Noz

On a Mine's ECU with base timing at 15°? That's brave :wack:

If all you're doing is turning the boost up, you can use anyone as long as they know what they're doing. Or the other option is to just turn it up and see what happens. It's a terrible idea, but it's the same as going on someone else's estimate from a forum.

Just get it on a dyno and have them turn the boost up whilst monitoring AFR & knock. That's the only answer, really. Anything else is just a mindless guess as to what your specific car can do. The first guy may have base timing at 13° without even knowing it, then the next guy follows him blindly and kills his engine.

Ok, so any turbos from stock upwards? Some of the nicest cars I've worked with are running stock turbos. With regards to the F150 MAF, it's pointless until heading northwards of 600bhp. If you're thinking of injectors next year & pulling the engine again (I assume) for a bottom end refresh, what is your end goal? It sounds like you are looking for a responsive set up around 420bhp with the option to go for 600+ next year. You won't find that with a set of £600 turbos... I'm not picking faults for the sake of it, I just can't work out exactly what you're looking for and why.

GSP600s are the best bang for your buck by a country mile ;) That isn't taking into consideration the fact they are Chinese blowers where varying QC is part of the fun. Besides, smoke screens can be useful.

I have bought TT-Auto Zeds for £500 :D The reputation perpetuated on UK forums about them being only good for 350bhp before exploding in a ball of flame hasn't exactly helped values when they're pitched against Supras, Skylines & GTOs (to some extent) that can go 600+. Why would anyone buy a 300ZX when they're impossible to "maintain" and "tune". Rather ironic given the VG30DETT is Nissan's flagship engine from the 90s, good for 700+ on a stock block and hitting 260mph on the salt flats ;) Obviously, it's not all about bhp. There are now thankfully many more options for regular maintenance and performance tuning than before. Owners now have a choice where to go and how much to spend which wasn't the case a few years ago. Everything is covered now, whether you want a cambelt change, a bodykit fitting or an 800bhp monster build. Bringing them in line with Supras in the UK will be difficult, after all, the MKIV was delayed in order to better the Z32 in every way IIRC and they sure weren't a "10s car" in a huge Hollywood street racing blockbuster... As for the car in question on eBay, there is no "spec" required for 357bhp :laugh:

I don't get it :wack:

You need a well-specified engine & supporting mods to get the most out of GT525s (see the dyno leaderboard). I already have one option for GTX-style bolt-on upgrades, but as I said in another thread, they're pointless unless you spec your car to run the high boost they're designed for. I'm in the process of putting together some turbo packages, provisionally Stage 1 (500bhp) & Stage 2 (600bhp). There isn't an ETA on this though, so if you're in a rush that won't be of any help

They do pretty much the same thing without the in-car adjustability at a much cheaper price. I use them on all my cars, but I had the Profec B Spec 2 on the MR2 Turbo. The latest model Profec is very good.

The way you have it set up will give unlimited boost (and a very small vac leak through the MBC bleed hole!). If you look at the instructions that came with it, you'll see that the pressure source goes to the connector OPPOSITE the adjuster. Also, it would be better to have the MBC outlet tee'd into the actuator lines at an equal distance from both actuators. The way you have, it is closer to the driver's side than the passenger side.

Back to front :)

Replace the MBC with a joiner. - - - Updated - - - YHave you got the MBC the correct way round? Post a picture.

So did you try adjusting the bolt further anti-clockwise? Remove the boost controller altogether and connect the pressure source directly to the actuators to determine the base boost pressure.

If you want my honest opinion, definitely get rid of the side mounts if they are a 2" restriction. Yes, they will reduce intake temps more than stock, but they're a bottleneck you know about before you even begin going down this route. Do as much flow improvement work as you can. Use manual turbos with the A/R 0.63 turbine housings. However, tomfromthenorth had a brilliant result with auto turbos some time ago with a dual intake. His car was a pleasure to drive. No need to uprate the fuel pump, no harm in renewing it. 2.5" IC pipework including intercooler inlets & outlets. Be prepared to run 1.4 bar of boost to achieve your power goal. This will stress the turbos more than running 1 bar. Mine's ECU? You're asking the wrong guy about that I'm afraid :laugh: If you must run a 22 yr old map designed for Japanese high octane fuel then V Power only and invest in some knock monitoring equipment. Jimmer has a nice pic of an engine powered by a Mine's ECU :D

When I look at any car with a view to getting the most out of it, I try and make things as simple as possible. The Zed engine bay layout is anything but. Intake pipework (cold side, pre turbo) needs to be as short & straight as possible. So the filters should be on the turbo compressor inlet whilst running a different MAF configuration. Intercooler pipework needs to be as short as possible and 2.5" minimum ID. So therefore the intercooler(s) wants to be between the rad and the engine. There is only one company that I'm aware of right now that caters for items like this and that is TDM. Hence, you either use one company or you customise available parts and do it that way. My take on side mount intercoolers from a performance point-of-view: Standard equipment swapped out for a large FMIC. That's simply how it is with every other car of a similar vintage. IMO, that is how it should be with the Zed. A car with GT3071Rs worked very well with massive side mounts, Intake temps (IATs) stayed around 40°C at 1.4 bar. But they've since been changed for a FMIC set up with pipework kept as short as possible. It all depends on what you want from the car. The above approach is a no-compromise take on performance. The VG works very well at many different power levels. [rant] I'm seeing a trend at the moment of people spending vast amounts of money (IMO) on turbos and missing out on performance due to not having the correct supporting modifications. Jaffa's comment about hybrids earlier was spot-on, and the same applies to the current GTX range of turbo kits available Stateside. A GTX2860 turbo is designed to run 3 bar of boost. That's 45psi.... This is the whole point of buying billet wheel turbochargers. How on earth will they produce even 1.2 bar of boost at the top end with 15 ft of 2" pipework?? What is the point of buying a turbo designed for 40 psi and only being able to run 20 psi before the boost drops off? Terrible waste of time & money, and it only ends in disappointment. Even worse is the fact people are buying these GTX turbo kits with 14 psi actuators that in reality open at 12 psi. You need to run a minimum of 1.5 bar on a GTX2860R for it to be efficient :wack: The GTX range specified for the Zed is a very odd 'upgrade' unless you're going to run 2+ bar. In order to run 2+ bar on a regular basis with a GTX28xx and maintain that boost pressure to the redline, it's worthwhile considering the following: 2.5" IC pipework minimum, MAF relocation, 20 psi actuators, large front mount, larger throttle bodies, 2.5"-3" turbo elbows into full 3" system, camshaft upgrade, solid tappets, uprated titanium valve springs & retainers, ported & polished cylinder head, port enlarging & matching, gas-flowed plenum & matched to the larger TBs, 850cc injectors or better still a top feed conversion, uprated fuel pump or better still again a lifter pump & swirl pot set up, 1/2" fuel lines, adjustable FPR, possibly water/meth injection to cool the charge, larger radiator, maybe metal head gaskets (stock ones do a great job), larger baffled sump, large oil cooler, forged pistons, forged rods, heavy duty bearings, ARP headstuds, rod bolts, main bolts, knife-edged crank, everything that moves should be lightened & weight matched then the whole lot balanced dynamically (a fully blue-printed bottom end). A GTX turbo set up just isn't suitable for the majority of a Zed owner's requirements IMO. 'Spool' is not a valid argument: The non-billet, ball-bearing GT range is perfectly capable of producing good top end power and great response. IMO, up until 450bhp, the stock units (preferably rebuilt with 360° bearings & uprated seals) at 1.5 bar seem to be the best solution. Until people spec their engines to handle 35psi of boost, GTX turbos seem to be completely pointless on these engines. It'd be good to get someone else's point of view on this, because I'm slightly baffled :laugh: [/rant]

I really have no concept of time, TOTB is actually next weekend and as it stands my car requires the following: Manual conversion Complete new fuel system fitted All the deletes whilst plenum is off T3 manifold conversion Twin T04E fitted Fabricate new V-band turbo elbows Blow-through MAF conversion New mains & big end shells New cambelt & tensioner Complete remap :wack: Worst case scenario, I may have to just stick some T2x-flanged turbos on the lump and make do with it :sad: Rich: I can hopefully map your car next week but it may need to be the same day I have Pete's on the dyno, as I will be spending a lot of time in Bristol with Jimmer hating my very existence :laugh: If anyone else is looking to have their car mapped before TOTB, I will do my utmost to cater for you, but I just can't guarantee it. The Saturday of TOTB is a possibility though as I won't be mapping Tom's that day now. FML.

740s are complete overkill for stock turbos & bolt-ons, just a waste of time but good for future-proofing your set up if they're keenly priced and you plan on fitting turbos with twice the flow capabilities. If you've got them, you may as well fit them. To get the most out of stock turbos, you need to uprate everything: Manifolds, turbo elbows, 2.5" exhaust, 2.5" intercooler piping (preferably custom & short as possible), FMIC (again, custom), short-ram split dual intake. Once all this is complete, you will need to either increase the base fuel pressure or fit larger injectors. With the above set up, the turbos will hold 1.4 bar to 6800 RPM, giving you circa 450bhp and even higher torque. All this without even considering work on the cylinder head, plenum, port matching etc. I'm a big fan of maximising the stock turbo set up, both mine and a customer's car made 480ish lb·ft and the response is spectacular, although my manifolds & elbows were only stock. But there is a lot to consider and it's not worth doing it by halves. Saying that, 99% of Zeds I map are still running the stock 2" intercooler pipework. Despite spending thousands on the latest turbo technology, just to achieve less torque than available from the tiny stock items and be slower in the real world. It's puzzling, and watching the boost dropping off at high RPM is what I expect to see every time I map a Zed :( The VG is so strangled in its stock configuration, it's very ineffective fitting a larger turbo whilst retaining the stock pipework with no headwork. But that goes to show how amazing the VG is, making 300bhp as stock with all that tiny pipework :bow:

Are you doing it by ear or have you got a a readout of the values via Consult or similar? With the IACV, I typically set it so that the AAC value is bang on 15 (this is the lowest value, so in order that it isn't too 'open' without you knowing it, it needs to be at the point when just dropping from 16/17 to 15). I don't remove the plug, because the less the loom is disturbed, the better IMO. The idle RPM value depends on the target RPM set by the ECU map. All adjustments to be done when up to temp and all ancillary items switched off. TPS: Set it to 0.44-0.48v at closed throttle. Then disconnect the 3-pin oval connector to ensure the idle switch is correctly operational. Reconnect the connector after a few seconds. Try disconnecting both O2 sensors and see if your symptoms improve. Setting the idle correctly via the sensors is a 5 minute job whilst monitoring the live data.

Yeah, that's the plan :)

They are/were some noisy tappets!

Haha, there is a lot to do. Engine is out and I've got 95% of parts needed to be competitive this year. But if anything goes awry, me being in the Pulsar won't help with team points. Tom, you have PM :)

What front bumper is on your car?

Main day is Sunday 27th July. Yes, you can buy tickets on the gate. Check out the website for all the info :)

I'm buying a new LS2 FF322.24 helmet to force me to get my arse in gear and get back on the strip. I've not had chance to do any 1/4 miles since last year :( Nearly registered last night, but thought it best to hold off until I know exactly which car I'm going in. Getting excited for it now :thumbup:

Come on mate, it makes no sense to publicly 'leave' a forum due to an issue with one transaction. I personally thought the club had done a good job in mediation, and that's just from the public thread let alone phone calls and anything else behind the scenes. Guess it's your call, but I think it's a bit wet given you own one of my favourite Zeds I've worked with :wack: I know it probably won't help, but the item did work when I mapped the car it came from. I remember it as it was so archaic :wheelchair: All the best either way matey, keep in touch.