Tudor...

I did a service on a car the other day, lifted the bonnet, and every part you could put some, had loads of dried dog or cat food piled up :confused:

There isn't mate, the only 'MAP' sensor is the sender for the stock boost gauge, all generations used a MAF...

awww pants.

I have asked this before and got the answer, but I have forgotten and can't find it, but, which section is the shorter section on the SWB? Front half or rear half? I'm kinda desperately looking for a LWB NA Manual prop for my NA rear end conversion, and there is a SWB NA Manual breaker near me, last resort is just using half of that prop with half of mine if it's the front half that is shorter on a SWB, not ideal tho as I already have balancing issues on mine at the mo, might get lucky tho.....

It wasn't an NA LWB Manual was it? :( :(

Aye, could be, I had a top gear style steam pouring out side of the road jobby the other week tho, as the liquid gasket failed (the company that re-bored my block sold it me, it's pathetic, turns to dust after a few months, replacing everything one by one as they fail).

Do you mean the two small pieces? If so, it could be the pipes, or it could be the liquid gasket has failed where the metal pipes meet the cylinder head (happened on mine a couple of weeks ago).... Either way, you will need to remove your large rubber intake pipes to the throttle bodies, then your two rubber pipes from the end of your metal water pipes, then your fan shroud (4 bolts in either corner, bit fiddly at the bottom), then the bottom half of the fan shroud unclips, makes re-fitting easier, then undo the 4 10 mm (i think) bolts holding the fan onto the viscous unit, then you should be able to remove the clips holding the metal pipes onto the rubber sections with some 'long' long nosed pliers, if these are at fault your laughing, if not and the liquid gasket from the metal pipes to cylinder head has failed (well worth doing anyway as your mostly there), then you will need to remove the metal pipes, they are held on with allen bolts, 7 or 8mm i think, they will be tight, so you want to use a 1/2 inch allen bit with a ratchet, bit awkward to find and see, but a torch will help, then you can remove the metal water pipes, clean them up real good, get your self some good quality insant/liquid gasket, put a nice but not too thick bead on them, carefully offer them up, then put back together. Read the label on the liquid gasket for how long to leave before starting etc. You will have to bleed the system for air, there is a guide somewhere but I'm all ready late for work :) Good luck matey, any questions just ask, I'll try and keep my eye on this thread today....

Or switch your mains off at the fuse box then plug it into a socket, or you'll be powering everyone else's house, and if the power comes back on, pop :)

Excellent, cheers mate, just rang up, 20 quid plus vat, gonna ring Mike up now see if he's got one, nissan can't get me one till tuesday....

When I bought my zed, all the cogs of the odometer had been superglued together so the mileage wouldn't go up, also, check the back of the clocks, see if the lead with a plug on the end coming from the odometer is plugged into the back of the clocks...

Anyone? Had to drive it a couple of miles home with no clutch, and now she's stuck outside getting pissed on :(

If the cracks are at the very edge and don't travel too far, with a small paint brush, you can paint some black paint between the gap/back of the lense and the housing, makes them virtually un-noticeable...

This happened to me tonight, first press of clutch fine, then a bit of play, then more play, then just a tiny bit of clutch at the bottom, parked up back at work, came out, tried it again, little bit of clutch and loads of play, first press 'pop'. Luckily I'm a mechanic so I pushed it into the garage, lifted it, tried bleeding, all the same symptoms as above, removed the master cylinder, and in the vice if I put my finger over the outlet and pushed the piston in, and instead of causing a vacuum under my finger it just blows and sucks through the reservoir, so the seals are goosed. Does anyone know of the part number for the refurb kit? Cheers, Tudor....

Speeding, what's your excuse, 'Need a crap' :)

I'm missing mine too, can you PM it me matey? :lol:

Is that a ball ache matey? I can't remember, gonna be whipping mine off soon...

I did mine on a lifter whilst the gearbox was out, still a pain in the arse, I just chopped everything into bite sized pieces. Well done pal, anything left of your knuckles?

I think he's after buying a bunch of them for his new funky range of spoilers :)

No link matey..... Also check the UJ on the steering linkage near the rack, could be rusted up.... (probably not, but you never know, worth oiling up anyway....) Also, if you turn the wheel just a tiny bit, more like just putting pressure on it, do you hear anything from the pump, any rev change or anything at all?

Or, if you keep having major traumas with the clutch, you could fit a single braided hose from slave to master, and get rid of the other pipework, makes bleeding a lot easier.

Agreed, hefty, thick bad boys them diffs.....

Have a bucket of rep :)

Seriously??

I SAID....... :) And £3.22, just looked and that's all that's in my paypal account, haha :)

I'll swap ya for a rev counter :lol: I'll be posting it shortly matey...