nickz32

A what now? It’s TIG welded by someone ive used many times, it’s solid!

All easy jobs to sort mate. Won’t be long before you’ll be enjoying your Z again. Well done bud

All finished (Bar a bit of wiring)

Picked up the new billet fuel tank lid. Mocked up the fittings, and lined up the new pump hanger for it to be welded into place tomorrow. Just need to find some longer bolts to boot it down

Toight like a toiger

EIX’s are iridiums, BKR7E are coppers and perfect for your spec Si

Bang on the money. The colder the grade the more recessed the electrode is into the plug, but as you mention there is a trade off. Because the electrode is more recessed, it doesn’t create as clean a burn at idle, low load and low RPM, but risks over heating or blow out at high rpm/high boost scenarios. From memory, I started experiencing spark blow out issues at around 18psi on 6’s and 23psi on 7’s. The other thing to consider with EIX’s (iridiums), the tips CANT be cleaned. Once they’re fouled, they’re junk. Coolers on the other hand can be. Yes, iridiums last longer but I can get a set of grade 8 NGK coppers for £11 delivered, unlike £60 for iridiums.

I see him fairly regularly, and he does fancy another Z (especially since I’ve told him I’ve seen them fitted with hand controls). He’s got a nice little collection of cars including a 240Z, KPC skyline, a old Chevy truck and a couple of others.... I keep kicking him in the stump and telling him to pop on here.... although he may still be on the Banned list?

[video=youtube_share;gA5EwwSuiSc]

Si, why you going for Grade 8’s.... you only need grade 6’s at your spec. I didn’t have any problems with grade 6’s until 17/18psi

Belated Happy Birthday buddy

Gave her a bit of love with some Meguairs Ultimate paste wax

Signed up. Day after my bday, so may be a little delicate but I’ll be there

Hope they have decent WiFi at the hotel, just realised the Champions Leauge final is on the Saturday Night #AllezAllezAllez

Think you need to start a new thread for a different question there fella

Personally, I’d pull the engine out. Even if the internals are fine, it’s a perfect opportunity to replace the 25+ year old seals around the engine as well as access otherwise difficult to reach hoses for the Power Steering, fuel lines etc and refresh if needed, saving you from having to strip the engine down a second time in the future after a oil leak etc

12th would be better for me personally, gives a couple of weekends gap between that and Simply Jap to do non car stuff with the family

It’s been on the cards for a little while (developing dunsfold), it was only a matter of time before they got the plans through

New bulkhead fittings turned up today, so fingers crossed the custom tank lid will be ready for the end of next week. In the mean time I noticed I had a little play on the hicas rack tie rods, so a new set of those have been ordered from CZP and fitted in time for its next MoT before the lakes trip

Check your PM

You talking BBS LM reps or NISMO LMGT reps?

I know some people would actually do that!

Well it appears Lady Luck May have shined on me. The car was due to go on the dyno yesterday, but prior to doing so, I noticed a smell of fuel at the back of the car. Initially I thought one of my AN fittings had failed, so I replaced it with a spare. I took the car for a test drive only to find I still had a leak when I got onto any form of boost. A bit of investigation later and i find that the weld on my AN fitting for the feed outlet has split. One exhaust flame on the dyno could have sent the whole thing up in flames! So rather than modify the OE fuel tank lid further to accept AN bulkhead fillings, I’ve decided to have a custom fuel tank lid machined and drilled to use AN fittings. All being well, it’ll be ready for the dyno on the 11th May... otherwise I may end up missing the Lakes trip (which I’ll be gutted about!)

And why the devil not?

You’ll have some friendly competition this year buddy :P