Tudor...

There really are tons to choose from, but the kit you want is H3, if you were to just buy standard halogen bulbs, the import uses H3C, but this however is not applicable to HIDs, so any H3 kit will do, the best temperature is 6000K, and up to you if you get 35w or 55w, I have 35w and they are great, but a lot of people go for 55w (brighter), so I would go for H3 6000K 55w... Hope this helps...

Already done pal, yeah is as simple as peas, all rings through, will check if there's a feed coming from the plug tomorrow with some thin pin ends for my probes, with the switch connected and the hazards on, stick em in the wires, if yeah then summet just needs a fettle somewhere...

Cheers Graham, that's how it is now, yeah, resistor is on it, doesn't work either polarity tho, will examine further tomorrow, has never worked and the bulb is fine too.

Impatience got the better of me, but it turns out it doesn't work either way round, haha, typical, having a gander at the switch now. Well, nowt wrong with the switch, will get my meter on the plug tomorrow see if the feed to flash it is present, can't be tho or it would light up, eeeee.

My car isn't with me, but the switch is, it's only a few hundred yards away, but it's raining, and I'm lazy, 50/50 chance of getting it right tho!

Does anyone know which of the two pins for the hazard light switch tell-tale bulb is positive? Just about to bung a led on it... Cheers, Tudor...

The thread inside the ball joint is just for the end plate to screw on so the ball joint can't 'fall out of the hub' (yeah, like that's likely to happen eh?). They are an utterly royal pain in the arse tho, I managed one using the grind off the end and bash it through method, but for the other side I removed the hub (easier than you think IF you can get the big nut off the end of the drive shaft, if you really can't, you can undo the drive shaft from the diff, just mark it so it goes back on it the same place) and took it to my mates and used his hydraulic press, was off in less than 5 minutes... You could also try grinding off the end and using an air chisel/hammer to knock it out, would be easier than swinging a lump hammer about... No idea about the HICAS end as I've never seen the electric set up...

I'll be there, getting my japfest virginity rodgered :)

hahaha :lol:

You click on the little green box on the top right of the post window :)

Mine also does this, but it goes once the box has warmed up, and I did hear that this is a bit of a zed box trait?

Me thinks I should get some reputation points for that :lol:

I'm only guessing, but could be to cover up a hole where a pod/gauge cluster has been?

Mike Feeney at MJP in the traders section for the gasket/s matey, top bloke, and any motor factors for the hose really, just get the correct inside diameter with quite a meaty wall water hose, not dead thin silicone hose/vacuum hose...

Have you got your handbrake on? If not, you may have to rotate the disc so the little hole is at 6 O'clock, then using a flat head screw driver, wind in the adjustment for the handbrake so the shoes release the disc...

Not heard of that mate, but it does make some sense.

There's no harm in splitting them, as long as you replace the O ring if possible, my seal kit for the front came with new ones, but the rear kit didn't...

Good stuff, keep us posted mate :)

Yep could have.... And the later models actually came with less stuff!

Oil will come out yeah, I get an aerosol can lid and wrap gaffer tap around it till its a snug fit, then whilst the gearbox is all still bolted up, remove the prop centre bearing to chassis bolts, watch it tho the prop is pretty heavy if it falls on your head, doubt any if much oil will come out the gearbox at this stage, shove yer bung of choice in the end of the gearbox, get a trolley jack under the rubber thingy at the back of the box (if manual) or a piece of wood across the sump (if i remember correctly) if auto, jack it up enough to take the weight of the gear box, undo the gearbox to chassis bolts, slowly lower the back of the box, the whole engine with tilt backwards, be careful not crush anything against the bulkhead with the engine, you should then be able with some long extensions be able to get to the top bell housing bolts, don't forget the top left (passenger side) bolt has a ground going to it, then you should be able to man handle out the box, then you should be sorted matey :)

Just thought I'd share a little thing I did, and it is little, but I like the little things :) Basically it's just covering the bolts for the throttle cable cover, I had some rubber sheet lying about, around 2.5mm thick, I found a 12 point socket with the correct size inside diameter, and simply squashed it in the vice with the rubber sheet to press out little rubber discs, which I then simply pushed into the holes, nowt special, but all the little things make your engine bay look neater.... Pics :

Unfortunately not mate.... Inside 2 (intake) are a rubber gasket, Outside 2 (exhaust) are liquid gasket, and buy good stuff, or you'll only end up doing it again...

Yes, that's the PTU (Power Transistor Unit) Series one is known for failure, but series 2 (which ellodave has) is very reliable...

As above really....... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDi-electronic-boost-controller-EBC-R-free-shipping-2012-Hybrid-Version-/230726828540?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35b86401fc#ht_5683wt_952

I'm seriously considering putting an NA subframe/diff on my TT, and just wondering what I could get for my TT rear end, it has all 4 HICAS ball joints just replaced and only driven a couple of miles, and has all been off the car, angle grinder wire brushed good style and all painted in gloss black smooth hammerite, you could eat you dinner off it, how much do you think I could get for it? I understand it wouldn't be much normally, but as it has all new ball joints and is all painted, it may be what someone is after... Cheers, Tudor...