Tudor...

99% :)

Pretty daft question really, but I only put a new OEM gasket on 6 months ago, and she's only done a few hundred miles since, but I really need to lift the plenum to sort an oil leak, today ideally, but I'll have to put it back on today, I know everyone is going to say you need a new gasket, but do I really? Very simple vacuum system and water bypas done, so no big deal lifting it again to put one on at a later date... Cheers...

And I just took some off him for all the shit advice, mwahaha :lol: (only joking) :)

My aftermarket temp gauge has started doing something similar, but, my aftermarket oil pressure gauge started doing funny things first, it started twitching and going high, low randomly, so i though the sender might be duff, but then my water temp started going funny, in sync with the oil pressure gauge, so I'm thinking dodgy earth on the gauges...

Haha, cheers! Yep, PTFE oil smells sexy! Haha...

Well overdue some rep me thinks :lol: WD40 actually stands for 'Water Displacement', and is the 40th formula they came up with (useless info), but it isn't really a proper lubricant, get yourself a tin of silicone or PTFE lubricant (PTFE stand for poly tetra flouro ethene, I know what everything stands for, bit like the rain man!), it's fantastic stuff....

You could try spraying a bit of oil in it and working the key?

Only just seen this, again, as said, glad your Ok matey, makes you think! All the best with the repair, and good luck for Sunday...

No mate, did that about a year ago, it's coming from somewhere higher, from what I can see, it appears to be around the height of where the head meets the block, but it's quite a bad'n, I took some pics, I'll bung them up.... Gearbox needs to come off to inspect, nay probs really as I've got a lifter and trans jack etc...

Yep, good advice, the pipe that runs from the bottom corner of the rad, along the underneath to the other side of the car can collapse in on itself if its old...

Deffo try footman james again, I'm 29, import TT, half decent area, garaged, 204 quid, they DO insure imports, as hundreds of people on here with imports are insured by them and by all accounts, they seem to be one of the cheapest at the mo. Ask them straight away if they insure imports, and if they say no, just say, erm, can I speak to somone else, because you do insure imports....

I have a rather bad oil leak, and was thinking of whipping the gearbox off today to find it (manual), I always change the spiggot bushing, but I haven't got one, will be putting the box back on tonight, is it necessary to change it? Its an oem, not nismo... Cheers...

Thanks matey...

Does anyone know the inside diameter of the 2 short pieces of coolant hose in this picture please? One of mine has split and I forgot to measure it and forgot to bring it home with me, duh....

I know matey, neither was I :) And to be fair, I needed to do a HICAS diagnostic, and I couldn't, because it needs to think it's in neutral :lol:

I fitted a brand new engine wiring loom at the same time, didn't want to splice into it, and it saved time, effort and running more wires about as changing the timing is only a 5 minute job, and I had to set it after the rebuild, but also had heard from quite a few folks that they didn't like the change of revs when they put it into gear when setting off. Each to their own really, I was just explaining the (possibly unnecessary) logic behind it :)

You are thinking of the starter inhibitor, which prevents the car from starting unless it is park with your foot on the brake, this is normally bypassed when doing the manual conversion, but some people still leave it on the brake pedal as a safety/anti-theft measure. The neutral switch retards the timing when in neutral, just for the tick over, then when the car is placed in gear, or rather when it is taken out of neutral, the base timing is then advanced to 25 on tick over (obviously changes when revved), if the switch is not connected or used at all, then the timing in neutral should be set to 25 as it would be advanced to when put in gear, otherwise the engine will always be set to 15 degrees as it always thinks it is in neutral. If the neutral switch is connected as it would be OEM (pin 44 on the ECU) or the car is an auto, then the timing should be set to 15BTDC in neutral when warmed up...

That is correct mate.

It's 15 degrees in neutral when fully warmed up, but only if the neutral switch is connected, then when you put it in gear it advances to 25 degrees, so if you do not have the switch connected, you set it to 25... Have you done a boost leak test?

Could be a sensor duff of covered in metal filings, but could also be the ring gear/teeth on the end of the drive shaft for the sensor, sometimes crack and every rotation when applying the brakes it engages, I had to change one the other week, although on a different car...

Might be of help mate.... http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?117000-Auto-to-manual-conversion http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?25683-Things-to-consider-if-you-have-to-take-the-gearbox-off!

+1 :) Times are hard!

Hahaha, my sense of humour exactly :lol:

I'm not as old as you lot, so it's new to me :lol: