nickz32

Unless I’m being stupid........... £250?!

Yeah, PartBox/Co-Ord sport

Hmmm. Maybe these would fit the bill https://h-tune.co.uk/muteki-tuner-lug-nuts-closed-end/

The Rays Duralumin nuts arent Aluminium, it’s duralumin. Theyre stronger that steel ones in terms of clamping and thread strength.... and to be honest I wouldn’t expect anything less from Rays. But you still have to be careful with the (no impact guns) otherwise you’ll knacker ther finish

Peeps My Varrstoen lug nuts have seen much better days, so I’d like to replace them. Really, I’d like a set of Rays Duralumin red anodised nuts, but at £186 for a set they’re just too dam expensive. Ideally I’d like to stick with red, short, closed end lug nuts but not finding any that aren’t cheep Chinese tat. Recommendations please!

That’s a lovely example..... and a SERIOUS price!

You mention you have spark, so I assume you’ve tested a plug in one of the coil packs? (Guessing you would have mentioned if you had pulled a spark plug and it was either fine or fouled) If you’ve only started it up and used it for short journeys, it could be as simple as fouled plugs. Throw a new set in there (NGK Coppers will set you back all of £15). When you swap them out, have a look how fouled up they are.

Never seen those before. Interesting

I get that, but that’s surely why we use places like this, to learn more about the other options and techniques that are available. The crimps themselves for MIL/AV quality joins are fairly inexpensive. Yes, the tool itself is a reasonable expense, but the quality of the joins are precisely that, quality. The point with solder is, yes when properly executed it is a very good conductive join. HOWEVER solder IS brittle and is liable to fracturing. A quality crimp is stronger that the wire that is being connected. That’s why every single pin in every single plug in your factory loom is crimped onto the wire, NOT soldered on. I’ve never had you down as the “that’ll do” British Leyland approach kinda guy Simon?

I’ll have to agree with Joel on this one. A proper crimped fitting is better than a soldered joint. You’ll never find a solder in a motorsport wiring loom. HOWEVER, I will caveat that with the fact PROPER crimps and crimping tools are expensive. The stuff you can buy in maplins doesn’t get close to the proper stuff. A bit of light reading for you https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/solder-vs-crimping/

Any chance the club is able to get a stand should their be enough interest?

Is the club aware of the Japanese Performance Show on 19th August http://www.japaneseperformanceshow.co.uk Doesn’t appear to clash with any other events that I can see in the calendar

Was aiming to go, but work got in the way. Wasn’t the MCN show next door aswell?

Sooooooo many nice wheels!

Love a bit of community spirit.

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Just give Mike at MJP a call, I’m sure he’ll have some

OEM or WIX for me to.

I think I agree, I’m just so used to it having tints. Throw in the change of spoiler and I’m struggling to recognise my own car

Small update. Glass went back in today. For the first time in my 10 year ownership of this car, I won’t have tinted windows. Looks odd! As you can see in the second pic, and my other recent thread, I’ve had to source a new set of doors. During the strip down stage we found the only gremlin I wasn’t aware of. The bottom of both the drivers and passenger doors were suffering with tin worm issues This doesn’t seem to be a known rot place for the Z, but I can only assume this has occurred during the 3 years the car was off the road and stored outside under a cover. Initially it just looked like it was the outer door skin where it folds over onto the frame. But once they began cutting the rot away it became apparent that it wasn’t economically viable to repair these doors. Bugger I sourced a new set of doors off FB which were in very good condition. The only downside is that I’ve now lost the side impact bars that were fitted to my original doors #weightsaving Nose panel, targas and wing mirrors were in the process of being painted when I popped in. It’s looking on course for all the painting to be finished this week and the final stages of the job (panel alignment, wet sand, polish) should take place next week. The potential for it to be back on the road by the end of the month is becoming apparent

I used Roland Alsop Engineering for all my engine machining during my rebuild. Anything but local to you, but they’re a top top engine machining company. http://www.rolandalsop.com

And another of the same car Found a pic of it saying “For Sale £1999”, but that image dates early 2013

Welcome to the club. Tidy example you have there. You got any significant plans for it or you looking to keep it as is (which is very nice) and just enjoying how nice a stock Z can be?

Again, still interested. Just have to see how things play out over the coming weeks. Would love for this to be the first outing for the Z

Looks like your going to have your hands full with that one buddy. One thing I would advise though, the seats that had moss on them, I’d strip the covers off them. The moss spores will have pentrated into the foam of the seat and will eventually grow back.