DTA (UK)

Don't, for the love of God, look at ebay to get your injectors and chip! There are sooooooo many "genuine fake" injectors out there it is simply not worth the risk. Also, every chip I've seen advertised on ebay has always turned out to be a repackaged STOCK Nissan chip. Do yourself a favour and buy from a reputable trader. I can help source both Nismo 555 injectors and a DTA-Motorsport chip to suit your particular modifications. But please do not buy these items from ebay - you will regret it (FACT). Dan

Before you discuss this idea with anyone put it down on paper (date it at the top), send it to yourself via Special Delivery and when it arrives do not open the envelope, just store it safely. That way, if anyone every questions the authenticity of your idea/product you can prove when you had the idea. Believe me, I've been stung by this process once before and am still kicking myself for it. Then, before you let the cat out of the bag (so to speak) have the software developer sign a NDA (non disclosure agreement) ... this should be done with anyone you are going to discuss the particulars of the idea with. Also, if the software developer is part of a larger organisation but is doing this work "on the side" make sure there is a clear contract between you and the developer stating very clearly that he/she is not working on this project whilst in the employment of their primary employer. Any new idea developed whilst in the employment of a large organisation automatically transfers all the IP (intellectual property rights) to the employer. As for a software developer, I'm sorry - can't help you there but perhaps you can have a look at your local Business Link agency, they should be able to help you in the right direction. Good luck! Dan

I did exactly the same - stuck some bluetac onto the little switch. Worked a treat until the summer and it got bloody hot which caused the bluetac to loose its rigidity and the problem reoccurred. Got a new ignition barrel in the end (thanks W1NG! ;)) Cheers, Dan

No, the above are the fault codes as presented by the ECU when interogated by a Consul or ConZult diagnostic kit. The numbers Shunter originally enquired about are the actual part numbers as labled on the outside of the ECU.

Be very wary of the US supplied kits as they often state H3 fitment and then send you a HB3 fitment (which is not the same). Also, 4300K is not readily available (for aftermarket kits) in this country should a bulb fail and require replacing. You're better off buying a 6000K kit for which I can supply bulbs to fit most Chinese, Korean and Japanese manufactured kits (the connectors are not universal on these kits). Aside from the above, you'll need to add import duty/vat to the kit price (allow for around 22% plus £10~£15 handling fee for the agent). As of late customs and excise have taxed every single consignment sent to me from the US and Asia ... used to only catch every other consignment :( HTH Dan

I deal with Greenline regularly so let me know if I can help. Price quoted on their website is excl. of transportation costs, import duty/vat and paypal fees. Regards, Dan

Yes, correct. On a side note, I know the company who manufactures these (Powertrix) and alongside their suspension parts I am now their exclusive UK reseller for these strut braces (obviously aside from anyone who chooses to sell them on ebay ...) The braces were modeled on the official Carbing strut braces, which we also sell, but far cheaper. Both front and rear braces cost £145 each plus £10 p+p. If purchased as a pair the cost comes down to £275 + £10 p+p. Compare that with the price of a Carbing brace, £265 just for the front brace! You will require a new throttle cable cover with a cut-out which we can also supply at £100. This part is made from cabon fibre and is supplied with new stainless steel bolts. I do not yet hold these braces in stock but they are in stock at source so can be delivered in around 10 days. I may start a group buy in the next few days to generate some interest. Cheers! Dan

Received! Thanks Steve!

Sure mate - will do! Alternatively, keep an eye on the DTA-Motorsport section over in the Traders Forum; I'll be advertising them there the minute I've had the stock arrive! Dan

Who? - ME! ;) Where? - DTA-Motorsport (UK) How Much? - £99 (delivered) New stock due end of this coming week. Regards, Dan

Although the above the the "cleanest" install location it does make things complicated if you need to replace a ballast (ie you need to remove the headlight again). Fortunately it doesn't happen all that often that ballasts pack up but nothing is fail proof. My suggestion is to locate the ballasts under the nose panel. The ballasts come with fixing brackets which can be screwed into the bar under the nose panel quite easily. Our ballasts are fully waterproof so if you have a vented nose panel it should not make a difference.

OK - if you take the yellow connector off the valve then you're effectively disconnecting the ECU from the idle control valve - meaning the engine will settle to the preset base idle (which @ 650rpm is too low for a TT - should be nearer 750~800rpm). If the car then stalls when you rev it and let it settle it is very likely to be a dodgy idle valve. Best to take it out of the car, take it apart and give it a good clean. Reset the ECU as well.

That's not a bad price. I paid a lot more for my install about 6 years ago but then it has been completely reliable and trouble free. I recently saw a Cat 1 system from Cobra on ebay for under £100 and the chap wanted £150 for fitting. Didn't seem like a bad price either but it was a very basic alarm. Dan

Would be a good idea to reset the ECU as it was previously compensating for an air leak. However, it is more likelly to be a crudded-up (is that a word?) Idle Valve. All the dirt that goes into the plenum eventually ends up in the idle valve and quite often you'll find the spindle inside the valve has a lot of carbon deposits on it. This will cause it to idle strange. One way I used to check for a dirty idle valve was to knock it on the top with the back of a screwdriver when the idle is high. It the idle drops with each successive knock then you're quite likely looking at a dirty valve. You can take them apart and clean them but it's a lot of work. I believe a new valve from Mr Nissan is quite expensive ... HTH Dan

Yes, all their wheels are manufactured by Antera in Italy so high quality stuff!

They are talking out of their *rse. Have a look at the attached pic of the Kahn RS-C 2pc alloys I've got on my Zed (235/35ZR19 front & 265/30ZR19 rear). The biggest issue with their alloys is the centre bore which in most cases is around 69mm or bigger. Our Zeds take 66mm so make sure they supply you with the correct spiggot rings. The offsets they quoted are ok for use on a Zed. I think mine are ET35 front and ET43 rear but I'm not sure about those figures. Good luck - most of their alloys are like pieces of art! Dan

Bugger! Missed last night's episode ... Double Bugger! :mad: Anyone know if it is repeated or where I can download it? Love it and think it is very cleverly done. You never really know what's happening next and even as it is happening I often still don't have a clue! LOL :) Dan

We've got some "chav" kids who hang around on the corner where we live. Usually they smoke, kick the wall a bit and then p*ss off again. However, a week or so ago one came walking up the road with a rake and started raking the leaves up where they normally sit. I nearly fell off my chair when I saw it and thought perhaps I was wrong in my opinion of them. However, ten minutes later the scrote had raked all the leaves from on the corner onto my drive! When I went out to ask him to get rid of the pile he and his scrote friends ran off whilst kicking the pile of leaves into the air and further onto our drive! T*ssers!!!!! :rant: Took me 30 minutes (in the rain) to clear the mess up. Again, glad it wasn't rocks or bricks but still - they exhibit absolutely no sign whatsoever of intelligence or common sense. This country is in deep trouble if "they" are the future ...

What Smithy above said! ;) LOL!

Paul, It was a part that was originally fitted in Japan before the car was exported to the UK. All other bits were also upgraded at the time so it wasn't a matter of bad "upgrading". There are a few cheap "copies" of the SPL original adjustable upper arm floating around and it really isn't worth getting these. More than likely they ware copies of S13 or Skyline upper arms which do not fit correctly on Z32's without some modifications. Furthermore, the fabrication material is inferior and therefore prone to stress breaks. I really do suggest you seriously consider either the Powertrix or SPL arms we sell. You get what you pay for and both these items are the absolute best you can buy. Have a look at the website for price details. Let me know if I can help source these parts for you. Dan

Very nice! What sizes are they?

Not enough interest mate!

Thanks Steve, Your time and help has been greatly appreciated. I'll be in touch soon to continue our discussion. All the best, Dan

yes please - Thanks! Dan

Yes, I noticed that too. I'm just uploading the phpinfo file to my webserver now. Will get back to you in a second ... Dan