Medallion Man

a mate has a TT (1JZ), nice cars and quick, however the system has been restricted and the back turbo seems to be a regular problem... parts are a bit harder to come by than for the z... If you do a bit of work on one it will go like stink, my mate did a single turbo conversion with intercooler and the difference is amazing. a regular issue seems to be the fuel pump as well... I don't know much about the V8 but it's not as quick.

Yeah, good luck... and as has been said you don't have to say goodbye... just see you later... as you know we have members on here in Europe, the Americas, Oz & NZ... etc..

Yeah, good luck... and as has been said you don't have to say goodbye... just see you later... as you know we have members on here in Europe, the Americas, Oz & NZ... etc..

no.. all the lights are the same... 99 spec fit in all models so it would the same the other way as well..

no.. all the lights are the same... 99 spec fit in all models so it would the same the other way as well..

can't you use something like this.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-PIECE-DAMAGED-BOLT-SCREW-STUD-EXTRACTOR-REMOVER-EASY-OUT-/260885652248?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3cbdff2318 you have to drill a hole in the middle of the broken bolt and then screw them in (left hand thread) plenty of penetrating oil or WD40 first ...

can't you use something like this.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-PIECE-DAMAGED-BOLT-SCREW-STUD-EXTRACTOR-REMOVER-EASY-OUT-/260885652248?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3cbdff2318 you have to drill a hole in the middle of the broken bolt and then screw them in (left hand thread) plenty of penetrating oil or WD40 first ...

the supra is heavy and gutless...(a mate of mine had one... sold it again after three months). so it really depends on what you want it for.... showy or for fun... :) (fun would be the skyline)

so for £80 each that's £240 labour + materials... (assuming it's only £80 for the back seat) and is that, you take the covers off or you give them the seats? anyone know how much the leather is?

this stuff is better... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BOLT-PANEL-SEALER-BUTYL-TAPE-ROLL-STRIP-SEALANT-BONDING-CARS-BOATS-VANS-/220932314564?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item33709795c4#ht_500wt_1176 pretty much identical to the original seal... let me know if you want some extra instructions to get the best results... and I'll email then to you.. :)

yeah, i bought one off ebay.... but I have noticed that using the on-line parts list: http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/ Once you drill right down to each part it shows you any other Nissan that also used the same part. I hope that helps.... e.g. the oil filter... http://nissan4u.com/parts/info/15208H8903/ Filter oil, 15208H8903 also fits (I've removed most of the model & year info.. but you get the drift): 100NX B13 200SX S13 300ZX Z32 Date Roof Engine Seat Grade Transmission '90, January — T-BAR ROOF VG30DETT TYPE ENGINE 2+2 SEATER GL TYPE MANUAL TRANSMISSION '90, January — T-BAR ROOF VG30DETT TYPE ENGINE 2+2 SEATER GL TYPE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ALMERA N15 BLUEBIRD T12 BLUEBIRD T72 BLUEBIRD U11 CABSTAR F22 Date Body Bed Engine Transmission Tire Chassis '82, January — LONG BODY LOW BED.STEEL Z20 TYPE ENGINE 5 SPEED FLOOR SHIFT TYPE SINGLE TIRE STANDARD '82, January — LONG BODY HIGH BED.STEEL Z20 TYPE ENGINE 5 SPEED FLOOR SHIFT TYPE SINGLE TIRE STANDARD '82, January — LONG BODY LOW BED.A-CHASSIS Z20 TYPE ENGINE 5 SPEED FLOOR SHIFT TYPE SINGLE TIRE A-CHASSIS CABSTAR F23 Date Body Engine Bed type Transmission '92, July — '94, May TRUCK NA20S TYPE ENGINE HIGH BED,STEEL MANUAL TRANSMISSION '92, July — '94, May TRUCK NA20S TYPE ENGINE HIGH BED,A-CHASSIS MANUAL TRANSMISSION CHERRY N12 KING CAB D22 KING CAB D21 LAUREL C32 MAXIMA J30 PRAIRIE M10 PRAIRIE M11 PRIMERA P11E PRIMERA P10E PRIMERA WAGON W10 PRIMERA WAGON WP11E SERENA C23M SILVIA S12 SUNNY B11.............. etc....

Who did you go? another think I've noticed is that if you have spacers on the front (depends on the type) if the wheels aren't done up properly and the spacers cleared every once in a while it tends to make a clunk as well, mostly when breaking...

the FAQ storage area is your friend.... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=79566&referrerid=16305

you could start with this.... ECU code check... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=128845&referrerid=16305 the other thing (that's easy) to do is check/clean all the electrical connectors in the engine bay...

As far as I'm aware its not the right thing to do... you shouldn't clean the MAF with anything that leaves a residue... (non-residue spray on electrical contact cleaner, only) that will only cause problems... need to see what Jeff says about doing this....

As far as I'm aware its not the right thing to do... you shouldn't clean the MAF with anything that leaves a residue... (non-residue spray on electrical contact cleaner, only) that will only cause problems... need to see what Jeff says about doing this....

Hi, not much help, but yes on my JDM both sides fold. No idea how hard they are to fix. good luck..

OK, not sure what exactly you've done.... so have you checked each of the coil packs... by unplugging them one at a time to see if there is any difference.. also try running it with the MAF unplugged see if it's worse. the connector checks should include pulling them apart and cleaning any corrosion. i think there are instructions on here somewhere about making a rudimentary plug for the air intake and then pressurising the induction system. check the connection to the ECU but you shouldn't disconnect it with the battery connected (so I've been told).

I had similar and it was my bottom ball joint... really hard to see it move... eventually i found it using a large screwdriver.... good luck...

How have you tested for leaks?

as above and taking them off and soaking in hot water.... also see in the for sale section.... or post in the wanted...

it's a hard call.... I don't know of anyone that has used it but I can tell you that it is possible. On ships they use blocks of metal that corrode faster than the hull (they call them sacrificial anodes). corrosion is an electronic process (obviously, that's how a battery works) so it is possible for something like that to work. I would be concerned with it causing issues with the electrics as they go though the cars body. it would be nice if anyone has had first hand experience with this type of kit...

My sentiments to your family.

Very nice.... I'm impressed...

posted on the orange site... link to the US twin turbo site: http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/tech/defroster/dashboard.htm