Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

300ZX Owners Club

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

AndyGP

Dormant Member
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by AndyGP

  1. Completed this yesterday: Now working on the top slam panel so I can get that into carbon as well. few more pics: Thanks for your input and feedback to date.
  2. I will be leaving that for a week in the house for it cure properly before final trim, flatting and polish. (It might get another flood coat - not sure yet) :shocked: Personally; I have found that it is always better to final clear coat before final trim as then you will not get any edge fraying of the carbon. Sounds obvious - but have seen many people struggle with the edges because they don't do it that way! That's it for now.
  3. ...= Not much because of this... ...Snowy stuff Grrrrrrrrrrrrr!!! Anyway, did a little to the fuel rail in terms of rounding off the support tabs and polishing it up, and cleaning some of the lines. This will be chromed real soon after some final tidying and having the holes routed in. And the Fan shroud has been sitting waiting for all the epoxy captured nuts to go off for a week on the car to make sure it maintains shape and does not twist. Did some wet n dry at 1500 and then hit it with a couple of flood coats of my favorite surfboard resin: ...getting very close to done with this piece:
  4. Pete, Where can I get a list of prices/options sir? Or if you want to email me it's andy.gp@gmx.com Many thanks.
  5. I did similar to this last year and the led strip does not seem to be UV stable and has turned quite yellow - so keep an eye on that sir. Looks good.
  6. John - is the Emerald ready for the TT yet matey?
  7. And fully assembled: Final job was to clean the 'plastic chrome' from the fan grill and spray it with matt black engine paint, and paint the fan blades/unit red (of course) to flatten the whole thing a little. There will be a piece of draught excluder along this [Red Line] edge later: Some other random shots: These edges will be formed into the slam panel designed/capped off nicely. That's it for today - any comments suggestions always greatly appreciated. :taz:
  8. Ok - so I kinda left the fan shroud looking like this: Since then I have been concerning myself with the mechanics of fixings and fitment, and a way of making everything removable and serviceable in a sensible fashion. Life is hard enough in and around a ZED engine bay without knowingly making it worse! It's not that obvious, but I had made a raised area at the front/top of the fan shroud to home/locate the fan, and to better 'flow' the shroud into the slam panel and the stainless cover, couple of pics may help: This section will not be carbon, probably black, and there will be a ally/chrome border along the edge when the final trim goes on. Now to re-use my original stainless fan cover, I trimmed it and formed it to fit the fan shroud like this: The screws are temporary and there just to form/hold it in place - I have since replaced with rivets. So you can see where this is heading now. I have the fan attached to the shroud via captive Nuts that are epoxied in place. I have the stainless cover trim riveted on, now I just need a good way of fixing them together so they are only 2 pieces - now looks like this... Since I have the quick release 'skewer' clamps on my throttle bodies, I decided to go with the same for the fan shroud, remember the shroud is bolted to the rad, the rad has locators in the chassis, so the slam panel holds the 'floating' rad in place (as part of it's function). So I drilled for the skewer bolts and epoxied the locators and nuts in place on the inside of the shroud: Polished them first of course: ...
  9. If they are 5/16th bore then I would imagine around 450RWHP or more - but I am sure someone will come along and confirm or slap me ;-)) You can obviously buy much bigger injectors to fit the standard fuel rail but I don't know when exactly you are wasting your time changing one without the other, or both. My dilemma when looking to upgrade was that I didn't really think the 300Degree rails with the same old side (expensive) feed injectors were a very good solution. Just a slight improvement - and I wanted more if I was going to do it.
  10. Hi Mike - I looked at this option seriously before I went with the BDE - and at the end of the day there a few Personally, I would not want welded fuel rails on my car because of the potential for leakage and internal oxidization from poor welding technique. I would hope at the very least they will leak test them prior to shipping. The capacity or bore did not look much different to stock, or better than 300Degree. I do not like the WIN injector adapter bungs being loose, relying upon the injectors, then the fuel rail and its bracket to hold everything in place while also placing the injectors higher and further away from the port. This is a bit like stacking dominos and then balancing an elephant on them. Yes, BDE rails require modifications to the plenums and crossover for clearance, but once completed it is a worry-free, quality system with enough capacity to deliver 1000+whp of fuel easily - whenever your ready to do that. In short, I see the WIN rail as a bolt-on lover's delight, but I don't see it as being much of a performance upgrade over stock or 300Degree rails. BDE all the way for me - http://bde-performance.com Just my 10pence worth ;-))
  11. Fan shroud is coming along - awaiting cure and final trim.. Before knocking down with wet n dry at 1500 - then one final coat of clear and it's done.
  12. This is where I am today - spent a couple of hours... I have removed the two front clips and gone for a more 'low profile' look, rather than 'floating' the cover - I like it huggin the rails - looks more like a cover that might have been supplied with the rails if the rails were OEM - if that makes sense! LOL! I am probably going to round of the support 'tabs' (hence all the green ink) then I will polish it before deciding to add the holes/vents. Thanks for all the comments and motivation - you guys really designed this - I just put it together ;-)) Thanks again.
  13. OK small update on this project... Started to make the fuel rail cover today with some 22mm (id) ally tube and a piece of 4mm x 50mm ally flat bar. Quick reminder of the rough design/plan: Here is a pic of the rough ally tube. And with the Fuel Rail... I thought this would be quick n easy - hmmm One side nearly done: And the other side + a quick test fit... Added the front two rail caps that will hide the AN fittings and added a small end piece to 'close the bar off' visually.. That's it for today - lots to do still, need to add metal in some places where I have been a bit over zealous with the grinder, and then clean back and square everything off: Then finally cut the 2 or 3 holes and POLISH then chrome it: Getting there though... I will be using draught excluder tape on the inside/touch points to give the impression of the cover 'floating' over the rails. And to stop any chance of rattles, etc. Any thoughts comments always appreciated. :eyes::hurray:
  14. Not much time today as xmas (:santa:) has started getting in the way - DOH!! Managed to carbon8 the fan shroud - it just has a couple of light coats of clear on here. It all now needs to cure before I trim it and spray another 7 or 8 coats of clear. More on that later in the week... Two other likkle jobs; I have tasked myself with making all the screw caps in the engine bay the same (for some reason - maybe I am OCD?!?!) and so I have oil filler cap, and now Rad top-up cap the same but the new power steering reservoir was different so chopped the top off of it, then beheaded the spare matching cap, and welded those baby's together again. Came out OK: Before clean up: And after: Lastly - just made a couple of ally stays to keep the massive air filter where I want it! They will probably get polished and clear coated real soon. I will hopefully get to complete the lower fan shroud in the week maybe and will post more then.
  15. Update: As mentioned - I had concerns about possible hotspots in the top of the rad and I think the issue has now gone away - instead of fully blanking the end - I left a 8mm gap and modified the top part slightly so I have a similar air gap their also. So 97% of the Rad with be on full draw via the shroud and the remaining 3% will get a lesser draw but pumped air cooling all the same. I think it will be enough to cure my hot spot concerns. Here is the piece I took off the mould this morning trimmed down: Fits good - of course...: I gorilla glued it in place and left it for an hour - then pulled long strands from some fibreglass cloth and used them to join the shroud to the new end part permanently - example: Started to straighten/block up some of those lines on the slam panel today as well - starting to look good: Last job tonight was to make some flat fibreglass sheet that I will need to widen the shroud in places so that I can attach it to the rad. Piece of scrap hardboard, spray glued on some tin foil and put down 3 layers of 16oz CSM with a roller: cont...
  16. So now all I have to do is close the shroud off where it meets the slam panel. So - take a mold from the slam panel connecting end... This bit... Cover it in tin foil first... .. apply 7 layers of glass cloth in alternate directions per layer... ...don't forget to Roll.. Clamp when in the green stage and leave to cure fully. I will then glass this piece on to the shroud, and make it a sealed unit once more. Because the slammer panel and the shroud have to be two different pieces (for removal/servicing) there will be two potential warm spots in the top corners as per the red rings: These will not be cooled by the efan/shroud - they will be air cooled (or possibly by two small fans) and this is the flaw in my design I am afraid. Personally I do not think it will be an issue, it's an oversized rad, it's not a track car, and it/I live in the UK - so we only get 3 'hot' days a year!!!! Few more pics... Strip marked out awaiting curing/trimming. Shroud on the rad. Fan on the shroud: The whole thing:
  17. Been working on the efan shroud ;-)) As you have seen I have a top air/slammer panel that is in production and I have mentioned that the shroud would be incorporated into the slammer panel etc... This is the slammer panel.. Refresher.. So I started off making the basic shroud - it gives me an airpocket of about 24mm high over the entire radiators estate - should be ok - no room for any more. I just used scrap wood and some posterboard. And here is the result: I added two insets for the inlet and outlet plumbing: So now I have to design in my slammer panel - so I marked out the slammer profile onto the shroud... ...and cut it to fit - here it is mounted on the radiator... And with the slam panel in position - teaser... IT FITS! cont...
  18. Jimmy - you need on eof these now ;-)) http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=AC799616
  19. But I don't need it any more as I have a single piece flip front end ;-))
  20. Mine used to be red... (of course)! I powder coated it. Not sure if that helps but...
  21. Looks strangely like something I have growing in my workshop right now ;-)
  22. Ask for the tracking code - that should spook them...
  23. Are they based in Glasgow by any chance?
  24. This is an FMIC kit with pipes - they are pretty identical me thinks! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FMIC-NISSAN-300ZX-Z32-TWIN-TURBO-INTERCOOLER-KIT-89-96-/310237434227?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item483b979173#ht_1056wt_911 HTH

Important Information

Terms of Use

Account

Navigation

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.