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Tudor...

Dormant Member
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  • Country

    United Kingdom

Everything posted by Tudor...

  1. This is a proper forum, 2 days and over 1,000 reads of my posts on various BMW forums and nothing....
  2. holy shit, I think I know what you mean! I could feel that (after I have removed pretty much everything), but the pipe that fell off is very brittle and a bit like weatabix, but the end of that bit still had about a quarter inch of pipe on and felt very smooth and stiff, and I couldn't feel a hole in the end, so I doubted it, hmmmm, I do hope it is that. I have googled this to death, how did I not find this? Good man Terry
  3. Does anyone know exactly where this pipe in red goes after the fuel pressure regulator on a BMW E46 323i? It has perished and the other end has fell off, and I know it goes to the fuel pressure regulator, but then where? I have pretty much stripped everything off apart from the inlet manifold, as the fuel rail is nay on impossible, but still cannot see where it could go.... Thanks in advance if anyone can help, it's really urgent!.....
  4. Welcome matey, your at the right place! Happy Zedding :)
  5. I have this only very occasionally. The more I press the clutch, the lower the bite is, and the rest is just play, could be about 20 pumps before it is rather worrying, but it's fine the next day, and it rarely happens, it isn't a constant problem, rather strange...
  6. Not got a pic of the end of the box, but these are what you need, I have 2, but they don't marry up with my japspeed downpipes, but with me having OCD, I WILL make them fit. Took me about 18 months to find someone on here that I could buy them off second hand tho, seems mostly they get removed and lost... http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3860&Car_Type=NIS300&UID=2011121221573186.22.237.8
  7. the 13 flashes just means there is a code that needs to be found mate, if that makes sense... do the check, and it will be a code less than 10...
  8. I might be wrong, but I think 13 flashes means there is a code stored, not actually a fault code, and you need to do the diagnostic procedure to find out what code it is that's stored..... Might be of some help, never tried it my self tho... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=128846
  9. excellent lee, cheers :pint:
  10. Ok guys, it's a 2000 323i, and I need to know where the end of the fuel pressure regulator vac pipe goes, in red on the picture... I have tried all the usual things, forums, service manuals etc. no joy, seems no-one can tell me/show me where it goes, and to remove the plenum/intake manifold means disconnecting the fuel lines, which seem impossible to do with the engine in as they are at the back of the engine, zero clearance, and I have little bitch hands.... Cheers, Tudor....
  11. A quite common one is the tension rod bushing, it is filled with a silicone type oily stuff, have a look for a crack in the rubber and any seepage, quite common to cause wheel shaking when braking too.... Can replace with OEM arm, or press out the old bearing and put in poly ones (most common and cheapest option)....
  12. I heard they stopped the titanium keys for cost purposes, and also the fact they would wear out the plungers in the ignition barrel rather quickly as titanium is very hard, you can start the car with a spoon...
  13. Non turbo is different compression ratio, exhaust valves, plus allsorts of other differences, missing oil feeds etc, although I have always been curious, and waiting for someone to do a bolt on NA block turbo, with the higher compression etc, could be interesting, but not a job to do if you just want the car back on the road, TT lumps are more common that NA's anyways, I would say....
  14. What he said, not the end of the world mate, don't know if you have already done much, but there's tons you can clean/delete etc. while the engine is out, spending money is always a royal sting in the arse these days, but a nice fettled shiny engine and bay will be worth it. Have to agree tho, pretty much a doughnut thing to do, but hey ho, do a compression test and take it from there, you can get a replacement donkey cheap as chips, still amazes me how cheap a used VG30DETT is, considering what a fantastic engine it is, best of luck matey...
  15. hmmmm, what about Honda Motorsport?........ :detective: :)
  16. Haha, I'd love to have his email address, I could have some fun with him (or her)...... :) Edit : I'm as bad as them, the email address is right there, haha!
  17. Did that mate, tons of people have read my posts, but no joy, they clearly are mere mortals compared to us Zedders :)
  18. Already been on there matey, shows me everything I need to know, other than where the end of the vac pipe from the FPR goes... Cheers tho mate... Tudor.
  19. That would be great mate, although I have told my mate he can have it back tomorrow, but if he can't, he can't... And yeah, I have joined a couple of forums and asked the same question, but no replies, apart from someone saying they have 2002 330D and it goes to the air intake, no use to me... Taking the top end/plenum off so I can see, is proving to be a complete nightmare, the fuel rail needs to be disconnected, which looking at it, is impossible with the engine in (and I am very experienced in Zed engines and many others, I'm very used to cramped engine bays, and I have tiny girlie hands)... Thanks for your replies guys... Tudor...
  20. Is there no BMW knowledge bound folk? I'm off out to crack back on with it in a minute... Might burn it.
  21. I am working on my friends 2000 323i, and have found the fault to be the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator (this is after a garage fitted a new CAS and 3 coil packs, which didn't fix it), the vacuum pipe going to the FPR has perished, it is intact at the FPR, but the other end has fell apart and come off, my question is, where does the other end of the pipe go to? It bogs off down yonder somewhere, I would rather know before I start removing the plenum etc, which I don't mind doing if it is necessary...
  22. apart from undoing the hub nut, removing the hub is pretty easy really, disc off, drum brake bits out (take pictures), then just undo everything attatched to the hub, I'd say a lot easier than removing the ball joint in situ, then you take it to your local garage who I'm sure would press out then in your new one for a couple of beer tokens, but as I said, that hub nut can be seriously tight, have a go at one in situ first, see how you get on, it's a royal pain in the arse tho, no room to swing a big hammer about, and I have never felt very confident whacking ten kinds of shit out of a cast hub...
  23. I had the same 'They've dropped a clanger and sent me the wrong one' moment too mate :) I wasn't brave enough to attempt to remove the black covering the red...
  24. are you sure it's the brake light version? The non-brake light version still has the red diffuser and bulb holes etc. but it wont shine through as it has black over the red lense...
  25. Tub of pringles, still rough as a badger's nads from last night.

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