Everything posted by Noz
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I'm the trader. This is what was said, exactly: Hi, Apologies for the delay. I will need to diagnose the car to determine what's wrong with it. It drove perfectly whilst I road-tested it, was very happy with the results. The mapping session showed nothing was wrong with it at all, apart from lazy O2 sensors. With regards to the damage, I really cannot fathom what happened there, I have got good bodywork guys over this way, the quotes seemed a bit excessive IMO. Kind regards, Noel. The only reason I mentioned the fact that I have good bodywork guys over this way is that you said the car is running badly and it would cost a fortune, therefore I would be able to diagnose the issues and sort the dent out at the same time. The car was transported to me by a 3rd party, you did say he had shown you pictures, but I haven't seen any to show the damage wasn't caused before it got here. You also said on the phone to me you would pay £50 of the quote. I then said I would see if I've got anyone near to you that would do it. With regards to your car running badly now, this was posted by yourself after the drive home: I would agree with that, it ran perfectly both on the dyno and afterwards. -
Can't speak for anyone else, but myself: Coppers, yes. Iridiums/platinums, no.
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If you want your car mapping, I can sort it as part of that :thumbup1:
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Not so I've noticed on any of my cars I've taken up the strip. 2.3 bar will be straining the turbo plenty, a bit of air rebounding back from the throttle plate and tickling the blades isn't going to matter. It's all horses for courses though. You've got atmospheric for the psst noise, recirc for emissions & noise control, or none for the fluttering noise and no leaks for big boost. I go with the latter, because it's one less component (or 2 in the case of the Zed) that can be problematic. My stock Auto turbos have been running 1.4-1.5 bar with no pressure relief valve of any kind for quite some time.
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All dump valves are rubbish, unless you're buying them cheap and like the noise. I've run everything from Forge to Baileys to HKS (gen & fake) to a GFB Bovus Maximus, and yet I still remove them all after a couple of weeks. Current cars with no dump valve at all are my Pulsar (1.9 bar), MR2 (2.3 bar) and Zed (1.5 bar). Also my Musso TD at 1 bar :wack:
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Iridiums last longer & cost more initially. Coppers wear out and cost a bit more in the long run. Iridiums are a thin-wire precious metal plug, coppers have a large centre electrode which I prefer due to the type of driving I do which includes dyno time & drag racing. If you're only doing 1500 miles a year, I can't see any point at all in choosing iridiums, though.
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Cheap eBay version works just as well as the genuine item.
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That's due to unmetered air being emitted at idle. Single piston BOVs are no good for cars with MAFs. HKS SSQVs work fine, they are different in design to other dump valves.
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Price, condition & current spec?
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Having monitored fuelling on BOV-equipped cars with MAF sensors, they didn't go rich enough to cause borewash. Stock AFRs on Nissans & Toyotas from the 90s run into the 10s at any rate. If you're just after the noise, you can't beat a closed system in my opinion. No BOVs, no recircs, just flutter/chatter/pigeon on every lift.
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How much power are you running? What tyres? Which track was the 13.17s at? What does it run at Santa Pod?
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Genuine Rat Look. Impressive.
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Go for Green :D
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It just made the car really quiet and it seemed slower (this was years & years ago when I only had my butt dyno to go on). Before that I had an eBay special of some description. People at the time thought I was mad. There's a well-known test on the internet that people take as gospel, did some digging years back and it wasn't as unbiased as everyone believes. You can buy a Z32 MAF adaptor and fit any air filter you wish. I like Green air filters too, got a huge one on the Pulsar which uses a Z32 MAF.
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:lol: :lol: Pink or brown?? Always a conundrum, that one...
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Just wondering, is my name supposed to change colour or am I staying Trader Brown?
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Indeed. I don't run any at all and it chatters like a good 'un when I lift.
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I hated the Apexi on my S13 years ago. Not used one since. I have twin HKS filters down where the stock intercoolers should be. Been spot on so far. I find K&N M's to be good as well.
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Is that the same test where the HKS filter did bery badly?
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It's one of the best cars to come out of Japan, of course it goes well & handles well :clap:
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Yes, Z32 MAF adaptor is needed.
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Cone filter. You need to remove as much restriction as possible in both the intake & exhaust systems with these cars, and indeed any turbocharged vehicle when looking to maximise performance.
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It's just the expansion/overflow tank. Open the rad cap to see the coolant in the system :)
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Nope, it's all much the same. Single air filter or twin air filter on a single intake won't make much difference. I used to run a similar set up to the Autobahn HKS knock-off effort, but with genuine HKS filters instead.
