lymon

Well compared to eg. the new Blitz RVIT controller... Blitz DSBC RVIT II : Blitz R-VIT is available for Nissan CONSULT diagnostic port equipped cars (R-VIT Type II) or OBDII diagnostic port equipped cars (R-VIT Type I). The R-VIT plugs into the diagnostic port, allowing it to display a variety of information, including: tach, speed, water temp, ignition timing, injector duty cycle, airflow, throttle position, battery voltage, O2 sensors, and more.

All blitz controllers: VERY good. simple and effective. Apexi's: complicated crap ;) look nice and have lots of features, but have a tendency to overshoot and that's what a boostcontroller should prevent !! Greddy's: very good, but pricey. HKS : dunno

you'll need a middle sized pulley puller for the pulling the crank pulley and loosening the crankpulley bolt can be a bit of a pain, especially with automatics. -Eric

bolt pattern of US turbos is exactly the same as EURO/JSPEC/UK. removing the engine to fit downpipes ?...don't think so. I think you're confused with the gearbox, which has to be removed to get good access.. -Eric

All TT Z's have a MAP sensor used for the dash boostgauge and '95+ Z's do have a MAP (and MAF) sensor used by the ECU The black box you mean is the MAP sensor for the dash boostgauge, not used by the ECU. If it's leaking or not connected you will have false/no readings from the boostgauge, it shouldn't affect the running of the engine

Sorry, I didn't see you also mentioned decat/test pipes. If you get the combo down + testpipes it should fit. if you just get the downpipes, it won't fit... -Eric

The turbos are basically all the same, but the Jspec's have different downpipes so the US/EURO spec pipes won't fit. -Eric

it's probably flashing an error code: All 10 flashes the same = No error codes detected. 1st flash longer than others = Revolution sensor is shorted or disconnected. 2nd flash longer than others = Speed sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected. 3rd flash longer than others = Throttle sensor circuit is shorted or disconnected. 4th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid "A" circuit is shorted or disconnected 5th flash longer than others = Shift solenoid "B" circuit is shorted or disconnected 6th flash longer than others = Overrun clutch solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected 7th flash longer than others = Lock-up solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected 8th flash longer than others = Fluid temperature sensor is disconnected or A/T control unit power source circuit is damaged. 9th flash longer than others = Engine revolution signal circuit is shorted or disconnected 10th flash longer than others = Line pressure solenoid circuit is shorted or disconnected http://twinturbo.net/ttnettech/autodiag/autodiag.html

It's best to remove it with a special bushing puller, hammer-like tool. It is especially for removing bearings and bushings like this. It is available in most mechanical workshops, so maybe you can borrow one ? (since these pullers are quite expensive) it looks like this: http://www.midlock.nl/Adobe_catalogus_NL/Groep_N/binnenlagerslagtrekker.pdf -Eric

not sure if this of any use (since a US tire/wheels company) http://www.tirerack.com/upgrade_garage/WheelSearch.jsp?&autoMake=Nissan&autoModel=300ZX+Turbo&autoYear=1990

Oh BTW... it's a myth that BB turbos have faster spoolup. The lag of a ballbearing turbo is the same or sometimes even a little bit worse compared to a similar sized turbo with an old type thrust bearing It is true however that ballbearing turbos have BETTER spoolup (once the boost starts to build) and they keep spinning much longer (which you'll notice between shifts).

The Sport500's are really good and have a proven (good) reputation that already exists for many years.. Spool up is same as stock, but they can boost up to 1.6-1.7bar without major efficiency loss, where the stock turbos run out of puff around 1.1bar. (...mind you'll need at least bigger injectors first if you want to run these kinds of boostlevels.) the 530BB's seem to be very good also...and they don't require a core charge. So no additional costs of sending in your old turbos and you could sell your old turbos, if those are still alive.. Another cheap upgrade seems to be the Z1 stage 1 turbos. They have slightly higher flow rates as the sport500's, are cheaper and come with all needed gaskets and stuff.. They don't have the proven reputation of the 500's though..

it should hold up fine, as long as you use it for lifting the engine only (without gearbox)...just put the bolts in as far as possible or use slightly longer bolts. I've lifted several engines this way. -Eric

It's where the bolts go into the engine, not the bracket.....it is around that location Sorry...haven't got a better picture -Eric

Be careful! If you use the mounts, the engine may tilt. Better way is to put the bolts back in the location where the plenum used to be attached with (on both sides of the engine, see picture) And then use a chain, attached to these bolts to lift the engine. Works fine...I always do it like this, since I don't like the engine to be lifted by the plenum :) -Eric

similar looking bumper: http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.aspx?forum=general&msg_id=1026123

Actuator controller/ecu get it's signals from the HICAS ecu. Actually the US spec suspension is far from "squidgy" The "touring mode" is very similar to the EURO spec's stiffness, the "sport mode" is harder then the Jspec's suspension. -Eric

try Kuah at splparts.com -Eric

What about swapping the brackets ? (at least that is what I did with my new NA>TT conversion project) -Eric

put a socket that's just large enough to fit over the plastic cap and you can use a wrench or something similar to press it out without damaging the cap. You can also use a hammer to get it out. Hint: make sure you have something soft (like a towel) under the rail, so when the injector falls out it isn't damaged. -Eric

first check the fuse and the fuelpump controller. especially the controller is known to fail (or actually the powertransistors in the controller)

NA's don't have an engine oilcooler. The NA oilfilter bracket is different and doesn't have the connections for the cooler. You could upgrade to a TT oilfilter bracket or buy one of those sandwich plate thingies. -Eric

Our stock turbos have internal wastegates A wastegate becomes "external" when it is no longer part of the turbo housing as you can see in this picture, the small turbos like the TD025 and TD04 have an internal wastegate...everything larger has an external wastegate. -Eric

Do you have a manual or auto ? The manual NA is actually quicker off the line then a TT (...that is until the turbos kick in) The weight of our cars and power at the rearwheels make it not very suitable for "trafficlight" racing... The motorway is more Z32's territory...especially for the TT

it's the car of a dodgy nightclub owner :D