AndyGP

Hi all - long time no post ;-)) Does anyone have or know of some spare space in a workshop or garage or warehouse/barn or similar where I can finish working on my ZED? Happy to pay/share costs/rent or whatever. It's just fibreglassing and mild fabrication moving forward and I need to move my beast or dump it! Any help appreciated. Andy

Just thought I would share how I mounted/re-located my dual MAFs in custom 76mm inlet piping.. Take your MAF and place on 10"CHOPSAW - cut here... and here... (Observe take the usual safety precautions goggles/gloves etc.) Then chop twice across the length... - I used an angle grinder... You now have a unit that you can mount anywhere in your 3"/76mm piping just by drilling a 20mm hole like in this piece of scrap: I have fixed them with sealing mastic - removal for cleaning would be via a cheese wire and then re-stick with mastic afterwards. I plan on placing the particle gates elswhere in the line nearer the filter end.. ..They are easily removable from the MAF enclosure. I know some folks have discussed mounting MAFs nearer the TB's - this allows you to mount them pretth much anywhere and is a lot cheeper than buying these and introduing 2 more joins into the system! You could even mount them in a silicon pipe/connector piece :punk::clap: Your thoughts/abuse/comments appreciated as ever...

DOH! Still no word - can anyone help me out with a moby number please? andy.gp@gmx.com

...or better still Picasa v3 - freebie from google... http://picasa.google.com/

Hi Vijay - do you mean like a thumbnail viewer??? What do you want to do with them once they are on your screen? http://www.mindspring.com/~lsumberg/Dolphin/NickelViewer/index.htm

Thanks Jimmer - same hotmail address - or has something changed? andy.gp@gmx.com

Hi - anyone know if John is back from the Orkney Islands yet?? :boat:

Yeah lots - having real problems getting up enough positive mental attitude to jump out of a plane with my daughter this year as promised [for example]!!! lol :w00t: Thanks Gary - appreciated.

... Left that for 15 mins then added another coat - now left for a couple of days so that I can flat and buff. Obviously one could not use the above method generally, but if you have a difficult shape to CF into where you want tight angles and sharp corners, particularly as above... I could have done it in one piece, but the corners would not have been so defined and with the centre join - it would have been very difficult to get right I feel. More to follow soon. Let me know your thoughts. ;-)

Well I have been crazy busy with work (good thing), and any spare time I have had I have been dedicating to mastering a few carbon fiber techniques that I will need as I move on to complete my engine skins and some internal pieces. All high visibility. This included seaming/joining carbon twill a little like this \\\|/// I have started work on carbon-ating the slam panel (OLD PICTURES) - this piece that goes across the top of the rad, secures the rad/cowl and helps force air into the engine bay/rad: This piece will also possibly help re-locate the [non-standard] headlights. It's quite a complicated piece and I decided to do it in three sections - each section with a centre join down the middle with the carbon twill pattern being directional towards the outside of the car in all cases. So life got more complicated for sure - but only one person to blame duh!!! So three pieces/3 joins - here are the three sections: 1:/ is the 42mm strip/lip that sits over the chrome cowl. 2:/ is the face of that lip that sits on the face of the rad at the top. 3:/ is the rest of the slam panel. I have completed 1:/ and 2:/ and await some final fit mods to other related parts before I finish it completely. I have kinda created my own pre-preg (well look and feel anyway) by using 3mm coremat as the template for the carbon part, placing the coremat on some foil on a flat surface, laying down some resin (poly) and applying a piece of CF to it. Whilst in the green stage I simply cut the carbon (sharp scissors) out to the shape of the coremat template and then to final fit. I had already completed the first part 1/: as above in the same way as follows: So coremat cut to shape and wetted out: Carbon applied and pressed flat: 15 mins later: Test fit (the part is dry in this picture but still flexible and workable): By applying minimal resin to the coremat - the carbon piece stays flexible and really does look and feel like pre-preg - but of course it's not. So one side done, same on the other - overlap the joint and cut along the desired line. Clean up the off-cuts and we are ready to make this permanent! I brushed on a coat of surfboard resin to the part and the rear of the coremat and lined everything up. Hard to see here - but I have two joints of opposing twill pattern nicely lined up here: 20mins later the surfboard resin had done it's job - now time for a flood coat: Cont...

Cheers guys - I was being a dumb-ass!

Hi, As above - no battery at the moment but need to push the car around - how can I disengage the park lock on the auto box so i can put her in Neutral guys? :censored:

Any pics?

Thanks Gary - cake seems to be disappearing so must be good

This has been kicking around my workshop/studio too long - I have now completed it and short of adding the led circles for under the two vents it's ready to fit. I will just be using velcro to attach this to the two rail brackets. Rather moody shots...:alien: And it goes here: :wub: Oh and wifey made a cheescake and insisted I show it off as well... Sorry! x:devil:

Finally managed to get the look I have been seeking for the various vent areas in the engine bay that I have fabricated in Aluminium. I have now completed the tooling to make these raised mesh inserts in 30mm, 45mm and 60mm. This detail is on the fuel rail cover - not polished yet. There are 3 more in the panel above the rad. Let me know your thoughts... Not too shabby methinks :clap:

OK - window is out - took 40mins - it's 4mm glass, not 5mm. I managed to save the piece of trim vital to the project - that being the curved piece at the door edge - and it's in reasonably good shape for the re-install of the acrylic. The long top piece is not so good, but I believe I have enough of it to recreate a pretty good copy from readily available window sealer's, along maybe with some liquid rubber and/or a little bumper repair mastic. For anyone contemplating this job for whatever reason - I just used a small steak knife, some wooden wedges and about 10 sharpie's. And I simply placed the blade between the glass and the chassis and kept scoring the mastic until I was through, and kept going all down the door edge, and then along the top curved portion. The corners required more patience and power to separate the mastic - this is where the steak knife was pretty essential. lol When I had completed the above, I was able to wedge the window as far out as the top bodywork would allow me. Then it was a case of getting inside the car and again running the blade along the glass/chassis join to separate the mastic. Once the two bottom 'corners' were free - I cut off the three base clips with the sharpie and gently eased the glass out. Job done. I don't think this is possible without damaging some of the rubber to the point of no-return so bear that in mind before you start. Right - waiting for the 4mm acrylic and the fuel filler neck to arrive so that I can move on to the next stage. I want to try and recess the neck slightly into the 'glass' - so current plan is to make a 6mm copy of the original window in acrylic and correctly heat shape it so it is a carbon copy of the original glass. then cut a 5" hole in the 6mm where the filler neck is going, I will then mount the filler neck into the 4mm acrylic and place it in the oven at about 100 degrees. I then hope to remove the 4mm place it over the (baking foil covered) 6mm and allow it to flex to the correct shape whilst hopefully being able to manipulate the fuel filler neck into the right position through the 5" hole in the former. I have had a quick practice with 6mm and I think it will work ok. May take a few efforts but... Will post when I have something. Thanks for your help to date chaps. :clap:

Hi, Why not take the OEM rear speaker fronts/tops off and carry this design around so it's one piece guys? That way you have eye pleasing consistency and a more OEM kinda look. Instead of the original speakers still being visible - incorporate, incorporate. Just a thought! :punk:

Sorry matey - my fault not his.

Looks good - your a good man to know. Do yoiu run a shop or similar? Ooops that will get me banned - andy.gp@gmx.com

Be aware though that adding (real) carbon and sufficient clearcoat will add 3-4mm to your panel thickness at least and unless you have a black car will look really silly! If you have a black car - it will just look silly. IMHO If you buy stick-on carbon cloth then I give up completely. :biggrin:

Hmmm it says "Design for upgrade direct replacement: Nissan CA18DET or SR20DET" does not mention VG30DETT - so I would say not!

Handle lights should only activate when you lift the handle - normally and logically. Surely you would not want to drive around with your door handles illuminated like that all the time! It's probably not even legal and will get you pulled.

So your going to make a mould of Matt's wings in FG then make a carbon copy (pun intended) from the mould