Noz

57Ω is way out of spec. ~12Ω for high impedance injectors.

Rebuild your NA engine. High comp power :D

V 20 for voltage. Ω on 200 for injector impedance

From your other thread:

As it's simply a visual represntation of the narrowband lambda output, it is all but completely useless in providing information regarding AFRs. It's a lean-stoich-rich meter: Idle will be yellow, deceleration will be red, acceleration will be green. It would inform the driver when that individual O2 sensor has failed, little else. The IDC meter is pointless as well. If you like building circuits for fun, then fair do's, but for informational purposes neither "gauge" has any real merit. AFR requires a wideband output & controller, aftermarket equipment only on these cars.

Sorry, missed this. With no O2 feedback, it is quite time-consuming mapping an engine for a required AFR at all light load (cruise) sites. Other than that, it's not a problem to do in the slightest. With a lean cruise set up, timing adjustments also need to be taken into consideration as flame propagation (combustion) occurs at a slower rate. With regards to warm-up, O2 feedback is only operational above engine temps of 25°C for UK & US cars and 50°C for JDM TT cars. This is generally-speaking, there are a couple of OEM maps that use O2 feedback from 10°C. There are warm up correction tables for both fuelling & timing. Again, all aspects can be modified & controlled fully during the mapping process. The standard ECU is very versatile.

I've never seen it lower than 15%. Here's some more info from a post I made a while ago: Hope that helps.

Is it a new engine (as in rebuilt), or just a different engine from another car? Were the turbos rebuilt, or are they second hand along with the engine? If the PCV system is the issue (fingers crossed), it can be removed fairly easily. It is there mainly for emissions purposes, recycling blow-by gases into the intake under vacuum. Never been an advocate of having anything other than fresh air getting into an engine's combustion chambers, hence I removed mine a long time ago. Probably why my old stock lump is still going strong after 1.5+ bar for so long. Venting to atmos (or a catch can) also results in more crank ventilation under load. Bad for the environment, great for the engine.... The PCV valves shouldn't be leaking oil, that means there's probably a lot of oil in the inlet manifold. Avoid driving the car hard until you have stopped the engine from ingesting oil, as that's a surefire way of inducing detonation. First of all though, do a compression test. Gives you an indication of what you're working with. Does it breathe heavily? Any fumes puffing out of the dipstick tube? Check the intercooler pipework for oil, could be a turbo issue.

Steve, let me know how you get on when you have chance to look at it :) Edit: What a useless post that was :wack: I've had a PTU fail over the space of a couple days, with symptoms not seeming to be temperature related. I'd offer to pop up and diagnose it for you, but I'm not up that way any time soon :(

I've not watched the video, but you need to wind the IACV screw out a bit, it should be reading 15% on idle with all accessories switched off.

For future reference, the VG30DETT is possibly the worst candidate (along with the Jag V12) to be introduced to a stream of high-pressure water :laugh: Now you know where the term "electrical gremlins" comes from. Technically Mogwai, but you get the idea.

For info, JECS EV1-style connectors, regardless of injector type (side/top feed): Offset notch: High impedance Central notch: Low impedance

Loving the wheels!

Inlet: Short (side) Outlet: Long (bottom) Fuel flow: Tank/pump - filter - upper fuel line - dampener - rail - FPR - lower fuel line - tank Dampener: Inlet: Bottom Outlet: Side

There shouldn't be any blue smoke coming from the exhausts on a new engine after 1000 miles. How new is "new"?

No, I've never said that at all, running less boost will never damage a turbo. I was discussing compressor map efficiency islands of GTX turbos. You run less boost through a larger turbo to achieve the same peak outcome due to airflow.

ECUs use hysteresis when the RPM level reaches the limit, meaning the engine speed must drop a certain amount before injection cycles begin again. This is adjustable with some Motronic ECUs I've worked with. In the scenario you gave, the power output will be oscillating between xxxbhp (fuel injected) and zero bhp (fuel cut), hence speed remains fairly constant. It is impossible for an engine to make power when fuel has been cut to all cylinders. But yeah, shitty driving :wack:

Sorry, missed this post. I'm not sure I understand your question, there shouldn't be any lean condition during acceleration.

It was the same on my XJR as well, thinking about it.

I know the car and the reason it has been at stockish power is due to it not having been mapped. Mark (Automodz) has worked on it, give him a call and have a chat :)

Good to hear.

This is why it's easier to have it monitored by someone good with Nissans whilst the issue is occurring, ie. A rolling road session. Saves a load of time & money and identifies any problems immediately. A MAF that is outputting a lower reading than the OEM-specified voltage for the corresponding airflow will result in detonation, particularly in the transitional areas of the map (when the car is coming onto boost).

Every 90s turbocharged car I've worked with is exactly the same. My old MR2 Turbo could hit 110 deg C whilst the guage sat comfortably in the middle, only beginning to move a tiny amount. As Mr Bolt states: cold, normal, overheated. That's all Joe Public ever needs to know :)

I don't know of any Zeds other than Jaffa's and mine that run custom intercooler pipework. As it stands, I don't have any compressor inlet piping, just some mesh.

I think fitting a 'charger is more of a performance-oriented modification :biggrin: