AndyGP

I'm keeping the AC cos I am a VERY warm blooded wimp ;-))

...It depends on the guy you get - some of them are corporate whores - some of them like to help folks - it's a lottery man! It might be worth trying another on the pretext of touching up a patch on your car - that way he will have to get interested - or get lost! ;-))

BTW - I am not interested in changing my AUTO box for a Manual - I have S.A.W fitted and I am a big fan of paddle change. AndyGP

Can I run this by you... I have a large centre mounted intercooler and so therefore have lost the two side mounted jobbies. I plan to replace the main radiator with a 56mm standard alternative and run two additional 19 fin 60x20x30 rads in the space left by the intercooler delete. One replacing the existing Oil rad and the other for the autobox oil. I have checked this out and I have the space - plus it will look pretty cool through my custom front bumper side vents. I am on my third ZED/TT and I am looking for longevity (as well as performance) - so a cooler engine/gearbox all round will be a good start right? This is not a hugely expensive mod as I have aquired the two Thermex rads and SS braided lines for less than 50UKP. Just need a rad and some time. What is the general consensus of opinion? :rolleyes:

I had the same issue with my RED zed when I bought it many years ago - in the end I got one of those stone-chips paint touch up guys to match the colour and it turned out to be a porche Red. I bought a small bottle of touch-up for his time - so cost me a tenner. But it was worth it later when it came to more serious paint work afor alterations. Hope that helps. Andy

Thanks guys - just checking ;-))

Hi, Looking at the additional Oil cooler rad for my TT - most of the aftermarket ones seem to have a max pressure rating of 10 bar - is this ok? Andy :)

Jimmy - did you want to sell those old driftworks bushings - if so let me know. andy.gp@gmx.com Cheers. Andy

yep - but I thought I would test a couple of the alternative 'universal' variety first to see if they work/compatible! Anybody else used anything other than OEM O2 sensors?????

bump...

I do, and a scope? But the sensors are not on the car anymore as I [had to] cut them of prior to de-catting from the turbo back! I have access to 3 wire (universal sensors) one BLACK and two WHITE wires and I wanting to know the chances of them being useful! Cheers Andy

bump..

...Fit the ZED? :rofl:

When one looks at this picture of an O2 sensor on ZCENTRE it shows the black as the centre wire... http://www.zcentre.co.uk/shop/popup_image.php?pID=379&invis=1 But on this picture: http://www.zcentre.co.uk/shop/popup_image.php?pID=379&invis=0 It shows the White wire in the middle!!!! I'm confused!!! Andy

Thanks Jef - I thought ZED O2 sensors were Zirconia?

Black = Signal and the other two are HEATER Or have I got that completely wrong? I need a GURU:bow:

Smithy - do you know what each of the 3 wires on the O2 sensor (RED, WHITE & BLACK) actually do matey? Black=Signal Red=????? White=?????

Nick - how is it going - making any progress?

Shopping list - or as my Mrs would say - BUDGET! ;-))

Hiya Smithy - yes may well be real soon - so may pay you a call ;-)) So - would they fit or not?

Hi, During the process of changing/looking at new O2 sensors I found this - might help someone else so... I have not tried this yet - but according to Lucas - should work for all Zirconia sensors. The document is here: http://www.lucaselectrical.co.uk/catalogues/LucasLamdaXCB462_Full.pdf Here is a précis of the test.. Lambda sensors, unlike other types of sensor fitted to an engine, have an optimum performance life cycle, which generally lasts about 45 000 to 60 000 thousand miles. The decrease in performance happens gradually to a point where the sensor will become tired or lazy. The sensor still works but the reaction times are slow. Regular drivers of the vehicle will not notice this change. Testing a Zirconia Lambda sensor off the vehicle is quite easy, all you need is a vice or a similar means of holding the sensor, a propane torch and a high impedance digital multimeter. First check the general condition of the sensor if there is any sign of damage change the sensor. Now test the heater circuit for continuity, if the heater has failed change the sensor. now connect the voltmeter red probe to the signal wire (generally black) and the black probe to the earth (generally grey) and set voltmeter to .000 volts. Then with a propane torch heat up the tip of the sensor until it is cherry red. The sensor should give off a reading of nearly 1 volt in a few seconds. If it takes longer than 20 seconds to get a reasonable reading change the sensor. In the case of a 1 or 3 wire sensor the body of the sensor is the earth. (For wire colours see chart). One of the most misdiagnosed reasons for changing a Lambda sensor is when the vehicle fails an MOT on the emission test when the Lambda reading is high. This is not a measurement of the Lambda sensor but a calculation of the burn. High Lambda in this case is too much oxygen in the exhaust system; usually a pinhole in the exhaust after the Lambda sensor. Check if the exhaust is in good condition or has had any part replaced recently, and this will be the most likelly cause, not the Lambda sensor.

Hi Would this fit the ZED gentlemen? ;) This one is M12x1.5 mm turbo SS oil feed line kit with a 4AN fitting! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M12-x-1.5mm-KKK-Turbo-Turbocharger-Oil-Feed-Line-Kit_W0QQitemZ220375493108QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090311?IMSfp=TL090311234003r733

Hey Beermonster - the thread ihere sir - take a look - the link is in the thread somewhere. Hope that helps. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=123466 Best regards AndyGP

As soon as the prop is out of alignment - thats it - the begining of the end so to speak - so not much! And as soon as the rear gearbox mount is out - then that will ultimately start to effect your centre bearing (sooner or later). The vib's may just not be noticable yet - it sometimes is a good thing to take a ride in another ZED at some point - it's amazing what you can get used to without realising it!!

Thanks for the warm words that enthused me and kept me sane. :bow: The key was (as usual) getting the right tools for the job. A (5cm) deep 13mm socket had the last two remaining bolts out in less than 30 mins :headvswal So all in all a good 6 hours to get the four nuts and four bolts outta those pesky turbo's. But at least I had no issues with heads shearing or threads stripping thank god! The JAPSPEED cat back delete kit I bought off ebay has turned out to be just a brilliant bit of kit - fitted fantastically and the welding is pure art - I can reccomend. These are the Japspeed pipes I bought. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-TURBO-DECAT-DE-CAT-DOWNPIPE-EXHAUST_W0QQitemZ220357072336QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item220357072336&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1683|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318 Some Pikkies... If anybody needs pictures or description of the tools I used let me know - happy to help. :hyper: Cheers AndyGP