nickz32

Si, why you going for Grade 8’s.... you only need grade 6’s at your spec. I didn’t have any problems with grade 6’s until 17/18psi

Belated Happy Birthday buddy

Gave her a bit of love with some Meguairs Ultimate paste wax

Signed up. Day after my bday, so may be a little delicate but I’ll be there

Hope they have decent WiFi at the hotel, just realised the Champions Leauge final is on the Saturday Night #AllezAllezAllez

Think you need to start a new thread for a different question there fella

Personally, I’d pull the engine out. Even if the internals are fine, it’s a perfect opportunity to replace the 25+ year old seals around the engine as well as access otherwise difficult to reach hoses for the Power Steering, fuel lines etc and refresh if needed, saving you from having to strip the engine down a second time in the future after a oil leak etc

12th would be better for me personally, gives a couple of weekends gap between that and Simply Jap to do non car stuff with the family

It’s been on the cards for a little while (developing dunsfold), it was only a matter of time before they got the plans through

New bulkhead fittings turned up today, so fingers crossed the custom tank lid will be ready for the end of next week. In the mean time I noticed I had a little play on the hicas rack tie rods, so a new set of those have been ordered from CZP and fitted in time for its next MoT before the lakes trip

Check your PM

You talking BBS LM reps or NISMO LMGT reps?

I know some people would actually do that!

Well it appears Lady Luck May have shined on me. The car was due to go on the dyno yesterday, but prior to doing so, I noticed a smell of fuel at the back of the car. Initially I thought one of my AN fittings had failed, so I replaced it with a spare. I took the car for a test drive only to find I still had a leak when I got onto any form of boost. A bit of investigation later and i find that the weld on my AN fitting for the feed outlet has split. One exhaust flame on the dyno could have sent the whole thing up in flames! So rather than modify the OE fuel tank lid further to accept AN bulkhead fillings, I’ve decided to have a custom fuel tank lid machined and drilled to use AN fittings. All being well, it’ll be ready for the dyno on the 11th May... otherwise I may end up missing the Lakes trip (which I’ll be gutted about!)

And why the devil not?

You’ll have some friendly competition this year buddy :P

1. Bigh 2. Alic 3. Craig (am staying in Romsey Fri&Sat night, so can do a club drive out/Haynes/Bovington meet on the Saturday if any interest?) 4. tom1990 (if im loud ) 5. AndrewG 6. kgonzokia 7. nickz32 +2

Welcome back buddy

Err, more like fancy seeing you here!

Swapped in my OE ECU, no change However today I ripped out the replacement speedo converter I fitted a few months back and low and behold, the power steering is back to normal I can feel the HICAS working as per normal Oddly though, the CONZULT diagnostics is still giving the same readings. As I’ve never been able to get my car into hicas diagnostic mode with the whole left right of steering wheel brake pedal 5 time gumpf, I’m now starting to wonder if I have always had some form of problem in my 10 years of ownership and never really known about it

Well I’ve been through the workshop manual and can’t find a single thing wrong with any of the inputs (steering angle, neutral position etc etc)

So in this process, section B, I’m only getting 0.2v to pin 36

Throw a bit more data into the mix: Just had a look on the engine tab on Conzult (with stock ECU in place). On that tab, it has vehicle speed as 2mph (I’m still stationary at this point without the engine running), but HICAS is seeing 11mph Also, with the engine running, I’m getting 13.5v going to the plug of the steering solenoid 5.5ohm resistance on the steering solenoid

No, only the FSM that’s online (which is ‘93?)

I for one actually like it..... when it works