jap.slapper

Rather than start a new thread asking how to go about fitting a Greddy turbo timer I figured I'd just jump on the back of this one and ask for some info basically when I bought the shortie' off Marty it had an alarm system fitted with a turbo timer already built into it. The trouble was, the alarm was uber sensitive and kept going off with even the slightest amount of rain fall or when people walked near to it. I got the distinct feeling that the neighbours were justifiably less than impressed and it was only going to be a matter of time before the complaints started to flood in not to mention the fact that I was having to sleep with the key fob next to the bed, ready for when the alarm went off at 1 O'clock in the morning, and again at 2, and again at half past 2 etc. So at 5:30 the other morning when it went off for the tenth time that night I ended up going outside with a Gerber, popped the bonnet and cut the fookin' wire this doesn't seem to have caused any dramas other than the fact that when the ignition is switched off now the engine keeps ticking over for about 5-10 seconds and then cuts out rather than the minute or so previously, also the lights on the dash remain on for about a minute and then switch off. The central locking still works fine. I want to fit this spare Greddy turbo timer that I picked up a while back but just wanted to clarify how to go about fitting it It was advertised with a 300zx loom already attached so I assume that it should just be 'plug and play' from the pic below, can anybody tell me if this is actually a 300zx loom? if so am I right in saying that it should fit near the ignition? cheers fellas

Yeah I thought as much So effectively you could make a 10 second run but still 'lose' to a guy who's just made a 12 second pass cheers bud, I thought I was going mad there for a second

No real relevence to the video clip but bare with me here fellas..... When going head to head down the 1/4 mile, lets say (driver A) gets a good start on green and is off the line well before the other driver (driver B) who has a howling start. After wheel spinning for a second or two eventually he (driver B) gets traction and breaks the beam (his time now starts!), he covers the ground significantly faster than (driver A) did but obviously crosses the line second in that instance (driver A) wins as it was a head to head, and he was first across the line.... however isn't it possible that (driver B) could have potentially been faster and covered the same 1/4 mile distance quicker than (driver A) Therefore, potentially (driver B) could have set a new class record despite crossing the line after (driver A) had completed his run, all be it that he covered the distance in a quicker time..... just something that I was wondering......:blink: :blink: :blink:

Some people can handle firearms......some people get handled by the firearm! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XfMtXdUQiFk

Japspeed: Are you guys likely to produce a rear lower brace also?

Why was Gonzo driving your girlfriends Focus on the A11?

That's sold it to me then ^^^^ Japspeed rad it is cheers bud

There you go Andy, call dibs before someone else does Are you not fitting it then Marty?

That Greddy fmic's a really nice piece of kit to be fair bud, are you still running those Z1 smic's?

Cheers Andy It's pretty mad really, I sold off a load of surplus parts off the LWB tail end of last year and now find myself trying to source exactly those parts again for the shortie' :hammer: I've already bought back a set of big smic's, I'm looking for an upgraded rad after selling my KOYO (either Koyo or Japspeed), I need some new intake pipes (either SAMCO or hard pipes....I sold both), I need some new Samco hoses for the smic's, I sold my Z1 radiator hard pipe and SAMCO hoses for the rad.....I'm looking for a HKS twin induction kit after selling mine.....what a tit!!!! bloody zeds!

Oh yeah I appreciate that but surely the inlet could still be relocated this is a NASCAR rad that is configured the way that I mean

Didn't realise that you could check any near-mis speeding offences online. Apparently if you're slightly over the limit (ie. 34 in a 30) you won't get done but it still logs the event on a central database. More than 9 times within a 12 month period and you're buggered, on the tenth time you will get done even if you're only 1mph over!!! Sods!!!! You can check your VRN against the database to confirm how many times you've been pinged http://www.driftworks.com/forum/redirect-to/?redirect=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.i-database.co.uk%2F

Not sure you're allowed to run on the motorway mate :thumbup:

Cheers mate the other thing that I've been wondering is with regards to the layout of the zed radiator. There's obviously an inlet and outlet on the rad but why is the one at completely the oposite end of the rad, requiring the long hose from bottom right to top left? Surely it would make sense to have both inlet and outlet in the top left corner of the rad so that there is minimal distance travel to the engine and less chance of getting snagged by the fan or collapsing through heat. I've been looking at a few NASCAR rads that have this exact setup

What mods did you have on your scooby mate?

It would appear that I've started to buy everything that I sold last year all over again!!! Anyway my question is: What are the pros and cons of using a set of quality sillicon pipes (eg. SAMCO intake pipes) over equivelent hard pipes (eg. injen) and vice versa same question for radiator pipes and upgraded smic pipes cheers fellas

Abflug....ooh, that ain't gonna' be cheap bud Wouldn't surprise me if that panel was knocking on for £400+ knowing their prices though to be fair I'm sure it's effective

Honda NSX-R - 18.2 seconds! Kinda' makes you realise how we've been suckered into the whole F&F "10 second car" mentality

Tell me about it mate, I'm expecting a parcel from Japan (a single Bride seat rail, so not that big that it should cause any major dramas). It was sent on 23rd July. I've got the details of where and when it was despatched in Japan and can see clearly how efficient their postal system is compared to ours, as it had gone through several departments within 24hrs, and left Japan within 48hrs. I'm now waiting on HM customs to figure when they are going to release it to me.......:cursing:

I saw this zed the other day whilst flicking through JP, that's a nice colour mate and I really like the Volks that you're planning on sticking on it

I'm just fabricating some brackets for it now. I'd forgotten how cluttered it was in the nose of a zed and of course the stock bumper can be a tad restrictive for air flow. Hopefully mounting the cooler right up front in the lower opening of the bumper will eleviate any cooling issues in the future Then I've got to sort the rad and intercoolers, so no doubt I'll be asking more questions very shortly cheers mate

Cheers bud, that's what I was thinking :thumbup1:

My shortie' is currently still fitted with the original small Jap spec oil cooler. It appears to have worked fine this summer but with a few choice mods on the cards shortly I want to upsize the oil cooler as a precaution. At the moment I don't really want to be fitting sandwich plates, relocation plates etc and am looking at the simplest way to fit this cooler (below). The braided hoses fitted to it are huge, AN12 or AN14, and I want to plumb it straight into the stock oil lines/hoses. The braided lines are obviously screw type whilst the stock rubber hoses slide on and held in place with a jubilee clip type fastener. - Does anybody know of a connector that will enable the AN to be used on the stock hose (ie. with a small section of rubber hose between etc) or will I have to cut one connector off the braided hose and slide over the inner rubber house, holding in place with a jubilee clip * I hope that ^^^^^ all makes sense...? (or is a sandwich plate the only real option)? I think the design of this cooler will work well with the stock bumper cheers

Yeah I've found that as well despite not actually driven a single mile, though my DW kit hasn't gone rusty

Cheers fellas, very helpful