one who,s come across this . I,ve converted to manual and fitted a manual engine loom as well , got a nearly new loom at an excellent price so it made sense to use it , now we,ve tried to start connecting things up an came across these two problems. On the alternator / gearbox loom behind the headlight one of the connectors is different , original auto one has six connections in it and the manual one has eight .. The colours of six are the same Original auto plug has.. New manual loom has .. .................................... ............................................................ yellow . empty . empty " yellow . empty . green . green /yellow stripe ................................ " ........................................................... blue . white/ " blue . white /. green/. brown red stripe . brown " . red . white . ...................................." . stripe . stripe ........................................................... Also the three connections above the fuse box , i now only have two plugs to go in there , was one for the auto box ? Cheers for any info . Allan

They,re the ones bud , both the same , are you sure it,s your inner ball joints that have play in them cos the outer ones tend to wear worst , or it could be a combination of play in both inner and outer ball joints , worth checking just in case .HTH Outer hicas ball joints , got mine from Mike Feeney MJP but i,ve found these as well . http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nissan-300ZX-Fairlady-Z32-Rear-Hicas-New-Ball-Joint-/280487836118?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM

I,ve heard you,ve ordered your new transport Vinz :wheelchair::wheelchair::wheelchair::wheelchair::wheelchair::tt2::tt2: Your not far off about remembering where things go bud , thank fook for digital cameras and computers :wink:

Cheers bud , just a pity my drive now looks like a scene from C.S.I , well i,ve told a few neighbours that a body,s been found :biggrin:

Yay , finally got round to dropping it back in with me old mucker Mantav8 , looks a bit messy as i,ve stuck sticky back plastic all over to stop and scuffs and scratches :smartass: Been trying to get things done but as you can see i aint got a garage and the weathers been 5hit just lately so i,ve treated myself , i don,t care what it looks like as long as it keeps the rain off . Where else can you get a garage for £150 ? lol

I,ve not fitted them yet bud but it,s straight forward as each guage comes with a ready made loom and my boost guage is electric one so it also does the start and close sequence , i,ve got oil temp and pressure as well, gonna get a couple more for my A pillar pod . I,m fitting an aftermarket cooling fan but don,t want one of those temperature switches that fits into the top hose to switch it on and off , with these light you can get a little exterior warning light that is controlled by the guage to go and off at what temp you set it to so i,m gonna use that function but not the light to trip a relay to control the cooling fan !! good eh :thumbup: