jap.slapper

Balls to the Jap slapping skills then, that'll be you needing a sawn off mate....problem solved

Sorry that wasn't a very good pic with the end cap still on

Ok, well this is what I've got Like I said before, the series 1 should be fine for what I've got planned The AEM part is a 3.5 bar MAP sensor with a screw thread the other one was supposed to be an AEM part (though there are no AEM markings on it) it's a 5 bar MAP sensor. I'm assuming the 3.5 should be fine? with regards to the AEM Lambda/Uego sensors, I assume that they just replace the current sensors mounted on the downpipes?

You did say before, it's just that those Labree down pipes that I've just taken off the LWB look to be much longer than what's currently on the shortie' (I'm assuming they're stock on the shortie') I just want to be certain before I get it on the ramps and start swapping downpipes.

Cheers mate

So is it a relatively straight forward fit then mate?

Just to clarify, will LWB TT downpipes fit dierctly onto a SWB TT? thanks

MAP sensor fitting I've done a quick search but can't find too much info on it I understand that you can do away with the MAF if you go down the MAP sensor route but what does fitting a MAP sensor actually entail?

I'm looking to replace all of the stock vacuum hoses in the zeds engine bay with SAMCO vacuum hoses (blue). I'm just wondering, what size inner diameter hose do I require? There are a variety on ebay ranging from 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6.3mm, 8mm and 9mm thanks

I've got 18" Volk Racing CV Pro's on my shortie' at the moment with 9" up front and 10" on the rear. Now these Volks are 'really' lightweight 1 piece rims. The problem is that despite the rear rims fitting perfectly (currently with 275 Pirellis) the front rims (235 Pirellis) require 25mm spacers in order for them to sit flush with the arches due to their offset of ET +45. They are 3 piece but I plan to re-paint them in matching white enamel so they shouldn't look too out of place The 3 piece rims are off an S14 drift car and as such one of the rims is a bit battered. The outer lips on both are a bit dented and one of the 9" inner rims is cracked. Therefore the plan is to use the mint inner rims and outer rims from my old black recently refurbed CV Pro 3 piece split rims (8" and 9") and cross deck them onto the replacements with the better ET +20 offset (the old black ones are also +45mm offset so again are not suitable without spacers) I have 2 x 8" inner rims that would bolt straight on and I have 2 x 9" inner rims that would bolt straight on I also have 4 x outer lips that are immaculate and will bolt straight on So....here's my question: Is it the centre piece of the 3 piece split rim that determines the offset? if so the above should work?? cheers fellas :thumbup1:

Judo from the age of 4 and have trained in Muay Thai with Petchyindee for several years now, and still dabble in MMA/BJJ with guys from my previous place of work, some of which take it very seriously. Injury has forced me to take it easy for the last 18 months though. I will also say that Krav Maga is a very good self defence system that can be adapted to suit the individual, again only dabbled in this through work. Two of my three children go to Karate now, and have done since they were 4 years old. Both succesfully passed their latest grading last weekend with Central Dojo Hereford, good for discipline even if certain aspects are a little bit questionable for real world application. As said previously, go along to your local leasure centre and enquire about the various classes and disciplines that they cater for. Go along and watch a class and if you like what you see ask if you can attend. Most places will offer up the first few classes for free just so you can see if it's for you.

£60 isn't too bad, though as you say that was a few years ago so has probably gone up Still worth doing though

Fair one mate, I think I'll go for inside the bumper anyway as there'll be less chance of it getting knocked off or damaged

How much did he charge to do your plenum if you don't mind me asking bud?

For a second there I thought you were going to finish off with 'going cheap, are you interested' but still, good to know that the hoses all fit well :thumbup1:

Cheers mate, but I'm looking to fit a Koyo or Japspeed rad aswell. Truth be told I'm quite pleased that the stock rad has broken as I can justify to my wife, why I'm 'investing' in an 'essential' new upgraded rad :wink: I will pop up for a brew in the near future though and likewise if your down Hereford way

Cheers mate

I'm struggling to find a sandwich plate for the zed that will fit this size AN connectors. The pic below shows braided hoses to fit a regular sized Mocal sandwich plate (bottom) and the larger hose and connector for the ARC cooler (top). This cooler came off a Time Attack BNR34 GTR, even the hoses themselves are massive.

I'm talking about his zed obviously.... In their latest edition Jap Performance mag have run a full length feature on TOTB X. Just behind the green Scooby of Rob Wakelin, in the background, is a white zed just wondered

The plenum off my other engine is polished and powdercoated and to be fair it's a pretty good job (what is it they say about polishing a turd???anyway I digress...) What I want to do is change the colour from the current silver powdercoat to a shade of blue similar to that of the SAMCO hoses I was wondering if anybody could tell me, what would be the best course of action here? does the plenum have to be sand blasted and then re-powdercoated blue or would a simple rub down and re-spray suffice? thanks

Not really a kick in the nuts as I was going to upgrade the rad on the shortie' anyway I saw a similar issue highlighted on a recent thread where the top connector on the stock rad had deteriate over time and eventually had gone brittle and broken away. The piece that's broken away on mine is still in the stock upper radiator hose so it won't be causing any dramas later on down the line I was in the process of fitting my new SAMCO hoses, then figured that if I was going to have to replace the rad anyway I might as well hold fire on fitting the lower radiator hose (still need to fit jubilee clips obviously) What I wanted to check was whether the dimensions (besides thickness) of the Koyorad/Japspeed rad were different to the stock rad and whether the SAMCO lower rad hose would still fit. Last time I had a Koyorad I had a Z1 hardpipe so have never used a SAMCO one before and as such wasn't 100% sure advice please

Wouldn't mind your input on these two options for oil cooler location In the bottom of the front bumper as discussed previously to recieve good airflow or Bosozuku style fixed to outside of the bumper not exactly zed purist but a bit different and arguably more effective, if a little impractical thoughts please

I had someone do something very similar when we put the camper up on ebay last Summer. We had recieved a few offers before the end of the auction close to the price we were hoping for but descided that we would let the auction run its course. We ended up with a bit of a bidding war between 3 bidders until the auction ended with the camper having achieved a very good but fair price. Emails and details went back and forth for several weeks between us and the winning bidder, until eventually he said that he had no means of getting to my house from the train station. So naturally I offered to collect him from the station. After much "I'll have to see what I'm doing over the next few weeks" type of excuses, eventually the buyer sent an email to the effect that it was too far to travel and the only way he could justify the trip was if I knocked £700 off the price of the camper!!! We 'politely' declined :excl: by this stage the other bidders weren't open to a second chance offer as it had been so long since the auction ended, resulting in us losing out on a sale Shortly after my wife took a phone call from the guy again competely out of the blue, along the lines of "Would your husband accept the price of the winning bid on ebay minus the cost of the train ticket and fuel"......my wife advised him not to phone back as I was not best pleased, to put it mildly Ebay weren't interested

I drilled out a few spot welds and then used a hammer and chisel to pry it off. Probably not the best way to do it but it worked.

Welcome back mate