nickz32

Cheers guys, I’ll upload some more pics later

Well I was supposed to pick up he Z today, however fate suggested otherwise A couple of days ago a very very careless eurocarparts driver parked next to the Z while it was out in the yard and opened his door onto my Z, marking and denting the passenger side door right in the middle of the panel. As you can imagine, neither the bodyshop or I were best impressed. So, today the Z went back into the spray booth to have the door repaired and repainted. After the baking process I decided to make use of the warmth and fit the OE Upper windscreen moulding (the one the windscreen company used was hideous). Annoyingly this is where we noticed the windscreen wasn’t sitting and flat as it should be and sits proud of the side moulding runners on the top left corner of the screen. There’s only one way to fix this, and that’s windscreen out yet again (hopefully for free). On a positive note, the Z should be ready for collection tomorrow and off for mapping on Monday

1. Craig+2 (booked) 2. Richard+1 (booked) 3. AndrewG+1 (booked) 4. Ianl (booked) 5. Joelyp 6. Coopd 7. TonyB 8. IanGreenfield 9. GSC (Gary)+1 Booked 10. nickz32 +1 (Booked)

Doh, although the ambiguous title of the other thread doesn’t help :sweatdrop:

Looks like the next Z won’t be a cross over SUV after all Hopefully it’ll have the looks and performance to challenge the new Supra with the developed version Twin Turbo V6 out of the current Q60 https://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-japanesecars/nissan-370z-successor-confirmed/37731 It’s like 1994 again!

I’m curious now, Andrew can you check mine please mate, pinged you my vin

Fairly sure the one I took off my car was the one on the right, but I replaced it with a earlier series alternator as there weren’t any lightweight pulley kits for the late style alternator (at the time, and my bearings were squealing like mad) I’m pretty sure I’ve seen both hitachi and Mitsubishi alternators for the Z

1. Craig+2 (booked) 2. Richard+1 (booked) 3. AndrewG+1 (booked) 4. Ianl (booked) 5. Joelyp 6. Coopd 7. TonyB 8. IanGreenfield 9. GSC (Gary)+1 Booked 10. nickz32 +1

Hate to disagree with your source on that one Andrew, but every ‘95 car I’ve seen (including my own) is blue glass. I’ve only ever seen Green tint glass on 1996 onward cars ***having read it and seen the source, maybe it’s a late 1995 change as I know my car is an early 95***

Returned to the bodyshop today to help with some wet sanding and compounding. Super excited now! All being well, I’m collecting her on Thursday. Hopefully I can get her in for its new exhaust and final mapping in the coming weeks

Yeah, but I’ll get some better ones tomorrow Also fitted a new OE bonnet insulation as mine was very tatty

Popped in today to fit my new RUCA’s. I’d decided to rid the rear end of the hateful Rose joints, so went for a set of WhiteLine RUCA’s as they use whitelines more pliant poly (black) bush vs their “race spec” poly bush (yellow) Finally, all the painting is sorted. The back bumper was back on and the front bumper is done bar the moustache, which will be satin black The wet sanding has also started, so well and truly on the home straight now!

Belongs to a chap called Joseph Topps

Happy birthday buddy

Obviously you wouldn’t use the OE crank girdle at those power levels, but Mitch also makes billet cradle caps (not sure if they’re part of the kit or not) that when tied down with the correct spec bolts have a proven record at holding ultra high power..... this engine uses them [video=youtube_share;TVnFU1iFVXs] I think it goes without saying, anything above 1000hp is competition level stuff, in which case it would usually be subject to frequent strip downs like any other ultra high hp engine would

Pricing is $6500 for the 1400hp capable kit (the one pictured) or there is the option to use a 300M material for the rods which boosts it up to 1700hp capable!!

That I honestly don’t know. I don’t think he’s specifically marketing it to compete on price. I’ll see if I can get him to post up on here to go into the specifics

I don’t know how many of you use Facebook and may have already seen this. There is now a new stroker kit on the market designed by Mitch at EP Racing. It uses a custom Billet crank, custom Saenz con rods and CP Pistons to take displacement to 3.2L, (the same as the Jun kit does) That particular kit is going into an engine for a UK customer (who, as far as I’m aware isn’t on this forum) Pricing isn’t publicised, but from the chats I’ve had with with I “believe” it’s cheaper than the Jun kit Nice to see new stuff still coming out for the VG30

Yes, you’re right, I’m being a pleb and not explaining myself. It would be Et5. However to get an 10J to fit on the front on a flush fitment AND clear the calliper, you’ll have to run an ET45 with a 20mm spacer. That would give you an equivalent fit of an ET25

simples ET+25 plus 20mm is an ET+45 (EDIT... ignore this as I’m talking pish it would be ET25 MINUS 20mm = ET5.... I explain what I meant below). However, it sounds like your spoke design of your chosen wheel is more of a issue than the offset Of note, I run Varrstoen ES2 (TE37 design) on at 18x9.5 ET+22 and have zero clearance issues on Evo X Brembo....

1) nope, not as simple as that every engine has marginal difference so will respond to modifications slightly differently. 2) yes an idea, but why wouldn’t you want to confirm that idea on a dyno? I’ve lost count of the amount of cars I’ve seen expecting X but actually getting significantly less due to previously unknown faults on the car 3) 99.9% of modern performance cars are subject to a dyno run before leaving the assembly line 4) yes there are. Diagnostics checks, compression tests, leak down tests, emissions tests, boost leak tests are all methods of checking an engines health. So is a dynomometer. How many times have we seen cars on this forum show a zero codes yet have a MAF that’s inaccurate or have a lazy lambda sensor. These type of marginal faults would show on a the Air Fuel Reading on a dyno run. A dyno is simply a tool that when used correctly is as good as any other diagnostic method in establishing the health of an engine In my mind, if you have any doubts that your car would have an issue with performing a short full throttle run on in any circumstance, whether on the road track or dyno, then it shouldn’t go anywhere near a dyno. The car has a fault, so use the other tools available and sort it. ANY car that is in full working health will have ZERO issues performing a run on a dyno. And IF it goes pop on a dyno the simple fact is that it was simply a matter of WHEN not IF it was going to let go.

Things like that are starting to get painfully expensive

Yes mate they will. I’m going to try and source either a new set or a vgc used set as mine are showing their age now

Well after the mayhem the weather caused, managed to pop over to the bodyshop. And I’m pleased to say the CSL wing fitment issues have been sorted. After lots of little cuts, flexing, re fibreglassing, filling and shaping, it now sits as it should The underside of the wing now has a bit more of a wave like curve to it, so technically it’s now a custom wing, but I’m happy with how it now sits. Bumpers are prepped and primed (forgot to grab a pic as was short on time) but it’s getting there..... ***EDIT*** Appears I forgot to post about the doors! So I managed to source a set of mint replacement doors. They were red, but they were always going to be completely stripped back to make sure they were spot on. I spent a day stripping the windows, rails, loom etc and putting them into the newly painted doors, so at least she looked a little more complete now (if a little dusty)