Noz

I know, hence them needing to build them "properly". I probably imported my first turbo kit 7 yrs ago, and risked them on my own car when it was mainly XSPower in the States that were selling them worldwide and the whole "glued turbo" report was doing the rounds. Went through some spectacular smokey failures before finding a good churbo for my S13. I have dealt a fair bit with Chinese companies, and it's a case of finding the tier 1 resellers that deal with the best 'manufacturers' (so to speak). Churbo quality is far ahead of what it was years ago. I still wouldn't call them a viable alternative for everybody due to the work involved in fitting them on a Zed.

Right, but just because a range of turbos utilises the same rebuild kit, it has no bearing (no pun intended) on the spec of compressor and turbine wheels, which are the most important components of a CHRA/core. Plus, there's a big difference in the end result if the turbos in question only use a T28 compressor wheel (which is in fact a T3 wheel) or an entire T28 core. It's the end result that should matter to Spin Doctor and everyone in fairness, hence it is a complex situation which is compounded by US companies promoting GTX turbos which do not perform as expected until very high boost (1.5bar minimum). Far from suitable for most end users, hence it is not a range I ever recommend having worked first-hand with GTX-equipped cars. In reality it is not that simple to bolt regular turbos to a VG, I've done exactly this in a Turbonoz/Power Zed collaboration :laugh:

This beauty is still for sale. "Will need some tuning" Brilliant, just brilliant. It's only down some 220bhp. New K&N and some magnets on the fuel line will see it right I reckon.

Heh, the Chinese have surely had enough time to learn how to build turbos properly!

My turbos? No smoke at all, I first used Chinese turbos many years ago to great effect on my S13, so I've known for some time it pays to fit oil restrictors to give the seals a chance. I need to do some serious testing on the road, dyno & drag strip in my Zed and compare the figures with my stock turbo set up.

Yeah, I run Chinese turbos, was the quickest option before TOTB. If you want a quick solution, by a Supra :wack:

My GT2870s churbos are going strong. Silly power up top, may even get chance to dyno the car next week, but probably not!

CHRA is an acronym for Centre Housing Rotating Assembly. The core consists of the compressor & turbine wheels, central housing, bearings etc.

Tried & tested takes time & lots of testing (road & dyno). Things are moving ahead on this.

Done many thousands of very hard miles on Tesco Momentum 99, it's a great fuel. Shell V Power has more knock resistance I've found though.

It won't be a T28 core (CHRA) as there is no mention of changes to the turbine wheel & housing from the stock TB22. They look the same size as stock, from what I can tell. Spin Doctor: No, they are not GT28 turbochargers. If the rear is unchanged from stock, they are T3/T22 hybrids Also, a T28 and everything up to a GT3071R have T25 fittings. The next sixe up is the T3-frame turbocharger.

Noël is my French cousin :laugh: I've got the Mine's & Impul maps somewhere. They'll both be your typical Jap spec maps (advanced). Jimmer @ Power Zed has a nice pic of an engine running a Mine's ECU.... Same as with any ECU upgrade that hasn't been proven in the UK or wasn't even destined to be used in this country, both AFR & knock should be monitored. You can never be 100% sure what's been programmed onto the chip without analysing the maps, either. I think the ECU in the first post that I analysed for someone was actually fitted by them (nothing to do with me whatsoever). It was run at 22psi and subsequently destroyed the engine. Car is being broken for spares. You've gotta laugh...

Who's building the engine?

I've always found Eagle F1s to be so much better than T1Rs with regards to grip and everyday fast road use.

Yes, one of the problems due to the OEM mounts. Won't be long until I've done some testing on the new blow-through slot MAF insert so the stock intake can be upgraded or removed in its entirety. As close to running a MAP sensor as is possible.

I wouldn't recommend a random generic chip for £25 at all to be honest, pointless if it's getting remapped. The 555cc chips that used to do the rounds are pretty shocking. Mine certainly don't cost £25 :wack: James, will drop you a message when I get back tonight regarding prices. Ian, I went from 394 bhp to 450+ bhp with decats, front mount, 2.5" pipework and dual intake on stock turbos & injectors. Torque was up about 60-70 lbft. Boost increase was possible from 1.4 to 1.7 bar. Drivability & response was amazing.

You don't need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Standard fuel pump is good for the power, but it will likely be a couple decades old at least, so bear that in mind. A tired engine will still do the job, the only issue will be an increased wear rate. 2.5" intake pipework will see a nice increase, as will a dual intake set up. These are not needed though.

Mine does this if it's sat for a while. Most will do in fairness as the oil drains out of the tappets and is replaced by air. As long as it is just a sticky lifter or two and nothing else, all I normally do is take it for a drive. You can also try increasing the revs slowly to around 3000rpm a few times whilst idling and see if they quieten down. If the oil is old, change it first of course. Make sure it's the correct grade as well.

Don't forget Rolfaroo! John Peel was a bit naughty too.

:lol: :lol: Wrong side of the car & time is of the essence when you're at Maccy D's and need to do some bang-bangs :wack: Unless of course I am mistaken and this is for drag racing purposes :shifty:

That looks promising, the second vid is completely clear. I've deleted the PCV system on all my cars (various marques) and not had an issue. Nice clean intakes are always preferable, I simply allow the crankcase pressure to vent to atmosphere as I'm not restricted by government regulations regarding emissions :laugh: It really pays to diagnose issues properly rather than ever driving a car with obvious problems :thumbup1: Once you've checked for smoke after standing overnight, the next test will be to take it on a short run to see if there is any smoke under load (don't go giving it death just yet!). Oil in the exhaust or weeping seals isn't a major problem, but driving a car that is burning oil can be. It could be that the oil in the exhaust has burnt off and it's a coincidence, though. You can look into the plenum through the balance bar ports and see if there are pools of oil in there as well.

Well I guess quite a few beasts got away with their shenanigans for long enough, what goes around should eventually come around, apparently. I think you should make it clear that your post is regarding adult accusers though. Celebrities that have used their public personas and privileged positions to procure prepubescant persons peadophilically should always be brought to justice and their actions made public knowledge, regardless of timescale. It's an interesting topic, but one for the pub, methinks :wack:

"Proper job" in this scenario is to use heat shrink. DIY job, not trade as he's doing it himself :)

"Proper job" = soldered connections surrounded by heat shrink.

For the time being, you can leave the PCV valves in place, and use some hose and simply block that with a bolt if you don't have the correct bung for the PCV threads. Just ensure that the engine can still breathe.