ive found this on a yank nissan forum if anyone wanted to read it
First i would like to go over our mount kit
a)the mounts are double sleeved chromemoly, tig welded, with a steel eyelet that houses a urethane insert. Mounts are are significantly gusseted and reinforced to ensure that they can handle any amount of power that you would ever want to throw at them.
b)It is necessary to be able to have a small amount of welding done to attach the mounting plates to the inside of the frame rails. These are straight line welds and can be mig or tig.
c)Engine crossmember needs to be modified. The factory crossmember is rectangular shaped across the middle. Across the middle section the top and front walls need to be cut out with torch or plasma cutter. New metal must be welded in in the shape of a triangle with the downward slant towards the front of the engine bay. Also, the lip on the front bottom grinded back about 1/2 inch. This service will be available through us although is very doable at home. The crossmember is then spaced down from the frame approx. 1/8 to 1/4 inch using washers around the 4 mounting bolts.
d)We will be offering a custom sway bar for this application. The bar is hardened and tempered chromemoly steel and is very strong and very very light. this is a direcy bolt on piece.
Now on to other mods necessary to complete swap
1) Transmission
a)parts needed: 1 300zx tt transmission, 1 rb25det transmission, rb25 slave cylinder, rb26 flywheel(supplied with motor), clutch of choice(we recommend a custom rps double sprung max clutch that we can supply )
b)attach bellhousing from rb25 tranny to the tail section of the vg30 transmission. The internals of the two are identical except for the input shafts. The rb25 input shaft must be used to compensate for the longer belhousing(any tranny shop can perform this for a decent price)
c)this tranny allows the use of the stock 300zx shifter, driveshaft, tranny crossmember,and all tranny wiring.
d)this tranny is a key element for correct placement and angle of the motor in the engine bay
2)WIRING
a)Wiring is fairly straight forward and simple. A dropping resistor pack is necessary to be wired in because of the low impedance injectors. Other than that there are only a few wires to power up the harness. This will be explained in more detail to those who wish to purchase the kit.
b)ALL factory gauges will work
c)alternator,starter,oil sending unit all use stock 300zx wiring from body harness
3)CORE SUPPORT
a) on my car we made the center section of the core support a removable piece bolted together with a plate on either side
b)this does NOT compromise structural rigitity in any way. When bolted in place the core support is as strong as it was before.
c)it does however give you ample room to work on the front of the motor when removed.
4)RADIATOR
a)Radiator must be placed between the headlights. This required cutting a bit if metal to make room. This is not difficult and took me 20 minutes with an air saw
b)The radiator used is a BeCool bouble pass radiator 31/2 inches thick with a 15"spal fan bolted on with an aluminum shroud.
c) small L-shaped brackets must be made to hold the bottom of the radiator in place tha come off of the front crossmember(once again, easy to do. Just bend some flat steel stock, and drill some holes)
d)This setup is proven not to overheat in the least little bit in 115 degree heat. It is very efficient
5)ECU
Stock rb26 ecu can be used but be aware that the maps are made for japanese fuel which is higher octane than ours. It is recommended to use a standalone such as the power fc D-jetro or the aem ems. These two ecu's allow you to eliminate the mass airflow sensors and a lot of piping and run off of map sensors. The car runs and idles every bit as good on map as it ever did on maf.
6)INTERCOOLER
THis is basically the preference of the owner. The sky is the limit, However crazy you want to get with it,
7)EXHAUST
Exhaust must be custom made. Sigle or dual. If you already have a cat-back you can use your existing rear section and fab a downpipe and mid pipe with splitter.
8)OIL PAN
you will need an rb25 front sump oil pan to be fitted. It has to be modified slightly to fit the block where the oil pickup tube mounts to the block. The pan must be cut open pushed out and rewelded shut to allow clearance. small amounts af metal will have to be added to close the gaps where it is pushed out. Very understandable when seen in person. Nice little afternoon job. We will offer this service as well.
9) SWAP PRICING by us at SPEED and SOUND
If the customer wishes to have us perform the swap we have come up witha figure of 18k for a complete turn key car ready to drive. This swap includes
1)motor installed with stock internals
2)single turbo w/ manifold and tial waste gate
3)Standalone ecu with a base tune(dyno tuning extra)
4)all creature comforts cruise, power steering, a/c if desired
5)full suspension including tein coil overs and hicas elimination with some adjustable arms
6)moderate sized front mount intercooler with piping and bov of choice
7)alignment
8)full exhaust(customer decides single or dual)
9)bearings checked for wear and replaced if necessary
Please note that if you source your own motor, we are not responsible for the condition of the motor internally.
We are almost positive that we can also get the stock twin turbos to work as well which would obviously decrease the cost.
INDIVIDUAL MOUNT KIT PRICING
we are going to release the kits at the following rates
1) mounts and brackets alone $750
2) sway bar $425
3) modified crossmember $450 (250 if you supply us with your crossmember)
4)complete kit $1400
5)tt.net group buy price $1300
These are quality pieces that far exceed the strength to get the job done. So you can sleep easy knowing that everything will be top notch.
PROS AND CONS OF THIS SWAP
PROS 1)absolute simplicity to work on compared to vg30 motors.
2)oil pan removal 25 minutes
3) turbo removal 20 minutes
4) timing belt change 1.5 hours
5)stock 8200 rpm redline
6)you have an rb26 in your car
7) the sound
8)the rarity
9)extracts power more easily than vg with less money
10) stock injectors are 440cc instead of 370cc and top feed instead of unreliable side feeds
11)big weight savings
CONS
1) Some parts are more difficult to get and have to wait a bit longer
2) Small trade off of low rpm torque for high rpm horsepower
3) I personally can't think of any more
I have had my car on the street now for 10 months and have not had a single hiccup or problem with it yet. This is a rock solid kit that performs well and does not compromise handling or ride quality.
