AndrewG

Here is another picture, this time with the correct rear spoiler fitted!

Needs must Ian, they don't come up very often.

I would give into the temptation - TK3 is a lovely colour!

One for the AGM then Gary.

So much nicer!

Great video, nice deserted country roads!

6202240P93 is marked as interchangeable with 6202240P90 (different model date ranges). Can't see why the holes wouldn't be there. https://nissan-europe.epc-data.com/300zx/z32/2954-vg30dtt/body_front_roof_and_floor/620/62650S/

62022-42P28 looks to be the unpainted part# https://nissan.epc-data.com/fairlady_z/gcz32/6033-vg30dtt/body/620/62650S/?frame_no=GCZ32-521756

Try Kraftwork near Chelmsford, they have worked on five Club cars to date. They are very busy though. Does your car actually need a respray? Could a paint correction/detailing session do the job? https://www.facebook.com/pg/CarBodyRepairsChelmsford/photos/?ref=page_internal https://www.kraftwork-chelmsford.co.uk/ Provided the engine is in good condition then 350-380bhp is reliably achievable with basic mods to up the boost to ~14psi. The VG30DETT engine is over engineered with forged crankshaft and rods (not pistons though) and with a boost controller and revised ECU map will safely take the increase in power. Talk to Jim@PZ to go through the options available.

Really? I must have read a different version of the WA to you Richard. The version I read is the polar opposite to that statement.

Best wishes on your Birthday Chris!

I use this, it includes petrol.

This picture of my carbing strut installed gives an idea of the clearance available above the struts. The bar just clears with the bonnet liner in situ.

These should do the trick, ask the seller to confirm: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Injector-Pintle-Caps-Fit-Bosch-Denso-X4-Pack-/153189485828 They measure pintle shaft size of 7.8mm, hole size of 2mm and a length of 13.8mm. You can check this with your injector.

I've no plans to "preserve in aspic" - the car will be used and enjoyed as before.

Welcome to the Club James! Lovely part of Canada you live in.

Popped over to the bodyshop yesterday to see the progress with 1547. Both doors are now off to get the best possible prep before painting. It is much easier to see defects when the doors are horizontal and catch the light. All the glass is now off the car. The stock "stone guard" finish is being removed which is a somewhat time consuming on the front and rear bumpers, but the end result will be worth it. The bodyshop was very busy yesterday so the car was moved outside for me to take a few pictures. Nice to see the car again.

You don't need to source the 28 pin DIL socket from the US, they are commonly available here in the UK. You will need to remove the stock EPROM from the ECU printed circuit board and install the DIL socket which can be tricky if you are new to these things. If you are, then I would suggest that you have it done for you. Personally I would go for the SZ chip, so long as they can supply the map you are after.

Do you know which circuits you will be going to this year Pete?

The bodyshop has posted on FB lots of pictures showing the progress made to date with the re-spray. These are just a selection.

So after 21 years of ownership the next stage of my journey with the Z has have finally started when the car was stripped down and shipped off for complete glass out re-spray at the Club's favourite bodyshop. The garage feels *very* empty! Later in the year the car will undergo the final stage of significant development in my ownership with the "bolt-on" engine upgrades I have been collecting together over time. More about that later on. My goal is for the car is to be OEM+ in the sense that the modifications and enhancements made to the car have always been carried out with the overriding aim of preserving as much as possible of the original character and identity of one of the best sports cars to come out of Japan. I like to think that the car will look and drive the way the engineers at Nissan given free rein could have built the car without production constraints getting in the way. Built in November '93, 1547 was the penultimate RHD car built for the UK market out of a total of 1548 cars recorded in Nissan's FAST database. It may well be the last as so far I have found no record of 1548 being imported and registered in the UK. I bought the car back in March '98 from Howards Nissan in Weston-super-Mare. The car was first registered in May '94 and owned by Nissan UK. My journey with 1547 started with this advert in Auto Trader and I became the second owner. Fast-forwarding to the present, I took this picture as a memento when I last took her out for a blast back on a sunny day back in February this year. The photo is deceptive as to the condition close up. Unfortunately after 25 years there are numerous chips, scratches, shopping trolley dings and poor re-sprays (most of which happened before I bought the car from Nissan). I know how the car will end up looking as the bodyshop has also repainted several other well know cars in the Club to an exceptionally high standard. Can't wait! Loading up. I plan to update this journal with the details of the modifications I have made over the years to 1547 with pictures, descriptions and my personal observations of the results of making those changes. I will also include references to the resources and companies I have used to help me make decisions on what to do with the "bolt-on" engine upgrades planned for later on this year.

I don't have any experience of the Mishimoto rads other than they look very similar to the Koyos and are generally cheaper. This is the Koyo in situ in the car. The stock bonnet strut brackets are swapped L/R so they clear the end tanks and notched to grip the radiator top lip.

Quite a common problem - the plastic fracturing from stress fatigue and/or overtightening the clamp. It's one of the reasons I went for an all aluminium radiator (Koyo).

In metric sizes I trust? But you are right so long as the hex socket hasn't failed.

g64-1