Noz

As I said from the very beginning, I have never seen fuel smoke look like that..... Simply because it just doesn't look like that :blink: I've already asked before: Is it breathing heavily? Any 'puffing' out of the oil filler cap and/or dipstick tube? I guess it doesn't as there is no smoke on immediate start-up, but confirmation would be good. Compression test to do next, cylinder balance test is all well and good, but you need actual compression figures before you can rule out bore issues. Do the PCV valves allow air to pass both ways? Remove them, block the holes (1/4 BSP IIRC), vent hoses to atmosphere. Does it still smoke?

What about the blue smoke he sees when driving? That's an engine ingesting oil however you look at it. And if you can see blue smoke whilst driving, there is plenty of it exiting the exhaust....

If there's no smoke when first started, it's very unlikely to be the valve stem oil seals. I'm going for turbo oil seals. Definitely if the smoke burns your eyes when you stick your face next to the tailpipes :wack:

Like I said, different approaches to problem solving when it comes to cars. I cannot make any assumptions, therefore I do not. Especially not when there are tests to conduct beforehand. I do know, that driving a turbocharged car which is burning oil is not a good idea. I do not know enough about the car to offer anything other than cautionary advice. Simple, really. Unburnt fuel is not "whitey bluey". He says the car runs smoothly so safe to say it is firing on all six cylinders. I would be happy with 150+ psi, with no more than 14-15psi difference between cylinders. Not sure what the manual states. Fuel pump fuse in the engine bay, driver's side. Fuse nearest the engine itself, it's labelled on the fuse box lid.

Blue.

If it's white on idle and has an acrid smell, oil is being vapourised. This is due to turbo oil seals. If it's blue whilst driving, oil is being ingested by the engine. This is due to various reasons.

The fuelling is going to be wrong because the battery was disconnected? No it isn't. ECU self-learning doesn't put the AFR completely out of whack so as to cause bore wash. If indeed that is the issue here. If it is over 25°C or 50°C (depends on the map) then it will be in closed loop if O2 sensors are working correctly, and should not be overfuelling to any serious extent. I guess it depends which way round you approach things. If there is an issue with something, I investigate the issue first, diagnose it as best as possible, fix it if applicable, then test drive the car. I don't just drive and see if it clears. Same with flat spots/hesitation/misfires etc. Just because your car does something, it doesn't mean another car will behave identically. IMO, it's common sense to err on the side of caution, especially when trying to diagnose issues with other people's cars remotely. So, for the sake of a couple of simple tests, then no, I wouldn't recommend someone attempts to drive through issues just because my own car behaves one way. Very simply: A car is smoking and the smoke is blue. The engine is ingesting oil. This lowers the octane rating of the fuel. Driving a smoking car is not advisable until you can determine what is the cause of the smoke.

Should do, in lambda terms.

Take it for a good run before doing simple tests outlined on this thread? That is not a very good idea. Best to see what it's doing, then take it for a run. Besides, there is no MOT or tax on the car according to the information posted.

Buy a wideband lambda system or find someone that has one.

One of the worst things you can do to an engine is leave it laid up for many months. Did you drop some oil down the bores and crank it over to build the oil pressure before starting it? Obviously after renewing all the fluids.

So you bought new components before doing a compression test, a leakdown test or checking the AFR? Why not simply remove the PCV valves from the system temporarily?

Depends on exactly what is coming out of those exhaust pipes. Looks like oil to me, fuel to others. Only you know what it smells like. Measure the AFR, do a compression test, do a leak-down test, check the turbine housings for oil, rebuild the turbos, rebuild the engine.

^^^

Ok, it's fuel smoke :wack:

Unburnt fuel isn't white, and doesn't smell toxic. If it's an acrid smell, it's vapourised oil from turbo oil seals.

Looks like oil smoke in the first vid as it has a blue tinge. Giving it a good run may cause serious issues, but it may not. Impossible to tell, really. If that was a cold engine, freshly started after 8 months, I would suggest the valve oil stem seals and if the turbos are the same units as before, then maybe the turbo oil seals. Is it breathing heavily?

Getting there then :D

What failed that caused you to not carry on after 7 years of building the car? Assuming it was engine-related, I would have just banged a stocker in there and ran 600bhp :wack: If it was me, I'd sell everything. Years back, I had all the goodies for a massive spec engine build for my old S13, but the stock lump just refused to die. Eventually sold the stock engine to try and get motivated for the build, but then hated having loads of parts knocking around and a car with no engine. I'm no engine builder, so was reliant on others in that department. Ended up selling everything and moving on.

The yellow Nismo pintle-less injectors are spot on as they are simply rebranded JECS injectors. They're actually 615cc.

Nistune daughterboard plugs into the 28pin chip socket, then there's a 4-wire ribbon to solder to the ECU and connect to the Nistune board. Nistune software licence if you're going to be tinkering. Not sure of the current capabilities of the free trial version. Download it from the website and check it out :) Consult diagnostic cable. I use serial ones. Required for tuning: Wideband lambda sensor Knock monitoring equipment

Are the knocking & safety boost issues cured now then? If not, let us know how it goes with a reduction in base timing. If the dyno really is a no-go, and the knocking is still occurring, one option would be to program a series of chips for you with differing fuel/timing maps based on whatever map is in your ECU. Old-school remote mapping :D

I've never tried this with the coolant temp sensor, but with the fuel temp sensor unplugged, the fuel temp starts at around 20°C and slowly increases to the maximum (80°C IIRC), all the while throwing code 42. The moment it is reconnected, the fuel temp reads correctly. Unplug it again, it immediately shows 20°C and slowly increases again to the maximum. If one moment the ECU is seeing the correct voltage/temperature (eg 80°C), and the next moment it is seeing 21°C, then maybe the voltage differential forces an error code. It may well be more sophisticated than the simple open/closed circuit error reporting. I take it when the issues are occurring, the aux fan is not on? When the coolant is at a genuine 80°C, and the ECU is seeing 20°C, the car will naturally idle at 1500RPM, as the timing & fuelling are both increased a lot in this scenario. I guess the only thing you can do is test the sensor again as per the manual, ensure the connections are sound and there are no breaks in the associated loom.

It's all about the high-comp turbo setup :D

I'm liking that. Just needs 2 turbos on it now :wack: