nickz32

Sorry everyone, I completely forgot I posted this thread on this issue a while back https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?187449-Issues-whilst-conducting-HICAS-diagnostics This new thread probably describes the symptoms better than the previous thread. I’ll be checking PS solenoid voltage and HICAS rack solenoid volatge later this afternoon. However, given that every single bit of data on the screen grab is wrong, Says engine is idling at above 1500rpm - ENGINE IS OFF Vehicle speed of 11mph - VEHICLE IS STATIONARY 7323 deg I’d lock yet neutral position sensor is active I suspect the HICAS ECU may have failed. I can’t seem to find any similar instances of failure though

HICAS and Power Steering Issue: Car is a JDM 1995 Series 4 TT with the ELECTRONIC Hicas, not the hydraulic. Ok, so for a little while I’ve been suffering with the usual Heavy Steering issues. This issue appeared shortly after fitting my Haltech Plat Pro. After a little while longer I noticed my speedo was dropping out, which I assumed was my kph to mph converter. Switched converter, speedo returned to normal function (and is as accurate as I would expect when comparing to GPS speed) but power steering symptoms persisted. A further symptom arose where it now feels like the HICAS is in “high speed mode” and feels like the back wheels are turning in the same direction as the front wheels and stopping the car from “pivoting”, even at low speeds. I ran a CONZULT diagnostic and got some very odd readings. I wondered if the Haltech was causing issues with the Conzult system, so switched in my original 16bit ECU and got the same results (pictured). When I took this picture, the engine was NOT running and the vehicle was stationary. The sensors in the HICAS diagnostic appear unresponsive to change. I’ve checked CONZULT functionality, and everything else I can test, such as solenoid function, work fine. I believe conzult is functioning properly. Anyone got any ideas

Well after several emails, phone calls and complaints I finally managed to pursuade Michelin to replace both my rear tyres. Further more, I managed to get them to agree for me to have a different tyre. I’d decided that aesthetically I didn’t like the 35 profile tyres as they were a bit balloony. Unfortunately, they don’t make the Super sport in 30 profile. So I managed to get a set of 295/30zr18 N4 rated Pilot Sport 2’s. These were meant to arrive on Monday, then Tuesday..... then the courier somehow lost them so they didn’t arrive until this afternoon, which meant I missed today’s dyno slot. Sometimes I wonder if this thing will ever get mapped! Anyway, I decided to bring it home to enjoy this glorious weather, even if it means staying off boost. It safe to say she still makes my willy tingle Just waiting for a date for next week for more dyno time

All purpose cleaner mixed to a 1 in 4 ratio with warm water and a soft bristle brush for anywhere that’s painted. I also find it helps if you have any rags, dip them in really hot water and then cover the area you want to work on. Leave it for a few minutes to soften the grime up before going at it with the APC. If that doesn’t cut through it try a dedicated tar remover (autoglyms one is available in most Halfords). Anything else use a stiff brush. Personally find Gunk drys out really quickly

Post a pic so we know what sort of grime we’re talking about mate

Already have, he sold it a while back

Ditto with Series 4 I see you’ve got the CC stork though.... that’s the last bit I’m trying to hunt down to retrofit cruise control to my car.

I’m curious now? Figuring out plugs for the late steering angle sensor?

Interesting. Would that expansion tank have fitted where the OE one would sit? (Or was that that you meant by inside the wing is a no goer?) It’s something I want to look into (clearing space being the intercoolers) If you need any help getting it back on the road, give me a shout

Well I’ve spoken to Michelin directly, and they’ve asked me to take the tyres back to the retailer for inspection/warranty claim.. I’m going to push for both tyres to be changed, given that the failure has happened inside the structure of the tyre, it’s not going to be visible from a visual inspection of the thread (unless it has started to go and we haven’t spotted it yet). Fingers crossed for a positive outcome and some new, less explody, rubber

I only glanced at the other side, but looked pretty similar

Yeah, nothing obvious apparent. The rollers were re knurled about 6 months ago

There was no signs of any wheel spin on the dyno, as that was one of my first thoughts around the heat being generated. Given how grippy the knurled rollers are, I would have expected a lubricant issue fairly early on during the dyno session, but given how hot they got I think it would safe to assume it would ha e been burned off pretty quickly I’ve messaged and tweeted Michelin UK asking about a warranty claim. Even if I’d done a mahooosive burnout at 45psi tyre pressure, I wouldn’t expect to see that kind of failure until the tread was well worn. As you can see from the pic, everywhere Bar the delaminated part looks pretty brand new. Here’s hoping Michelin are willing to replace them (not holding out though, luck doesn’t appear to be on my side at the moment)

No slip at all, still at wastegate boost pressures at 360ish HP

Well, I’m in a fairly down beat mood. Yet again, another tyre failure. This time a 50 miles of use Michelin Same side as the last failure. No signs of it catching or rubbing anywhere on the tyre. 32psi when cold, 45psi hot. None of us (myself or the tuner) have any idea what on Earth is going on. He’s never had a failure in 10 years of tuning, never mind two on the same car on the same wheel Yet again, exasperated :(

Crikey, didnt expect to get a bite THAT quickly! :wheelchair:

Just need the Holy Grail of “which spark plug is best” thread now

Anyway, who’s bloody idea was it to post ANOTHER oil thread....... jeeeeeez

:lol: :rofl:

This is true, and without wanting to go back and forth, the OE oil viscosity ratings are designed around a VG30DETT in completely stock form and stock boost. Secondly, yes why it relates to ambient air temp, the inference is that in hotter environments engines will run at a higher temperature and to have an oil that doesn’t run too thin in those temps. Visa versa with cold climates. Given the extra heat that is involved in running 1.6bar of boost that my particular engine is running I wanted an oil that was as thermally stable as possible at higher engine oil temperatures. Both on track and during VMAX I saw oil temps of around 115c, Granted I now have a larger oil cooler, but thermally stable oil at that temps was something that encouraged me to my particular oil choice.

Re longevity of other surfaces, I bowed down to Mitch’s knowledge. It’s the oil recommends for all his forged builds. Re track, yup. I’m looking into paint protection film at the moment, but it won’t be going on track until that’s sorted

The oil choice came as a result of advice from Mitch @ EP Racing and that I run on the loose side on main and big end bearing tolerances. The combination of running a thicker oil and looser tolerances ensures I get sufficient oil coverages and lubrication of the bearing surfaces when I’m hammering the engine on track. If I lose a couple of HP and MPG, then that’s a trade off I’m happy to make for the sake of the longevity of my far from stock engine �� Further more, the workshop manual states that use of a 20W50 is acceptable for higher temps, so I struggle to see why a heavily modified VG30 isn’t suited to a 20W60 Esther synthetic oil

I personally run Motul 300V 20w60. Yes it’s on the thick side, but temperature is the enemy in these cars and when I want to unleash all hell and fury at full boost, I don’t want my oil to be thinner than a wannabe cat walk model. Further more, the odds of me driving or starting the car up when it is below -5c are pretty much nil If every else is boosting their post count, I may as well get in on that action aswell

Then make the trip for one of the days. Would be good to catch up mate

Hey Buddy, good to see you floating around still. I’d say back to basics on this one. When you say it cuts out, does it misfire or anything or does it simply drop revs until stall? What do the plugs look like? Sooty? Wet? Normal? (Checking if you have good spark) When cold does it run on all 6? When it does run warm, does it run on all 6? Bubbles in the coolant when it’s running/sweet smelling exhaust fumes or any other symptoms of HG failure? Fuel supply- is it getting what it should? Pop of the return hose and hook a hose up into petrol container. Put 12v to the pump for 60 seconds and measure the amount of fuel delivered. Multiply by 60 and you’ll get your l/ph (should be around 250lph for a OE pump from memory). Anything less, you’ve got a supply problem, so look at the filter then the pump Fuel Pressure- see if you can get a fuel pressure gauge from somewhere. Pressure should be around 34psicat idle with the vac hose connected to the FPR, 43.5psi with it connected.