Medallion Man

some people..!!! good luck with the repair and costs.

Hi, well that sounds bad... it may have been a good idea to take a pic (on your phone) and then post it up. I'd say time to replace the rad.. lots of places do pressure tests on rads and can confirm the problem. if you have a manual then this is a good deal... (dealers section on the forum) http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?152125-300ZX-Radiator-Group-Buy! or you could put in the want adds but second hand rads aren't the best idea (although maybe cheaper).

go with sem-synthetic 10w30 or 15w30.. for these old cars you really don't want anything too loose. I use castrol, lots of good deals on it now. and they only take about 3 liters, a bit more with the filter changed and oil cooler)

agree.. but first thing to check (just in case and cheap) is that the gear stick boots haven't come loose... if its the case you will most likely hear the same noise in a couple of gears... well depends on how loose or broken it/they is/are). be careful (its brittle and will break easily at screw points) undoing the radio dash (4 screws, 2 on top & 2 in the middle and the cover strip). 3 screws for the console two at the bottom of the radio dash and one under the ash tray. list the console away so that you can access the bottom of the gear stick and check that both boots are OK (not loose or broken). the bottom one clips on to the body of the car and the second one fits over it tight.

Hey, sorry this isn't much help... but i do think there are issues to consider.. did you try a search?

Yeah, just check that it is sending a temp signal and that it seems to be right ... goes up as expected from cold. not worried about the age of the loom, worried about corrosion or connection at MAF (that particular connector gets it bad from the elements). I can't see why you can't go higher, just don't go stupid or you could blow things off... if there is a leak you won't make it to 9..lol..

check the temp sender unit using datascan, that might be having an issue. did you check the connectors... try the MAF one first... have you checked for vac / boost leak?

what have you done to diagnose it? to start with do an ecu check. then check and clean all connectors. check the air & fuel filters are OK (and or renew). check for correct resistance on coil packs & injectors. check that injectors are working OK. check for fuel leaks on injector rail and injectors. check TPS voltage. check timing with a timing light. check and change plugs if required. check for air leaks in vac system. check ecu temp sensor unit. if all those are done and you are still having an issue its worth putting it on Conzult or ECUTALK (or others) to see if there are any other issues. plenty of guides on all that stuff. good luck.

"Bought some hid 6000k kit" sounds ominous... please say (as above) that they are H3's.... however I think H1's can be uses in the high beam.... even though it's not ideal.

simple explanation of petrol combustion.. 2C8H18 + 25O2 ~> 16CO2 + 18H2O so with a bigger engine you get even more water, very noticeable in winter when it's cold...

Hi, yea, I do but not been playing with it much... that I know of: JeffTT (or Noz or Jimmer) is/are your man/men, he/they can advise on settings for performance off a standard engine.

Mmmm, you decide.... http://www.wesh.com/news/central-florida/osceola-county/-/17565894/19426822/-/xfv07tz/-/index.html?utm_source=hootsuite&utm_medium=facebook&utm_campaign=wesh%2B2%2Bnews%3Cbr

Mmmm, I hate it when the flux capacitor malfunctions..!!! :)

good question... and that would depend on the type of mods you have ..... but for standard a semi-synthetic 15W30 or 40 will do nice. 10 and lower are a little too runny and may cause some unwanted leaks.... (this is advice given to me by Jeff).

i'm so glad there is none here in Cardiff or in the south west...

is this any help.... http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.565 and always handy to have.... http://z32.wikispaces.com/Factory+Service+Manual

came across this on another forum. thought it might be of help if anyone was getting this issue. http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133226

all the best...

(as far as I know) I don't think the hicas has anything to do with it.... however the cruise control might not be on the NA one.... (but obviously not needed if deleted).

good save.. :)

I've used it and only a very silver looking finish.... "Chrome" would be a slight exaggeration... but for £8 it might be worth testing.... see how you feel..

Hi, even though I'm not a fan of red or that type of spoiler I've got to say that you car looks fantastic... its aggressive enough and has a large enough rear end to carry it off well. (lol.. not that I'm saying you arse looks big with that) ... :)

in behind the stereo console there is an earth connection down on the floor (hump), my auto aerial had issues when it came loose. have a look there.

yes... http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.417

Yeah, check the MAF, PTU, CAS and TPS connectors (and ecu temp sender unit connector)... maker sure all other connectors are secure and have no corrosion. and make sure all battery connections are good clean and tight. run diagnostics to see if any codes. and some light reading... lol.. How to solve engine hesitation and stumble problems. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/hesitation/hesitation.html http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.335 http://www.pexcom.com.au/z32cms/e107_plugins/content/content.php?content.488