Noz

As you probably know, the CC has no purpose whatsoever other than to recycle fuel tank fumes. If it becomes a source of vac leaks, it's simply discarded as it doesn't affect our emission testing over here. Unless of course the car is being kept 100% standard intentionally, no one is going to spend time investigating a 25yr old plastic can. Along with the AIVs, the PRVR and the EGR system, the CC should be removed/bypassed at the earliest opportunity on these cars. Even standard cats have one positive going for them, and that is because replacement decats can possibly accelerate rear turbo oil seal wear. Regarding boost leak tests, my car has been pressurised to 22psi without issue.

Testament to the Herculean strength of the VG! Sensible boost levels, colder plugs, some mapping and you have a very responsive set up. Would have liked to have got my hands on it :devil:

It's nothing to do with intercooler pipework. Filters sit where the standard sidemounts reside.

£150.

Had to pop to Automodz on Monday so decided to take the Turbonoz Z32 for a bit of mapping and to check the new AEM 320LPH fuel pump against Mark's DW 450LPH and a stock item. It's a haven for performance Nissans! There's about 1800bhp in that photo :D

There's some major machinery entered! That's my kind of event, wish I would have had time to enter!

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/member.php?6583-GIBSTER-TT Yesterday, 18:51. So quite often. PM him? Visitor message?

My God that's terrible. Love the look of the car though. No, proper screamer pipe from an external wastegate only thanks :laugh:

[quote name= Jon MacQuarrie Technical Support Specialist] ---------snip------------- We don't list an iridium spark plug due to the fact we don't make this exact design in iridium. For liability issues we won't list an iridium spark plug for this application due to it's special design. However by calling or emailing we can make the recommendation of an iridium spark plug with less projection, especially in modified applications. Of course the end user will use at there own risk. In modified applications you don't want as much projection as a daily driver so performance isn't an issue. You can use the iridium spark plugs BKR series in this application. Again it will have less projection then the spark plug originally designed for the vehicle. Jon MacQuarrie Technical Support Specialist Yes... Liable to have had their arses served to them by Nissan. No doubt contravening the agreement that was set up by the two companies, I assume (maybe incorrectly...). Everything else he stated 10 yrs ago is in line with what I tell people that ask me about spark plugs in the VG30DETT: PFR6B-11C are fine for stock engines running stock boost. Increase boost/power, run a colder plug with less projection. The guy himself states BKR series plugs are suitable for modified applications :wack:

I'd be very surprised if you can get hold of a MID4 plenum :D That pic is from the Nissan DNA Garage in Zama. I love old Datsuns http://press.nissan-global.com/COMMON/HERITAGE/database/en_result.html

On stock turbos, there would be a benefit from reducing spiking, but would it be worth the cost & effort in that engine bay, twice over? I doubt it would if that was the only benefit. I'd be more inclined to do it for the noise. I miss screamer pipes :wack: Internal wastegates & external wastegates differ in their ability to regulate boost, so if spiking or boost creep is a major issue, it may be the only solution. Cheap, too. If you're working with an internally-gated turbo and want to fit an ext WG, you have to weld the internal gate shut (holding closed with wire is another method), there isn't another way if that's the set-up you're going for. Swapping any old T2x exhaust (turbine) housing (comp = compressor, cold side) for a T2x in a non-gated configuration would be a massive ballache, you may as well swap the turbos. I suppose a typical scenario where this is a probable solution would be an internally-gated GT2876 on a 1.8-2.2L engine. That set up is prone to boost creep without modification. They come in both IWG & EWG flavours from the factory, so swapping one for the other would not be an issue.

There is only so many times I can post the same reasoning behind the requirement for various heat grades & material composition of spark plugs. Been through it so many times, just because Nissan & NGK made a deal it doesn't change the fact that platinums are designed for longevity (60k service intervals) in a brand new stock engine. So yes, I agree 100% that the PFR6B-11B is the OEM recommended plug. Thankfully, we don't have to fit them as there are options that are more appropriate for different specifications of engines. BKR7E, BKR7EIX, BKR8EIX & BCR8ES being just four that work perfectly. I run BCR8ES in mine at 1.7 bar on twin GT2870 churbos, and they are much shorter than PFR6B. Same set has seen umpteen dyno & 1/4 mle pulls and many hours of mapping. Jaffa runs them in his at 700whp. They are perfect for our needs. PFR6B are not :)

The PFR6B-11B is NOT a cold plug. It is fine for a brand new stock engine. Posted loads on this, will put links on this thread when I get chance.

Have a look at some of Slick Pete's posts. The easiest & cheapest way to increase power (BHP per £) will always be an engine transplant.

Just to touch on one point made in this thread: The Bee*R rev limiter should not be used as an alternative to the stock rev limit. The stock rev limit cuts all fuelling events at the specified RPM. This means that for an engine cycle it will run lean. Exactly the same as on overrun, the engine is simply pumping air which is perfectly safe. Running lean is an issue when cylinders are making power. Spark cut should not be used on its own, the fuel has to go somewhere and at 7k RPM, there is a lot of fuel that needs to go somewhere (sump or exhaust manifold). Bee*Rs have been around for a long time, I used one to great effect on the dragstrip years ago. There are a few horror stories out there, I didn't experience any issues, but then I only used it to build boost with a T70 on a 1.8L and get off the line every weekend :D

I wouldn't have suggested unplugging them and leaving them unplugged if it would cause any damage to your car's engine :wack: It's always better to have functioning O2 sensors than not, though. Myself, I like to run a lean cruise (AFR >14.7:1) so do away with O2 feedback altogether. Unplugged O2 sensors: ECU sees a constant voltage of 0.31v as opposed to a fluctuating voltage between 0 & 1.5v. This pegs the AFR slightly rich, but O2 feedback is still functional when the car is up to temp. As is the case with fully-working O2 sensors, the only section of the map that is affected is the closed-loop section (idle & light load up to around 4800 RPM on stock cars). Cars I've mapped have a very different closed-loop area compared to standard. Closed loop area in top gear is different to the other gears on stock cars.

You can run internally-gated turbos with an external wastegate: You simply weld the wastegate shut.

I never set it that way on a Zed, the less the loom is disturbed around that area the better for me. By setting it initially via diagnostics, you just monitor how quickly the AAC % reaches the desired 15%. This way, you simply set it so it just drops to 15% after manually increasing the revs and letting them settle. The whole 650rpm on the tacho is probably just to ensure the AAC% will be >15% once the plug is reconnected. Kind of pointless really, but perfectly understandable in the days when diagnostic machines were main dealer only. Naturally, all this needs to be done when the car is up to temp and with all ancillaries switched off. The main thing is that the AAC just hits 15% at the desired idle RPM. If the rate of decrease is too high, the valve is too far open. Takes all of 3 minutes to get it spot-on and no messing around with connectors & clips :D Couple of side notes: AAC minimum on my own car is 17%, it never reaches 15% anymore. For Auto-Manual converted cars, I always use a manual configuration file when mapping so as to avoid the +10° timing increase (idle & in gear condition) when the neutral switch has not been wired in. Idle RPM will increase if you're still using an Auto ECU and no neutral switch.

Could be the associated loom. Use a suitable diagnostic tool to identify exactly what is happening when the issue occurs. Easiest & quickest way to solve a problem. I take it the valve is adjusted correctly and not by ear.

BeeR: Handbrake. Nistune: External switch can be used in conjunction with speed setting, as well as on its own. Clutch is perfectly feasible. When a clutch switch is used without the speed setting, full-throttle flat-shifting may be possible. I've never been a fan of speed-only launch control. It means you can't rev the engine past the launch RPM whilst stationary. That's why I've always used a switch. On the handbrake.

The standard ECU (with a little help from Nistune) gives you fully customisable launch control, either based on speed (condition is speed Even without Nistune, I can program launch control into the stock ECU to be used in conjunction with a switch. It just isn't adjustable, which is a shame :(

Not overly fussed about semantics or individual fashion choices I'm afraid, just the technical aspect of the topic in question. Well done though, that's some fancy linguistics you've done there. Got me beat without the use of Google, although the statement wasn't a simile. Have some internet points on me :laugh:

Bkr7eix. Can get them for less than £40 delivered for 6 if you have to use iridiums.

With regards to BOVs... Generally speaking, standard 20+yr old recircs are only good to a point, as far as boost levels go, hence an aftermarket solution may be required, be it recirc or VTA which is easier to implement. Fitting them purely for the noise is different and down to personal preference, taking into account the possible issues on a MAF-based vehicle. A MAP sensor set up (standalone ECU or VPC) or simply having the MAF after the BOVs in the IC pipework eliminates any fuel delivery issues. Regardless, with a good-quality BOV set-up you will only get a tiny instance of overfuelling before the ECU cuts all injection events due to overrun (TPS closed, RPM>1500 when Temp>70°C; unless this has been mapped out for flames of course). I personally don't run any type of dump valve on any car, regardless of boost level. Removing recircs altogether does not cause compressor surge of the damaging kind. On-boost surge is a different phenomenon altogether. As far as I'm aware there is nothing to suggest premature turbo failure, but a recirc set up does indeed reduce noise-pollution which is the main reason they were fitted, along with ribbed intake pipework, exhaust silencers etc. What actually happens is the pressurized air flows back towards the compressor outlet and causes flow instability at the compressor itself. The fluttering noise you hear on lift-off is this flow interacting with the blades in a non-laminar manner. It is this scenario which, in engineering terms, is called compressor stall. When the terminology is applied to modified cars, it has been interpreted that the shaft actually stops spinning. This is untrue. Although there will be some additional stress, since the car is on overrun with the throttle closed, the turbine (exhaust) wheel isn't experiencing high applied torque and the flow subsequently stabilises (the fluttering stops). Any BOV with a weak spring is going to cause running issues due to unmetered air. If you must run them, look for an SSQV-type unit or a good quality twin-piston with adjustable spring (I've had good results with GFB BOVs). Personally, I can't stand them as they're just another component that can fail. However, any "McDonalds/chav" hyperbole is pointless as it fails to address the actual facts of the matter whilst being mildly offensive to the many thousands of people running BOVs on MAF-equipped cars. Much worse than running a BOV, or even a Veilside bodykit :laugh: From a noise perspective, I prefer a "flutter/chatter" over a "tish" any day of the week :)

Opinions were asked for in the original post, and people have given just that :confused1: