Noz

Recently did a basic chip analysis for someone which highlights the issues of running unknown chips in UK Zeds. The comparative map is 41P13 JDM Auto upon which the modified map is based on. Fuelling & Timing Differences: Fuelling is pulled in a very basic manner. One thing that the tune does have going for it is the fact the final load column is actually increased to compensate for the additonal air flow (load) caused by increasing the boost levels. Unlike the JWT chips. Timing is advanced in an equally simplistic way. Typically +4° advanced at high load & +5 or +6° advanced in the transitional region (coming onto boost where knock is most likely to happen). Fuelling & Timing Values: The timing map is the one of interest here as the fuelling values are arbitrary in the above image. 28° on full boost at 4400RPM. That's race fuel territory if you want your pistons to survive. Thankfully the VG30DETT is incredibly strong and resists knock well (check out a Rover T16 engine for the opposite end of the scale), but the cumulative damage will take its toll eventually. Sooner rather than later if used in anger on a regular basis. Timing Knock/Safety Map & RPM Limits: The safety map is identical to the normal timing map, so when knock is detected in the knock-enabled regions, the timing remains unaltered whereas with OEM tunes, the timing is retarded to protect the engine. Fuelling safety map is unaltered from OEM, thankfully. Not a problem if the map was suitable for UK fuels in the first place, as it wouldn't detonate if tuned correctly. RPM Limit of 10,000. Nothing more really needs to be said about this. This is very similar to the Central20 ECU map I've analysed in the past. They would have been programmed a long time ago when technology was relatively limited for aftermarket tuning. Also, very important to note is that the timing on the JDM 41P13 map is already borderline for use with UK fuels.

Never drive a car that's dropped a cylinder if the injector is still firing. Change the oil as soon as you can and hope you haven't glazed the bore. You only get water (as in steam/white smoke) if the head gasket has gone between bore & waterway. I'm assuming the plug doesn't spark when grounded against the plenum?

I posted years ago on SXOC about the all-conquering & ubiquitous Apexi cone filter being a bit pants on my S13 after fitting a cheapo eBay special. Never bothered with them since, just stuck with the trusty K&N M's filter. ....And today I fitted a rear strut brace for my 3" Sabelt belts to be fixed to.

You need a chip programmed to run the correct injectors at the very least. This is a 'basemap', and will get your car running so you can drive it to be mapped. If it's a fresh build, it is imperative that the basemap doesn't overfuel, so it's still not a case of using any old chip you find.

I'm not really an advocate of generic chips, but can indeed supply one of my own if required. Programmed using NIStune, fully developed on the dyno in the UK on UK fuel for various set-ups, boost levels & power output. They're not cheap though :) It's not only the injector size to consider, there are the turbo specs to think about. This is the most important aspect which is always overlooked for some reason. With every other Nissan model that can be 'chipped', it's always the case that the MAF, injector, turbo type & boost level are all specified and need to be adhered to. There are a lot of very badly programmed/mapped chips out there. Recently pulled one from a car that was nothing more than a very crude basemap, complete with errors in the closed-loop fuelling and various other anomalies. Only had it in his ECU for about a week, costly mistake. There are various chips out there on the internet available for free as well. Good enough to get you up & running, but that's it.

I thought it had been sorted? :confused1:

Nearly 2 years between 390 & 450 bhp, up to 480+ lbft and a max of 1.68 bar with many launches up the dragstrip before giving up the ghost at TOTB :( Still drivable, just....

I've heard the DMC-12 failed to hit the required 88mph quickly enough and slammed into a 7-Eleven. Doc is pissed.

Is that the same engine or the one removed from your car? Edit: Never mind, it's a different engine.

The engine would have come from the exact same car regardless, as Richard would have bought the whole car if I hadn't had bought it first if I recall correctly. All I know is that the engine & turbos were in very good condition with no smoke, rattles, sensor faults or otherwise. Removed on Sunday, delivered on Monday. An engine that's been stood for months in anything but dry conditions needs to be pulled apart and checked at any rate. Main thing now is to determine the reason for the failed turbochargers.

Checking for play in a turbo shaft tells you a lot about the state of the bearings if you know what you're looking for. Fitting second hand parts is also something I have done a lot of on various cars, with the only main failure being the aforementioned T3. IMO, there is zero point in fitting any more turbos without determining if oil is getting to the bearing or not.

When seals fail due to reduced back pressure, it is nothing like the symptoms your car had. The turbo suffered catastrophic bearing failure. The turbos were spot on when I bought the car from Ken, with the engine being removed maybe a week later and delivered to you straight away (can't remember the exact timescale). I once fitted an old Cosworth T3 that had been lying around in dry storage for a couple of years, and that survived 6 months at 1.5 bar before the bearings went. So how many turbos have failed now? What turbos are on the engine now (can't quite follow where it's at I'm afraid). If it's happening with your other turbos from your own engine, I would suspect oil delivery issues if turbos keep failing.

It's imperative to allow oil pressure to build before running an engine that has been stood. Priming is essential.

Leon? I sourced and maintain an Ibiza TDi 130 Sport for someone and typical Seat build quality is nasty.

I hope that's a finger on the very right hand side of that pic....

Fill the filter with new oil as best as possible. Fill the sump until it is at the top line of the dipstick. Crank over until oil light goes out. Allow oil to drain back to the sump. Check level. Top up as necessary. Rinse & repeat if required. Only then start it up. Run it for a little while whilst checking for leaks. Switch off, allow oil to drain back to the sump, top up as necessary. Obviously be aware of the amount of oil you're putting in, but simply use the dipstick first & foremost. Just don't put in 4.5L-5L, whatever you do :blink:

I actually prefer my Zed now it's fairly stripped out (no rear seats, door cards, trim & a CF bucket seat). First car I don't want to put the interior back into after removing it.

Where's it gone to?

I'm sat on a stool behind the door working.

:confused1:

Congratulations :)

Hello & Welcome :)

When you're responsible for mapping a car running over 700bhp & 650lbft on a stock bottom end it pays to be nice and comfy :laugh:

390bhp is pedestrian for a VG30DETT, no matter how long in the tooth :laugh: As long as it's done properly of course :D

Saw this the other day. Remapped by Nismo indeed :slap: