JeffTT

Be aware that to fit that single rear light panel some metal has been cut out where the original lights fit, you will need to make good the missing lights retaining metal panels. Jeff

That is a new one on me Si ??? never ever seen that in my all my years around them? are you basing that on issue in the US zed scene? Why would you consider the N/A engine less able to last, less stress and better oil lubrication in the sump / pistons etc? just asking Na nor me, a manual n/a with free flow headers and exhaust will fly down country lanes like a scolded cat with a smart generic chip and a couple degrees of advance on the timing, fit twin turbo spark plugs and do regular oil changes and all will be fine, often considered more usable than a TT in everyday traffic, of course a TT will have more power through the whole rev range but an N/A can have its own fun bits. Jeff

Agree !! they keep reposting crap that is nothing more than "like farming" never check it out just repost / share arghhhh!! Jeff

Crazy valuation there ! for 28k you could have a Vantage !!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aston-Martin-Vantage-4-3-V8-Manual-Coupe-/162263334766?hash=item25c7a5ff6e:g:mWMAAOSwnbZYF1mg or for a few grand more than the pug this beast !!!!!!! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2005-ASTON-MARTIN-V8-VANTAGE-/282296593648?hash=item41ba302cf0:g:E0IAAOSwNRdYBi1q

Looking good !!! but starting price of £37k for the 2.0 litre model not in the keeping of bargain bucket Kia rides.. http://www.autotrader.co.uk/content/news/2017-kia-stinger-gt-first-look Jeff

Are there really people still falling for this fools though ?? Jeff

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How old is your Merc? if it is canbus electrical system it may throw a code or lights out alert, if so you can buy canbus cancellers on ebay. Jeff

Sunday was first BBQ of the new year a little sunbathing for us and the pup, and even got a little time down the beach before getting back after a very tiring day for Carli, pooped was the word ! Jeff

Yes I like the spoiler too, the MOT history though is exemplary and rare to find. Jeff

Not everyone`s cup of tea a convertible but as they go this one is super nice, did a quick MOT check and wow what a perfect record !! Price is subjective of course but what a nice car. Jeff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NISSAN-300-ZX-3-0-MANUAL-CONVERTIBLE-LOW-MILES-HIGH-SPEC-EXCEPTIONAL-/172372811514?hash=item2822385efa:g:ov0AAOSwzaJX~ngN

So Carli the new puppy is home..... Jeff

What clutch was fitted before and what condition was it in? not all covers use the same bearing carrier, if there was no free play then it will wear out very quickly. Jeff

It primes and then waits for a start signal, easy way to run it is by earthing out the earth (white) cable at the pump end, will run with just ignition on then, of course extreme care is required when transferring fuel / petrol from the tank to another vessel, vapour build up can be huge and not something to do inside a domestic garage. Jeff

Car values are very subjective and individual to every car as condition, mileage etc. can be all factors in pricing. Saying that at £6 with NO Mot regardless of reason is cheeky to say the least, also he mentions paint work required, not really a great sale point. £3K to £4k would be more realistic but still dependant on any corrosion work required / inspection, best thing it has going for it is it is an R reg. but that also means : next to no pile carpet in the cabin, and even thinner in the boot area, missing insulation from the boot, rear lights area and inner panels, less insulation to the floor and almost non existent under seal protection, basic ac/ heater controls and no vvvt all issues caused by the factory bean counters on the later models. As a comparison the zed below for £500 more would like a steal.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-300zx-Z32-Twin-Turbo-STROSEK-Wide-Body-MANUAL-FSH-400-bhp-MOT/252708114300?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D38661%26meid%3D30b138dbd6f0410baa7369efb6fbc747%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D282315397079 Jeff

No easy way, tank removal is safest option really, or you could use the fuel pump with a feed line disconnected and return clamped off to empty it into a container, check the fuel pump strainer also, siphoning is slow. Jeff

So to those that know us at Zedworld we lost Cassie our 10 year old labrador back in June last year, and Libby our German Shepard 2 years previously, both regular workshop visitor`s that made us and our customers feel at ease, loosing them both left us feeling low and once Cassie was gone unwilling to have another dog, but six months later ..... .... and to those that have been there, they will understand the moment you again catch eye with a little beauty that makes you look twice, and you realise it could be time to think again. So off on a 120 miles trip to Lisbon to visit the potentially new addition to our family, 30 years having dogs looks to be continued...... :clap: Jeff

Ok your kind of all correct, it works similar to a map sensor as it has both electrical and a vacuum connection, however as there is still an air flow meter been used its not strictly been used as a map sensor. The later 16 bit ecu has a larger map logging capability and the extra signal is been used to directly compare the air flow meter reading and the absolute manifold pressure. Having the extra processing power the 16 bit ecu can use the extra signals primarily for economy and emission correction. The sensor is a generic unit common to many Nissan cars including the 200sx and Skyline, as far as the 300zx is concerned it was to comply with ever increasing emissions regulations when new and very likely the US market sales domination. Jeff

Ok the fan is easy to access without major dash work, the power for the fan is from two fuses in the drivers footwell fuseboard and is marked up on the lid / panel. Pull the fuses and check with ignition on if there is power to the fuses. The fuse box can fail as can the auxiliary relay on the back and not switch the bus line feed to these fuses. Another problem can be the fan speed resister, to check this by removing the glove box and the small cloth curtain behind there. You will see a silver assembly screwed into the heater box duct, check for power in and out there. The fan itself is accessed by looking up from the passenger footwear and can be removed easily if the motor is stuck or failed. Jeff

Ok firstly forget anything now connected with the air con side of the system as with the removed items mean it now only operates as a conventional heater but with reduced climate control as Jim mentioned the two normally operate as one unless in economy mode, you now have only economy mode. So the heat is regulated by both the flow of water through the matrix been reduced or increased via the valve and also by various air mixer flaps, all in conjunction with pod temperature setting and the cabin and duct temp sensors. So to your problem, the valve to the heater matrix is not shutting off when cold is selected, this is could be due to the operation cable on the valve not connected correctly or the return spring missing. But the most common reason is one or both duct temp sensors under the drivers knee panel are disconnected as this causes a fault and an internal duct temp of -50c which is why the matrix valve is not closing down. Remove the knee pads and check if there are two plastic ducting in place, if not that's the problem if they are check the two connections are in place as it is really common to find they have previously been removed and forgotten to reattach them. Jeff

Think the confusion your having is that two of the camshaft pulleys fit inside of the cam seals and two just butt up to them. If you look at the 4 camshaft pulleys you will notice the rear parts are different as two of them are part of the variable valve timing and fit differently. The cam end seals are all the same size the two outer ones seal to the camshaft, the two inner ones seal to the pulleys. See in the picture below, new cam seals fitted on on left seals to the camshaft, the on on the right has a gap, this gap is filled when the pulleys is fitted as it sliders inside the seal. See a thread of mine from time ago about leaks and fitting cam seals below. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?146525-Oil-leaks&highlight=Cam+seals Jeff

The fold back motor has an inherent problem that causes it to fail but replacement is usually not required. The small range the motor moves in does not give the brushes enough time to clean the commutator, this slowly gets dirty and breaks the contact electrically to the stator. So remove the motor and with no gears attached to limit range of movement spin it by hand several times back and forward. Then power up and it may need a spin to start it off, now you will have a high revving motor screaming away. Leave it to run for 20 seconds or so, it very likely will smoke slightly from the cleaning effect on the commutator. Switch off and repeat two or three times allowing to cool a little in between runs. Refit and should be working again. Jeff

Non turbo did not have an oil cooler fitted from factory, the pipes from the engine to cooler are of course also absent at the oil tree / filter area. Jeff

Jeez 2016 been a bad year for loosing celebs..... sad http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-38427459

Engine oil in the position you mention is almost always cam end seals. Check link below of a tech thread of mine. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?155569-Wet-oil-cambelt-covers-waring!&highlight=Cambelt Plus this one http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?140182-Surprise-engine-oil-leak&highlight=Cambelt Jeff