Noz

Hello & welcome! Plenty there to keep you busy, nice looking Zed though.

I have too much torque for a RWD Automatic car with no traction control. Way too much torque :D

Nothing to do with me, just giving my own experience regarding incompatibility. All the best with it.

It's not necessarily faulty. I made a basemap for someone and it did exactly the same thing. Twice. All that needs to be done is to swap the known good chip into the problem ECU first of all. If it works, then it's a software issue. This can then be rectified easily enough by programming the Impul map data in conjunction with the working base image onto a fresh EPROM :)

It's not necessarily faulty. I made a basemap for someone and it did exactly the same thing. Twice. All that needs to be done is to swap the known good chip into the problem ECU first of all. If it works, then it's a software issue. This can then be rectified easily enough by programming the Impul map data in conjunction with the working base image onto a fresh EPROM :)

No it won't. It's a faulty/incompatible chip.

No it won't. It's a faulty/incompatible chip.

I've never really used Datascan other than for a quick look years ago, Nistune does everything I need and I've used that for so many years I've never had to bother with any other diagnostic software for Nissans. Got an idea, so PM coming your way. Edit: ...or not, Mr Registered User. What's your email addy?

I've never really used Datascan other than for a quick look years ago, Nistune does everything I need and I've used that for so many years I've never had to bother with any other diagnostic software for Nissans. Got an idea, so PM coming your way. Edit: ...or not, Mr Registered User. What's your email addy?

He 110% does NOT want the stock grade 6 platinums in his engine :blink: Plug gaps need to be the largest possible without the spark being blown out under load in modified applications. Manufacturer's stock values/recommendations don't apply :) Draxan, your issue is an odd one, and one that didn't occur whilst on the dyno, so it's quite difficult to diagnose. Have you been able to determine which cylinder has the issue, and is it the same every time? I don't recommend bouncing your car off the limiter, but it will be necessary in this case. When it drops a cylinder, quickly remove the coil pack connectors one-by-one (no change in engine note means that particular cylinder isn't firing). Once you have found out which cylinder is affected, cause the misfire to happen again and check to see if the injector is firing (long flat-head screwdriver on the injector with the handle pressed against your ear). If it is, and if you can confirm which cylinders are not affected, swap a coil pack from a known good cylinder. If the problem changes to a good cylinder, replace the coil pack. If the problem stays with the same cylinder, inspect the wiring. Report your findings back on here and contact me on Facebook/email/text if required :)

He 110% does NOT want the stock grade 6 platinums in his engine :blink: Plug gaps need to be the largest possible without the spark being blown out under load in modified applications. Manufacturer's stock values/recommendations don't apply :) Draxan, your issue is an odd one, and one that didn't occur whilst on the dyno, so it's quite difficult to diagnose. Have you been able to determine which cylinder has the issue, and is it the same every time? I don't recommend bouncing your car off the limiter, but it will be necessary in this case. When it drops a cylinder, quickly remove the coil pack connectors one-by-one (no change in engine note means that particular cylinder isn't firing). Once you have found out which cylinder is affected, cause the misfire to happen again and check to see if the injector is firing (long flat-head screwdriver on the injector with the handle pressed against your ear). If it is, and if you can confirm which cylinders are not affected, swap a coil pack from a known good cylinder. If the problem changes to a good cylinder, replace the coil pack. If the problem stays with the same cylinder, inspect the wiring. Report your findings back on here and contact me on Facebook/email/text if required :)

Have Yellow Stuff all round in mine, stopped brilliantly with no fade at all several times from 140mph. Very impressed with them.

Have Yellow Stuff all round in mine, stopped brilliantly with no fade at all several times from 140mph. Very impressed with them.

That will be due to the 9:1 AFR that occurs with a faulty or incompatible chip/ECU combination. You do not want to drive it like that.

It's best not to throw money at replacing components to try and solve issues. Did you get a proper diagnostic done as suggested back in July? I don't just mean checking for codes, but having the complete sensor readout whilst the engine is running and being driven. Even better, take it to someone and get an AFR readout for each bank. This is the most efficient (both in time & money) method of diagnosing issues. Having just watched the video for the first time, that's not a misfire at all. A misfire is when you lose a cylinder. As per this post: It's probably just a lazy O2 sensor in conjunction with a badly-adjusted AAC valve. Diagnose it properly, will save you time & money. As an aside, I had a car in for mapping not long ago that was very similar to that, but that was due to the injector latency value being so far out of whack (generic chip issue).

I had that on mine, needed some torx bits hammered into them. As for any other issues, it's the same as with any recently-purchased vehicle, irrespective of make: Compression test & diagnostic check to ensure all sensors are within range & operating correctly. Then basic service items if there's nothing else that needs looking at.

Half the engine is down on compression and it's pushing coolant out a plug hole.

Not much more to suggest other than a comp test I'm afraid. If it's spat coolant out of the plug hole, is producing smoke out the back with what appears to be coolant, then coolant is getting into the combustion chamber. It's still very difficult to diagnose over the internet without knowing exactly what is going on. Honestly, it would have been quicker to do a compression test. The results will then tell you what to look into next. If you don't want to, then turn it over again and keep an eye on the plug hole to see if coolant is definitely being expelled from the combustion chamber so you are 100% sure. If it spits coolant out and you see it happening, you know there are serious issues.

There are videos..... 10:1 AFRs do not smoke like that in the video. It is completely different. If I run my car at 10:1, there is no smoke on idle. It will be different on boost. I've dealt with many a car that is down a cylinder due to either no spark or no fuel, and they have not smoked like the car in the video.

I've had a Zed in that was running on four due to two injectors not firing. It didn't pump smoke out the back at all. Even AFRs as rich as 10:1 don't cause smoke like that. A compression test is one of the most basic yet informative tests you can do. If it was my car, that is what I would be doing first & foremost if I had lost a cylinder and it was smoking out the back.

You're supposed to remove all the plugs & keep the throttle open for an accurate result. You'll need about 45mins.

If you really must, but you may as well just remove all the plugs and do all the cylinders as it's important to get compression values for the adjacent cylinders accurately.

Do a compression test first of all.

Mine's broken :D

Glad you're finally able to enjoy the car as intended :D The rev counter itself is out if I remember correctly.