ive recently changed my idle valve gasket as it was leaking, also done drivers side 02 sensor, now my car nearly stalls when pulling away, is jumpy when foot of the gas when cold, also nearly stalls when i put the clutch in from highis revs (revs drop right down then jump back up again)

 

now the strange thing is, the revs when ticking over can sometimes be low, then sometimes high (around 1700RPM), also ic can be low then it starts to slowly creep up

 

i didnt reset ecu or do anything else when i done the repairs, do i need to?????

 

when it stops raining i will get the consult on it

ive recently changed my idle valve gasket as it was leaking, also done drivers side 02 sensor, now my car nearly stalls when pulling away, is jumpy when foot of the gas when cold, also nearly stalls when i put the clutch in from highis revs (revs drop right down then jump back up again)

 

now the strange thing is, the revs when ticking over can sometimes be low, then sometimes high (around 1700RPM), also ic can be low then it starts to slowly creep up

 

i didnt reset ecu or do anything else when i done the repairs, do i need to?????

 

when it stops raining i will get the consult on it

 

Would be a good idea to reset the ECU as it was previously compensating for an air leak. However, it is more likelly to be a crudded-up (is that a word?) Idle Valve. All the dirt that goes into the plenum eventually ends up in the idle valve and quite often you'll find the spindle inside the valve has a lot of carbon deposits on it. This will cause it to idle strange. One way I used to check for a dirty idle valve was to knock it on the top with the back of a screwdriver when the idle is high. It the idle drops with each successive knock then you're quite likely looking at a dirty valve. You can take them apart and clean them but it's a lot of work. I believe a new valve from Mr Nissan is quite expensive ...

 

HTH

 

Dan

fookin ell, i knew it was gonna cost, does anyone sell them cheaper

fookin ell, i knew it was gonna cost, does anyone sell them cheaper

they are piss easy to clean tbh!!!

 

just remember which way round everything goes .

can they be took apart aswell as just being removed, ive just tried tapping it and nowt changed

 

remove3d the yellow plkug from the top, the idle hunted and then steadied at 650rpm, but if you rev it and let the revs drop it just stall's

can they be took apart aswell as just being removed, ive just tried tapping it and nowt changed

 

remove3d the yellow plkug from the top, the idle hunted and then steadied at 650rpm, but if you rev it and let the revs drop it just stall's

 

OK - if you take the yellow connector off the valve then you're effectively disconnecting the ECU from the idle control valve - meaning the engine will settle to the preset base idle (which @ 650rpm is too low for a TT - should be nearer 750~800rpm).

 

If the car then stalls when you rev it and let it settle it is very likely to be a dodgy idle valve. Best to take it out of the car, take it apart and give it a good clean. Reset the ECU as well.

so i need to set the base idle and see if it is any better????, so once i have the valve off the car can it be took to bits, or do just squirt it with wd40 or carb cleaner and put it back

 

do you have any diagrams of it just to make sure im doing it correctly

might be worth a try bud , did it on mine it made a small difference but its a probably take apart job

 

Clean in situ

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/157335.html

 

strip down off car

http://twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=technical&msg_id=920429

cheers for that bud, job for the weekend i think