Noz

Engines don't detonate/knock on overrun.

Electric fans can be controlled via the stock ECU based on vehicle speed and coolant temperature. I prefer the way a viscous regulates the temperature, but if one can't be used then a suitable electric item can be programmed to maintain a constant temp in a similar way.

Hello & welcome :)

What's the spec of your Zed? Time Attack may be suitable for you.

Most likely James/Jay's Zed. Nice car, goes well.

He truly excelled getting my Zed ready for TOTB as well. 270mile round trip for me, 4 times in one week. Well worth it. All hail The Jimmer.

Ninja Style :ninja: Spent quite a lot of time this evening during a huge downpour adjusting MAF translation values and getting the car to idle nicely with the blow-through MAF set up. 65 points on the graph, each point adjustable from 0 - 64999 :yawn: Fuel pressure increased to 4 bar base to help with atomisation, also giving me 982cc of fuelling to play with from the Sard 850s. It seems to be on the limit of what the stock ECU & MAF can comfortably handle, resolution-wise. Still waiting for the new MAF to arrive.... And some decent weather so I can crack on with an Emerald K6 powered Zed I have in :cool:

Still the same Turbonoz Prototype 001 Edition Type R Spec Z.

Stealth FMIC

Doing what they should be so far: Making boost and not smoking. Running them at 1.5 bar and once they get going the car pulls hard.

Don't think it had anything to do with the limits of a 300zx, the standard engine is good for a great deal more power than it is running.

2. Fit GTX turbos and run them at anything less than the 2+ bar they were designed to produce.

My MR2 sounded pretty good and went quite well too....

Injector impedance should be around 12 Ohm

Thank you for the kind words. We have done quite a number of cars together now.

No, that's OK. Continue to follow Jimmer's instructions. Just wanted to make sure it's not being thrashed!

It's only running a basemap suitable for running in, it shouldn't be driven hard.

Fpr :)

£2050 at the moment

Same here.

If I wasn't down in Bristol & Hampshire mapping tomorrow, I would make it there on the Saturday with my twice my weight in Caffrey's. I am going to try my utmost to get there on Sunday, but I fear a weekend of mapping Zeds is going to be my lot!

The Selin isn't required in the first place, it's just a nicely-packaged voltage averager. You can choose to use one along with a second MAF, if you don't mind the additional cost, in exactly the same way as with the OEM MAF.

Dialled in the speed-regulated launch control on the Nistune ECU :devil: There are now 2 options for launch control without needing to fit a standalone ECU or aftermarket system: 1. Speed-regulated (i.e. when speed is below a pre-programmed value, launch control is active) 2. Switch Activated (i.e. when the switch is pressed, launch control is activated regardless of speed) It is possible to have either fuel cut, ignition cut or a combination of both. Fuel cut gives a soft rev limit, ignition cut gives a hard rev limit (aka pops & bangs). And for the lucky Europeans out there, the new Flex Fuel options allow for the use of E85 by measuring the ethanol content present in the fuel. The stock ECU with these latest NIStune-only features is such an amazing piece of equipment :tt1: Also ordered the latest in MAF technology, as I've had enough of the OEM hot wire system! The new slot-style MAF can be fitted to any size intake tube from 2.5" to 5", either before (draw-through) or after the turbo in the IC pipework (blow-through). In a single 2.5" tube, it can measure enough air for 580whp, which equates to 1160whp in a single MAF dual intake set up. This set up allows for relatively simple placement of the MAF sensor directly in the IC pipework leading to the throttle body, giving the option for fault-free running with vent-to-air BOVs, zero low speed drivability issues, the ability to completely remove ALL intake pipework from the turbo inlets just like a standalone MAP-based ECU.

Yeah, it's on Facebook advertised as 450+bhp, with the seller claiming he's going to get a fresh printout for all to see. I've never understood the point of "the previous owner claims xxxbhp". After all, a power run is about £40 and the difference between 300bhp and 500bhp is considerably more. The guy is a trader that knows a sprayer (and a good one at that by the looks of it), but he clearly hasn't got a clue about the car in the slightest. The interior is in worse condition than cars I've scrapped, the bodykit & artwork is subjective (I personally like the back end). It could be worth a bit if there was any kind of engine spec available (all I can make out are twin GFB BOVs, an oil cap, braided fuel line & hard pipes). The epitome of a risky buy!

Best: 1 - Mapping it :laugh: 2 - 2.5" pipework, custom intercooler set up & dual split intakes 3 - EBC Yellowstuff pads & grooved/vented discs all round, once they're up to temp! Worst: Nothing really. I had some alloys on it that were quite heavy a year or so ago.