Tudor...

I did mine just the other day, the top right corner of the flap was just touching the body, i loosened the 2 phillips screws on the hinge bracket, tapped it to the left, then tightened them up, It's now dead square and opens a treat... Also, you may need to bend the spring out a little (metal strip in the middle of the hinge bracket)...

Yeah they are mate, but I just did it the old fashioned way, as I'm tight :) Sorted now, Groover got in touch...

I agree, and I think matt black plenums look well tasty...

Yeah mate, pods :) Cheers.

Well, I want to solder in a led and resistor to the tracks where the bulb holder would normally use, but I don't know which one is positive, and can't ring it through as I'm not with the car, and it is a separate unit on both pods so I can't ring it through on the pod, if that makes sense :) Need to know for the bulb for the light switch illumination, and the bulb for the wiper switch illumination, done all the rest...

Thanks mate, but I meant which is positive and negative on the actual PCB, ooh, also on the wiper knob too...

Which is the + for the bulb for the lights switch? Mine has been attempted at LEDing before, and I think they were an alcoholic with the shakes, any markings have been melted off, and can't find it in the FAQ.... Cheers, Tudor.

Hmmm, I've got an S2, doesn't work for me tho, running 2.3.3, not a problem as I have bookmarked the search page, but how do I upgrade the software? Just popped in the menu, searched for updates and none found...

Great news mate, chuffed for ya! :)

That bit doesn't come off, its actually one end of the crankshaft.

That's a shitter pal, the flywheel bolts are 12.8 grade high tensile, in other words, very very hard bolts, if you have to drill them, use cobalt drill bits, and if you get it out, give us a shout and I'll sort you with a new bolt mate...

Cheers! No plans, just got in since half 8 this morning trying to find a pissin 9mm helicoil, just found somewhere that had them, now to go and fix the missus's brakes, fun fun fun! Well, she owes me extra birthday 'favours' now anyways :yawn:

Cheers.... :)

It's surprisingly heavy too, so once you've removed it, your boot will open a lot quicker, just don't whack yourself on the chin when you open it, I think we've all done that! :)

Aaah, good thinking batman, I could hear the relay click back there, but just did it the old fashioned way :)

Not sure mate, they came with, but I'll measure the inserts when I'm there later on...

I need to do an active stationary test on my HICAS, is there any free software out there that can do it? I have conzult free, datascan unregistered and OBD scantech, none of which will let me unless I buy the full version. Also, my neutral switch isn't connected after my manual conversion (by choice), so it wont go into the onboard diagnostic mode. So, I either need some software, or, another question, which pin on which plug on the old auto connectors in the engine bay do I ground to temporarily activate neutral for the ECU? Cheers, Tudor...

Haha... If you got them made from say 1mm steel, that would look pretty good, and yeah, plenty of room underneath then too, as with the smithy ones, once you get the step a cosy fit, it is a perfectly flush fit underneath, but luckily an EL strip is only really thin, so it doesn't really matter.

I wish I had taken some during the process, but basically, you have to decide where you want them on the kick plate (the proper ones have the logo nearer the front of the car, but I wanted mine nearer the back), and on the underneath of the sill there are 4 ribs running the length, I shaved these off where I wanted my logo using a very sharp chisel to give me a flat surface. I then marked the middle of the logo, there is already a piece of plastic moulding bang in the middle of the two screw holes on the kick plate, positioned the logo, then scribed around it, then cut out using a dremmel a good couple of mm's too small, then carefully filed away until it was a perfect fit, ensuring I kept everything square. As the logos have a lip on them to stop them popping through, I made it a perfect fit so it fits flush, I then fibre glass resinned the edges of the logo, which hold it and keeps it water tight. Also, along the top of the kick plate, that also has ribs running along it, the furthest one back I shaved off as there was only half of it left anyways (see pics). That's about it really, I just got stuck in, with the frame of mind 'If I balls it up, I'll get another one for a few quid from a breaker', but, I didn't... Pretty straight forward really, just takes patience and a good eye really... After they were done, the logos have double sided tape on the back, I stuck the EL panels to them (after trimming them), and gaffer taped to the edges to prevent water getting in... I removed the interior light (pop off the clear cover, then one phillips screw), spliced into the plug for the interior light unit, the plug has three wires, it's the outside 2 that are the switched power, so they only come on when either door is opened, and go off when closed, regardless of whether the interior light is switched on or not, and iirc, the green wire is the negative... I ran the wire through the centre of the targas to where the map lights are, remove the passenger sun visor, then under the roof lining to the A pillar, removed the end cap thingy from the end of the A pillar (one phillips screw), popped off the A pillar trim, tucked the wire behind the targa drain tube and dropped it behind the dash, which is where the inverter is... HTH....

Yeah you could, the beauty about these tho is they have a step on the edges, so they can't pop through the hole. There is about 3mm of a gap underneath to play with once you have shaved off the strengthening ribs.

Cheers... A few of us bought them from Smithy a short while ago, unfortunately he only had a few, and has no more...

Here's some litty uppy jobby pictures, have to say, I'll well chuffed with them...

Merry Christmas Jane :) :) :) :)

Yes there is mate, the boost is limited by the solenoids to the same as safety boost (about 6-7 psi (ish) I think, then when warmed up, you get your full boost...

I'm in Bolton, Manchester, re-built my engine from re-bore up, think I know every single nut and bolt on a zed after 5 years building it, got all the tools you could need, always happy to help anyone around my way...