Tudor...

Not really a big job, case of dropping the exhaust, prop shaft etc. then removing the gearbox, clutch, flywheel, pulling out the old seal and popping the new one in (sounds easy when you put it like that!) The oil seal is about 15 quid, but the job is kinda labour intensive if you don't know zeds I suppose... Maybe 4 hours labour ish, I could do it in that on my drive, but I've got removing the gearbox down to a fine art now... Edit : If it's a manual, you'll want to replace the spiggot bushing too, only about a fiver, not sure if you need to, but I always do...

That would be very handy if you could find the info mate, something i've also been meaning to do for ages as my kph/mph converter has always played up, plus when I put the NA rear end on, gonna have some fettling to do to it...

And me! haha

I didn't bother either, but if you are leaving it and not bothering with it, then you'll need to check your timing with a strobe, there's a how to in the FAQ section, and you'll want to set your timing to 25 degrees BTDC when fully warmed up, as it is normally 15 when in neutral, then advances to 25 when you put it in gear, if the neutral switch isn't connected it'll stay at 15 all the time as it will think it's always in neutral...

Yep, it's electronic timing, not mechanical timing, worst that'll happen is it will run shite, if yours is an auto or it's had a manual conversion AND the neutral switch HAS been connected, it should be 15 degrees BTDC, if it has had a manual conversion and the neutral switch has NOT been connected, it should be set to 25 degrees BTDC, all this being with the engine fully warmed up...

You'll be running in safety boost mate if it's throwing those codes up, you'll be chuffed when you sort it and you start boosting properly :-) A 1 Megohm resister in the ECU side of the loom and probably a clean up of the temp sensor connections (front top hard water pipe, 2 sensors on it, one for ECU water temp, other for dash water temp gauge), if you clean up the connections on these, and sometimes you may need to flatten the rivet on the sensor to gain a better connection, and an ECU reset, you should hopefully get yourself out of safety mode, makes quite a difference!

Nice one pal, happy days!

Maybe leave the battery disconnected for a couple of hours, just to be sure it has reset...

Yeah, my thoughts too, the senders use different grounds, but the gauges share one, can't remember if I tapped into the radio loom, or ran a separate one from the chassis, I shall investigate. I just presumed the oil pressure sender was playing up, but when I noticed the water temp doing the same thing at the same time, must be a ground issue.... Cheers...

Ditto^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :lol:

I've got autogauge smoked water temp, boost, and oil pressure, and recently, my oil pressure gauge has been playing up, a tiny blip of the throttle and the needle just shoots straight up in an instant, then eventually drops straight back down, but is very twitchy, I had put it down to a faulty sender, but then my water temp gauge started being weird, the needle would suddenly drop too low when fully warmed up, and was twitching up to proper temp and back down again, with exactly the same rhythm and movement as the oil pressure gauge needle, deffo not a coincidence, could it be interference or a ground problem? Cheers, Tudor...

I'm pretty used to it now, not that much different to use really, well, it is, but not really, if that makes sense, just looks different and a few things are in a different place. There are 1 or 2 little things which could be improved, but they are still ironing it out, like when I click on notifications, I'd like to be able to click on new message or something to write a new message, but, it's not the end of the world...

Crikey mate, bad times indeed, happens to the best of us, things will get better pal, they always do, chin up...

Go on then matey, pm us your details....

I think that's a quality idea, I would clock my car and pay next to nowt :)

How much do you want for this matey?

Not for me really, I prefer the mostly stock look, some nice wheels, and a subtle spoiler, and lots of little tasty things like removing the stone chip etc. Although there are some highly modded zeds out there which are very tastefully done, but to be honest, most of the others are sheds, in my opinion of course, but it makes no difference what anyone else thinks, it's their car, it's a bit like seeing your mates bird, she might have a face like a bag of spanners, but he loves her dearly and he's reet happy! I'd still think she was fugly and laugh at him, but it doesn't really matter :)

Seen that pic before, dog rancid.

I'll get on it tomorrow matey, dirtytudor @ hotmail . Co . Uk

Hahaha, too true, although seeing as I built mine, nowt ever happens :) There are better options than zafiras tho me thinks....

Jesus christ! That is bad! Gonna keep my arse out the sun then, don't fancy it cracking like that....

If the air con is removed, is there a way to stop the revs changing when it thinks the air con is on? Is it just a case of unplugging the iav or aac valve? (or whichever it is).... I have no belt on it as it snapped, will be removing the lot in the future as it needs re-gassing anyways... Cheers, Tudor...

Meant to quote you....

how much do you want for that matey?

I've got one you can have for a tenner posted, this one, just need a bit of tubing, and Ideally a live to light it up as it's back lit..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTOGAUGE-52mm-SMOKED-FACE-TURBO-BOOST-GAUGE-BAR-/220987904731?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3373e7d2db#ht_958wt_1185