Medallion Man

I have a Clifford alarm, and that is the key coder for making changes to the alarm (adding FOB's and stuff). what alarm if any do you have fitted? did you get any paper work/ guides with it? for the most part the fob will activate and deactivate... no real need for it..

that is an alarm code key entry....

this is the dash layout.... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?41352-Instrument-panel-layout&referrerid=16305

that sounds like the right way to me...

dam, that reminds me... got to get some oil...

I agree with Jeff... go with green... red is really more suited to track... (and not good cold as above)

good advice I use aus300ZX.com/tech all the time....

my condolences and sympathy... I know only too well how pets (particularly dogs) become a real part of the family...

I'm running 530 BBs and they took a load of punishment when I had a broken induction pipe... still going strong and pulling well...

agreed.. and make sure there is play in the direction you are tying to turn it ... :)

Hi Andy..... pm me your emails address and I'll send you a copy of my guide.... it's a composite of some of the other guides out there with other bits in.... should make it very clear... I'll also include a list of tips and bits to be careful with... (like the "take your time" advise below)... :)

like Jimmer says... it's behind the speedo... you need to take the cover off the top, easy two screws and see if it has been de-limited...

is the rack leaking anywhere? not sure if there is an internal seal that could be ruptured causing it... don't suppose you have a replacement one handy....

LOL... did you actually reply to a rhetorical question.... (by the way that is another one)... :)

this is what it says on the BBC... What is the dispute about? The trade union Unite says the strike ballot is about safety standards and terms and conditions. The union says the industry is too "fragmented" and wants a "national forum" which would hold the employers to account over conditions. It claims some workers have had their contracts repeatedly renegotiated and some have had six different pension providers in 10 years. Unite also says shorter delivery deadlines have created a "turn and burn" culture. Unite insist the dispute is not about pay. as has has been said, this doesn't compare the the armed forces.... but you can see how much of a problem they can cause..... kind of puts me back in mind of just how much money football players and actors / musicians get.... for what!!???!!

agreed.... :drool: If I was going Yank (and had the cash) I would have that as choice #1.... and they look as good in the flesh...

I just can't believe what the Government officials have been saying about this possible strike.... It seems to me that they are the ones causing this problem and now laughing as all the extra fuel revenue rolls in... I'd love to see the figures....

I use 5W30 or 10W40 fully synthetic ... my preferred is magnatec

just saw this on facebook... someone might be interested... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150611255802186&set=o.36631567687&type=1&theater

the same question was asked a few days ago...... this is info I have (been told, given).... (from Conzult but I assume they should be the same value) > Closed Throttle Position > TPS 0.44-0.46 > Timing set at 15 Deg > IACV-AAC/V 15% > Mas Air Flow 1.30v + P/N position switch: ON > Injector Pulse 2.2 msec > Injector Duty 1.61% average values for STANDARD injectors (at idle) may vary slightly between cars > A/F Alpha 109% this is an average value and only works if you have fully functional O2-sensors and ideally you want this value to be close to 100%. any value over or under 100% means the ECU has to compensate with less or extra fuel to get the mixture right. Extreme compensations (> +/- 15%) usually mean something is wrong with either air (airleaks) or fuel (injectors/fuel pressure) > Water Temp 80 Deg C-84 Deg C > Fuel Temp 25 Deg C-35 Deg C NB: the fuel temp values are ignored by the ECU for the most part, so not really important in respect to getting the car running better . battery voltage: should be between 13.7 and 14.3 Volt (at any rpm) If the value is off, it may indicate (future) problems with the alternator the timing should always be verified with a timing light. Also the later Zeds don't follow the 15 BTDC at idle rule. They work quite different and use a variable ignition timing system to get better emissions ratios. Because of this the timing hovers between 5-10BTDC at idle.

yeah, agreed.... but if you aren't sure that is the right one take a pic and point it out or check out the parts catalogue... http://nissan4u.com/parts/300zx/el_z32/1993_8/type_1/body_electrical/head_lamp_front_combination_lamp_and_head_lamp_cleaner/illustration_3/

Z Centre.... http://www.zcentre.co.uk/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=230&category_id=61&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=7

LOL.. these people can't be serious... this must be some king of pi55 take..... "South African rap"... !!!!!

I'd be willing to lend you my one if you would promise to send it back to me.......

I can say that I've have a few fuel leaks.... crap clamps.... I've got the bolt style ones now....