DTA (UK)

Ahh, hang on - I'll just do what you've just written. Thanks, Dan

Not sure if this is what you're after but creating a new php document in DW with just the text "this is a test page in php" in the body resulted in the following: Untitled Document This is a test page in php Would it be more time efficient if I just e-mail you one correctly displaying page and the incorrectly displaying page? Thanks for your help so far. Dan

Not got a clue but I wouldn't have thought so as the site was created about two years ago. Also, why would all other files display correctly except this one?

Yes, not the same as a genuine Carbing strut tower brace. I've just had a look at the e-bay pics and although the brace looks the business I wonder how strong the welds are as they are only on one side of the support tower (genuine Carbing braces are double welded for strength). However, for the money it looks like decent value! Dan

I've got some coming in about 3 weeks time. Get in touch with me to reserve/pay for yours as these tend to go quite quickly. Powertrix adjustable front upper arms: £215 plus £15 postage. Cheers! Dan

Hi Steve, Thanks for the response. I've followed your advise and found that PHP, PHP3, PHP4 are all associated with DW already. Unfortunately your advise hasn't helped. It's really bizarre because looking at the code in Notepad nothing seems to be different from any of the other files ... Thanks again though ... Dan

Hi all, Just a quick question. Most (99%) of the Smithy's Place website is done in PHP. I'm in the process of updating the site and am using DreamWeaver. So far so good, with the exception of one page. No matter what I do it just will not open in DW ... (the header/footer info displays properly but the rest of the page is completely blank) I can't see any difference between this page and every other page (which all open without drama). Could someone either tell me how to open this bloody page in DW or if I e-mail you the page could you modify it so that I can open it in DW? Many thanks! Dan PS - I can open the offending page in notebook and see all the code. Unfortunately I'm not a web designer and know bugger all about PHP so the GUI of DW is essential for me ...

Hi Nick, This is what I've got: Portercable7424 It is one of the best dual-action polishers on the market. I recently helped a friend de-swirl his black Gallardo with this polisher and the results were stunning! You'll need a transformer to operate the polisher as it is a US model (ie 110v), something like this: Transformer (750Va) The 750VA one will do nicely. Product wise you can go in many different directions. I normally use polishers and waxes specifically designed for use with polishers as the normal stuff you buy from Meguiar's is not suited for polishers. I get a lot of my stuff from: Performance Motor Care Best advise I was given was: preparation, preparation, preparation. Prepare your paintwork properly and polishing/waxing will be much easier. Also, do not apply pressure to the polisher when working it - the weight of the unit itself will do the work. There are many sites which detail the various processes a DIY detailer can use. Good luck! Dan

No problem - just let me know whether you want me to enquire as to price & availability for you. Cheers, Dan

Z1 (and quite a few other US based companies) do not accept foreign registered credit card payments. Lee, I deal with them on nearly a weekly basis - if you want me to handle the transaction for you I'd be happy to. Just let me know. You can pay me via credit card and I'll send payment over in the usual way to them. Will probably only cost you the transaction fees. Regards, Dan

I too can confirm that our chips are of the 28 pin variety. Get yourself down to SpecSavers! lol :D

In the absence of Mike Feeney, I've got a complete (ie 2x valves plus 5x hoses) set on the shelf. £69 + £5 postage. This is what you'd normally pay for a two-hose set. Cheers! Dan

I should have a quote and availability for these parts tomorrow during the course of the morning. I'll let you know. I may consider getting these hoses made in silicone - in the long-run it will work out cheaper than ordering from Mr Nissan (once the tooling costs have been recouped).

Beam pattern is dictated by the frosting on the headlight glass and the metal "beam definer" bar inside the projector. That means no matter what bulb you put into the headlight house, the beam pattern will always be the same.

How these companies can claim their bulbs provide "90% more light output" from a bulb which carries a rating identical to a stock 55W halogen bulb is beyond me ... Light output is related to the "lumens" rating which, for a halogen/xenon hybrid bulb (which this effectively is) will only ever be slightly higher than a pure halogen bulb. Another common "misleading" advertising angle for HID bulbs is that the produce "300% more light" than a stock halogen bulb. Wrong! The light is about 300% BRIGHTER than a stock halogen bulb but in actual fact the HID bulb will only put out about 35% more light than a 55W stock halogen bulb. However, because the light is much whiter (Xenon gas burns white compared to halogen gas which burns orange/yellow) it give the appearance that the bulbs are brighter. Light which carries a higher colour temperature (ie around 6000K for HID bulbs vs ~2500K for halogen bulbs) will reflect better off reflective surfaces such as road signs and road markings. That will give the appearance that the bulb is much brighter. Anyway - Philips produced the same type of bulbs as Orsam is now advertising and was made to amend its advertising to reflect the true difference between their bulbs and normal halogen bulbs. I will be ordering a pair of the Osram bulbs to do a factual comparison between a standard 55W halogen bulb, our Xtreme White 55W halogen/xenon bulbs and our 35W 6000K HID kits. I bet I know what the answer is going to be ... Furthermore, no matter how bright a bulb you put into your Zed, if your headlights and projector lens are dirty on the inside you will never put out more light on the road ... Just my 2P worth and all IMHO. Dan

Agreed - thanks Andy for confirming what I suspected. Am going out to see if we can get it started this morning and then take it (as far as it will go) to a mechanic/auto electrician to have the fault investigate. Cheers! Dan

Hi, As my car is now officially off the road until I can get the engine rebuild I have bought a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd - nice 4 liter yank tank! Took delivery of it today and all was well until I drove around the block (as you do). Car cut out and I only barely managed to come to a halt around the corner from a very busy main road. I was told by the vendor that the imobiliser has a mind of its own and would occassionally cut in and shut the car down. He was going to have it fixed next week (which he still is going to do) but dropped the car off today so I could have it for the weekend. He showed me a trick whereby you remove the ignition circuit fuse, lock-unlock the car, put fuse back in and hey-presto the thing starts. Worked for me the first time but 200 meters up the road it concked out again and this time no matter what I did the bloody thing wouldn't start. Called out the vendor and together we tried for over an hour (in the rain and darkness) to get it started again but no luck. He then fiddled with a sensor at the back of the engine and it started but then stopped again after 10 seconds. We've left it for the evening and will look at it again in the morning but I was wondering if anyone had any ideas what could be causing this problem? Initially we both thought the imobiliser and that may still be the case but I think the guy moved the crank angle sensor connection which made the car start (not sure if it was this sensor or something else). The engine turns over nicely but just doesn't spark ... I'm just not sure that a dodgy crank angle sensor would cause this ... BTW - You would not believe how heavy this car is to push to a parking space ... on a slight upward incline - it took four of us to move it! Anyway - any and all ideas appreciated. I am not handing over all the cash until this problem is fixed. Luckily the vendor is a genuine guy and has already said he'll get everything sorted at his expense. Otherwise the car is in very good condition for its age/miles. Cheers chaps! Dan

You can (aparently) contest the penalty fine if you can prove that the front bumper is incapable of accepting a normal UK-sized plate. There is some documentation with regard to this on the DVLA or Dept of Transport website (but I'll be damned if I can find it ... :headvswal )

Everything is possible if you have limitless funds available for custom fabrications. If you want something better than your R33 calipers then look for Porsche 993 Turbo calipers - these have been fitted to Z32 a few times without too much hassle and work 110% better. I think the Z06 calipers will be problematic because they will need to be pushed out too far (they are huge). I'm assuming you're talking about C5 Z06 calipers and not the C6 Z06 as there is no chance in the world you'll get those discs and calipers to fit. I don't think the 928 calipers are as good as the R33's you've already got. Also, keep in mind that if you push the limit with the size of the discs and calipers you are likely to mess up the ABS system. Point in case ... a chap I know with a huge (and I do mean huge - ie 376mm) AP Racing setup recently went into the back of someone because the brakes locked up without engaging the ABS system. Fabulous brakes but not good with the ABS.

Yes, I've done it about two years ago and love it! You'll need the dash pod but also the ventilation system ECU which is located under the dash on the drivers side (a real *rse to get to). HTH Dan

Hi Simon, The fuel filter does not need to be changed as regularly as say the oil filter or even the standard air filters. I tend to change mine every 15~20k miles but you can of course do it more regularly as they don't cost a lot of dosh. Do get a genuine Nissan filter and when you come to change it over you'll find a small plastic "insert" in one of the ends of the old fuel filter (I can't remember whether it is in the in or out pipe). Take this out and put it in the same place in the new fuel filter. I don't know what it's there for but as Nissan put it in there I'd like to think it's there for a good reason. It's an easy job to do yourself. Just make sure you take out the fuel pump relay (small fuse box under the bonnet near to the bulkhead on the driver side - remove the relay closest to the engine). Also open the petrol flap and remove the petrol cap to release any excess pressure. You can turn the car over a couple of times to get rid of any petrol in the lines but this isn't necessary as there won't be much anyway. Use plenty of rags underneath the filter to catch any spillages (and there will be some). If you haven't changed the fuel filter in quite some time may I also suggest you change the fuel pressure regulator and dampner at the same time. Again, not strictly necessary but it's preventative maintenance if they haven't been changed recently. All the best mate! Dan

Yes, my folks live in Dubai and we were there over Christmas last year. Really nice time considering the Emirates are predominantly Islamic. Lots of expats leave to go home but the atmosphere is still very pleasant. Can't beat the weather either. December falls in the "cooler" months which means an average temp of 24C and loads of sunshine! If my folks weren't going to Holland this year we'd be going there for Christmas! PS - may I join you in the "I hate Christmas" club? Can't stand that time of year!

Unfortunately, Yes ... still plenty of delays. Have been told that they are trying to keep up with the current post whilst clearing the backlog of post in a chronological order (ie, oldest post out first). I am still waiting on four parcels sent to me around the 13th of October. Two of them are via Special Delivery as well which was rumoured to have not been affected by the strikes. Can't claim compensation either as they suspended that for the duration of the strikes ... Barstewards! Dan

Hi mate, These are not difficult at all to fit but (as stated by silverbullet) you must get it set up professionally asap. I've got a couple of sets of Powertrix adjustable upper arms on order (roughly 10~14 days before they're in the country) which are slightly cheaper (£215)than the SPL ones (£255) but of identical quality. In fact, I've just sent a pair to Rob-300ZX to replace his knackered ones and he's most impressed with the quality of the Powertrix units. Let me know if you want me to reserve you a pair. Regards, Dan

Me too - Studley, Warwickshire - so only about 20 minutes to the NEC ...