Noz

Were the hores boned properly? If it was rich on start up, then you can glaze the bores and it is back to the drawing board. When I ran a brand new Cosorth YB in many moons ago, I ran it on a standard map with standard injectors and low boost. There are various ways of breaking an engine in, but your engine builder should have a preferred method.

Sorry about the delay for the prices, I just wanted to do as much testing as possible. The pumps are perfect, incredibly quiet in operation and fit without issue in the standard bracket. I ran my car dry and even then the noise when priming the AEM was quieter than standard. I'm placing an order with AEM shortly for those that are interested. Genuine AEM of course, no Chinese knock-off Walbros in disguise :) AEM pump on the left compared to standard pump fitted into the bracket: AEM pump on the right fitted to the fuel pump bracket compared to standard pump on the left:

You don't run 15psi on a freshly built engine. Standard boost only. Did the builder not give specific instructions for running in? If you're blowing the dipstick out, it's pressurising the crankcase. 120-130psi is way too low for a fresh engine, it shouldn't be smoking at all even at 30 psi of boost, they're all features of a very worn & tired engine I'm afraid. I'd assume that the bores were glazed when you decided to run high boost, unless it's a badly-built engine which also sounds like the case as boost pipes should not be popping off. What map are you using for running in? Turn the boost down to 9psi, drive it under load and snap the throttle shut. Do the same from high revs. I reckon it's too late and you're going to have to have the bores rehoned and run it in properly.

LOL! Who was the "mechanic". That's hilarious! Bushes, shocks, tyres. Check the lower rear ball joints. My offside one was gone and it shot me off to the right in 2nd gear in the damp.

Can't find any!

Ok. Your idle is too low when cold. At 15°C it should be at 1213 RPM, at 30°C it should be 1200 RPM. Assuming it's not been mapped differently, the AAC valve is unable to open enough when the engine is warming up, hence the stalling and 90% value. Once the car warms up, the engine requires less additional air to maintain idle conditions, hence AAC% decreases to obtain the correct idle RPM. However, readings when hot are spot on (RPM is a little high). Inj pulsewidth difference between hot & cold is good, timing, AAC, MAF voltage are all where they should be for a stock fuel system. The last two are of no help as they are transient values (constantly changing due to lambda feedback). If you adjust the AAC to raise the idle RPM and stop it stalling when cold, it will idle high when warm. I would suggest removing & cleaning the entire IACV assembly.

The OP originally mentioned myself as a trader, I specifically mentioned Power Zed due to proximity and that it could be a collaborative drive-in drive-out effort if that is what he was looking for. Still not happy about the "all traders" blanket reference in your posts, so the tone of my text is likely to come across as defensive, simply as I have posted on this thread. I would prefer to delete my posts and keep well out of it in hindsight, but it's a bit late for that. End of the day, none of this is now helping OP, he has quite a few options by the look of it. But I don't want my posts being misinterpreted due to the "ALL TRADERS this & that" stance you have taken, for whatever reason. Thanks for your understanding. Anywho...... I'm going back to deciphering Conzult voltage readings. It's 15, by the way.

:lol: :lol:

ECUs required ASAP. Must be in perfect working order. Thanks :D

Cylinder 5 at 75psi, increasing to 90psi with oil in the bore will most likely be damaged ringlands, definitely not a valve issue. Did it smoke & breathe heavily? Cylinder 4 doesn't look too clever, but that's a strange value, neither here nor there :wack: There's too much timing on the Mine's ECU, it's not meant for the UK. The only way to safely run with JDM ECUs is to use race fuel or knock the base timing back roughly 10°, which would make it sluggish and thirsty. Sure, I can provide a suitable running in chip when you need one.

Yup, coolant was below 40°C :smartass: Timing will sit at 35° until engine temp hits 40°C. That is fine, nothing wrong there. With regards to the idle speed & AAC voltage, is it running a manual or automatic ECU? Were the readings taken immediately after starting or had it warmed up a bit?

:crying::crying::crying:

The lower end of the 350-400 bhp range doesn't require anything other than a boost increase & a map, even with cats & stock side mount intercoolers. I would expect that the stock ECU map would run close to 350bhp without too much trouble, but the timing could be a bit too advanced. It's definitely not all about the numbers, but the set up is way over-specced for your power goals. Not in any way a bad thing though, and it gives you plenty of headroom for future upgrades :) What caused the loss of compression?

Hold on a moment. I'm a trader on here and haven't thought that in any way, shape or form. Just to ensure I am not caught up in any political hoo-ha, I simply mentioned his best course of action is to take it to Jimmer @ Power Zed, based both on location and experience. According to his original post, he is already going to be using my services (he doesn't have to, there are plenty of mappers out there), and I am not in any way interested in undertaking the mechanical work (couldn't think of anything worse). I always suggest people use Jimmer for work like this, especially if I have to subsequently work on a car that required major mechanical work beforehand. Just like to make that crystal clear.

Indeed, the VG30DETT is better in every way than the RB26. Except for the sound. The Skylines have a more motorsport-oriented pedigree though. I've owned a 500+bhp 4dr R32 with full R33 GTR running gear. It was immense. Reminded me of my Cosworth, just something you want to wash every day and keep looking perfect. I don't get the same feeling from the Z32, even though I always wanted one from when I was young.

I take it those readings were taken when cold. Repeat when up to temperature.

What about them?

The important thing is that the work is completed to a high & professional standard. There is nothing worse than having a car turn up for mapping with build or installation issues. I recommend you speak to Jimmer in this case. I work very closely with him and you will get all the support you need in pretty much a drive-in drive-out scenario, if that is what you're looking for. This would include mapping as I travel down to Bristol for this exact reason. And the cider he feeds me on

IMO, GReddy Profec or Profec B Spec 2

The compressor flows more air so you will gain power throughout without lag issues, but from experience I guarantee that boost will not be maintained to the RPM limit. This is why I am so keen to get a pair of T3 turbos on my VG to test, as they are more geared towards top end performance, whilst boost threshold (improperly referred to as "lag") issues aren't exactly prevalent on a 3L V6.

Standard engine is fine at 500bhp, which is a forgotten option sometimes :D Power Zed is close to you, top notch work.

Ah, I thought they were 2871s. No turbocharger should smoke, it's a sign of damaged seals.

Hopefully I'll get to work with the car again and be able to report the results for these specific turbos. Price is competitive, but the concern is the top end performance if the spec of the hot side is the same as stock.

Are Dan's turbos GT2871Rs? They're a lot different to what Mark & I have been talking about. What exactly are your plans for the car?

Compressor wheel, not plural. It's the dimensions of the compressor wheel & turbine wheel that dictate the nomenclature & more importantly the performance. CHRA = core. We're not talking about the central housing. According to the advert in question, it uses a T28 compressor wheel. There is no mention of changing the turbine wheel. It is not a GT28 core based on that information.