Medallion Man

yes... its kind of a bulb out indicator... make sure all the wire are good and not rubbing anywhere, no corrosion and good earth.

Hi, Mine doesn't have a rear wiper so I don't know ... but is there a relay? can you check to see if there is current to the rear wiper and also check the earth...

Hey, only real way to tell age of JDM is by the VIN/chassis number against the manufacturing date list... any other parts can be swapped... :) http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.79

for me it was my second 240Z... To think I sold this for a Hyundai S Coupe ... I must have been mad!!!!

hi... all info you need is here... :) http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?41-Club-Membership-and-Enquiries

Hi, FYI... if these are yours you're not allowed to sell stuff on this forum unless you're a paid member... so better remove it before you get told off.. :)

OOOh... maybe I'd better update mine as well.. please send me that link so I can do it... particularly since I don't know when "before Mars 23, 2013" is.. :) but I'm sure Earth is before Mars and Venus is after... still not clear what planet they're on though.

lol... very good... hope you have a good one.. :)

ditto..

so is there a happy ending to this? have you got your money back?

and these ones are the right way round... http://www.wardenjp.com/stores/accessory.html

:)

yes, that's the one we're talking about... see the link I posted...

simple answer is NO but that will depend on how mechanical you are.... not really that hard a job for someone with the tools, however the ball joint is in tight and will require some force to get it out.. let the search option be your friend.. see here: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?152679-Lower-Arm-Ball-Joint-Bush&highlight=front+ball-joint

that's strange, she also agreed to my help... i guess I'll see you at the airport... :)

that's strange, she also agreed to my help... i guess I'll see you at the airport... :)

what have you done so far to diagnose it?

the standard wheels are designed to fit the hub snug so you don't need spigot rings (unless as stated above spacers have been used to bring the wheels out). so Lee, it it would seem that isn't the cause...... however it might have just been that the wheels needed balancing. Anyway, irrespective of that, once you put non OEM wheels on you should used them (or hub-centric spacers) to take up any slack. time to check the gearbox mount and think about a single piece prop as well as checking all the bushing and links.

So it looks like the possible causes are: propshaft rubber housing (has become hard) missing or ill fitting spigot rings collapsed gearbox mount and the solutions: one piece prop shaft or replaced rubber (not cheap or quick to fit) hubcentric spacers (about £70 a pair but cheaper than a prop and easy to fit) new gearbox mount (cheap but not quick to fit either) none of these are easy to test… So I guess it’s going to have to be a take your pic and work your way along.. Might even be a combination of them.. Also make sure your track rod ends, torsion bar and all other bushing is tight. Best of luck.

lol.... back of engine and turbo lines.... but yeah, that's funny... :D

yes... 8mm

LOL.. the truth is I don't know.. :) but I do know that since the issue is just very slight it is most likely something "not very wrong". I can't say I've heard of that issue before and since you don't have a Conzult (nisture or whatever) readout on the car, it's hard to point to anything in particular. So checking all those things will ensure that they are not the cause (and again, worth doing anyway, that will keep you ahead of any related issues). there may be someone who has had that exact same issue and found the exact cause... but unless you do the checks and fixes one by one and then drive the car again it's hard to tell what exactly fixed it. the stuff I've posted is the best first point of action as it cost little... and I know only too well that id you chase a problem by replacing comments it will cost you a packet. :)

STOP IT!!!....... Dam .... I really miss my old 240z's and and 260z now... :(

and.... Jeff did a write up on TB calibration and there are heaps of other tech info on the site (in the tech section).. Other tech sites are: http://z32.wikispaces.com/ http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?cat.8 http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/tech.aspx http://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-technical-articles#300zx http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/index.html

Ah, I see…. Well to me it sounds like something no too bad and may just be something simple like a bad connection or similar. I would start with checking all the electrical connections in the engine bay (including the batter) hake sure they aren’t loose or corrodes. Disconnecting some of them is a bit of a pain but worth it if they are at fault. Be careful and take your time as the metal clips are a bit fiddly, if you are too rough you could damage connectors and that isn’t any help. Make sure you check the MAF, CAS, PTU & TPS connectors. (I’d be going straight for the CAS first). Check the air filter is clean and make sure your plugs are good. Check fuel filter and if you can fuel pressure. Check for leaks on the fuel rail. Make sure the TPS is calibrated right and check the timing with a timing light. The Throttle Bodies can also be checked and adjusted to be in sync. You can also check the resistance on the injectors and the coil packs. If you’re keen enough you could even take the CAS out and give it a clean (make sure you find a guide on it first, and be careful) A full diagnostic with Conzult could also help narrow down any issues (there might be someone close to you that can help with that). At the very least this work will rule out a heap of things. Best of luck