JeffTT

Even better found this ... http://twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/tech/tc/tc.htl Jeff

Yes somewhere or see if I can find the link on line for you.. Jeff

The Abs ecu is located drivers side rear sear side panel, pull out rear seat squab and release side panel. I always find it easier to remove the side bar the you will see over the ecu. The wiring must go to here as its reliant on getting a good signal both ways. Jeff

You so right with that, its a time thing, Japanese cars of that era were firmly stuck in 70`s/ 80`s medalion man, open shirt hairy chest times. The trim and dash design in the 300zx was a move forward in many ways but there are those irksome little reminder`s that can be slightly annoying but also period and classic ( well sort of ) I look back with fondness of cars I owned in the past, Capri`s, Datsun 280 zx, Opel Monza GSE, Sierra Cosworth etc.. and as great as they were when I get misty eyed looking on E-bay and the like, hankering for the past, shall I buy one again........ THEN THE INSIDE PICTURES !! suddenly my reminiscing ends and I am like yuk !! what was they thinking, crushed red velour seats in my 280z, the knight rider dash in the Monza, the 2 foot long gear lever in the Cosworth and much much more. worse is when they use switch gear from much lower models that is just lazy, at the time the Sierra Cosworth was the Ford flagship, yet most of the trim was shared with the 1.6L !! hence why so many fakes were around at the time. Reminisce all you like but modern cars have evolved in so many ways it is hard to accept now that the 300zx is not without its design flaws, some you can forgive most because its what makes them what they are but sad to say some Datsun design did creep in some places..... eek !! lucky the 300zx is so impressive in other area`s Jeff

What a great idea !! ......... the Notts masif can be erased, oh hang on they don`t post .......bum ! Jeff

Strange guy. Jeff

Exactly right bud, they over price it because they are scared of it, worse is they do not have the correct knowledge and diagnostic / set up equipment. Jeff

Right going to stick my head out here, you guy is not a zed specialist and as such has made some basic errors, ( temp sensor connection issue is well known) Unless he has ConZult diagnostic which I doubt it is unlikely he set the engine up correctly after the belt was changed such as timing, tps, idle control etc, and £600 for a non specialist that sent the car out with the temp sensor issue just about spells out he found it hard and charged you for too many hours or maybe not. Bare in mind, a cambelt change is a while you wait job on a 300zx, seriously whilst you wait, no mystery just get it done and set up correctly and out 3.5 hours max. Why would you spend more money than going to a dedicated 300zx specialist, get an incomplete job done and then still say he is pucker ?? I dare say he may well be a great Cosworth guy but the 300zx is way different. Jeff

Hi Eddie have listed the important points and answered accordingly: 1) The car i'm asking about is a 1993 TT Auto, with a few mods, including an apexi boost controller and afm enrichment, 2) The problem I have with mine is it will sometimes fire straight up but mainly it will take a good few seconds / a couple attempts of cranking before it actually fires. + rough idle for a couple seconds, but once it is running it is fine, no misfires or anything. 3) As far as I can see, the fuel pressure solenoid has been bypassed so I don't think that is the issue. . 4) I can't work out if keeping my foot hard down on the go-faster pedal helps it start or not. 5) I've read all kinds of horror stories about replacing the CAS if that is faulty, like not getting it right and struggling to get it running again. ........................................................................................................................................................................ 1) The afm enrichment device is old hat these days and could have some impact on the problem your having, either way better to get rid and get a correct chip ( eprom ) fitted to work with the extra boost. 2) Many things of a service nature can contribute to poor starting, including spark plugs, air filters and air leaks 3) Fuel pressure solenoid missing is odd, could cause loss of pressure when switched off, requiring the fuel pressure to build when starting, saying that the fuel pump primes when ignition is switched on, would think about refitting the pressure regulator. 4) The engine should start with no need to touch the accelerator 5) Cas unit will not be the issue, and even so is easy to change and get timed up? So I would start with some basis checks on vacuum pipes, plugs, fuel filter, air filter and timing, the set up you have sounds like an older tuning method, I would guess the chip in the ecu is standard and just using the enrichment device for addition fuel to match the extra turbo boost, well .....sort of. Be better to get the ecu chipped and dump the AFM controller, all that does is crudely fool the ecu into adding fuel, does nothing for the timing, vvt or rev limit etc. also check the connections to the temperature sensor and afm as part of the basic checks. The fuel regulator missing is an odd ball and would be replacing that and remove the afm enrichment device whilst turning the boost controller down or off until you get a better chip in there, needs checking out on a ConZult really, give Jimmer a call at Power Zed. Jeff

Same thing a few years ago.... even mentioned here ! http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?175085-Leg-injury-question&highlight=calf+muscle Zeds are flipping heavy, was three / four weeks before i could say it was totally ok, I did get it checked over by the GP as was worried about a blood clot but was ok, elevate and wrap in cold / damp cloth is the trick, however now a few years later I can tell it is bit weaker, if I swim with my fins on I feel it reminding me to be careful. Jeff

Last years MOT fail notice followed by this years, note the mileage difference 13/06/2015 Fail Mileage 26053 miles Refusal Notices Offside rear rear fog lamp not working (1.3.2b) Nearside front brake hose ferrule excessively corroded (3.6.b.4e) Offside front brake hose ferrule excessively corroded (3.6.b.4e) Offside front steering rack gaiter split (2.2.d.2d) Lower steering pivot point has excessive play (2.2.b.1g) Nearside rear tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.e.1) Offside rear tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (4.1.e.1) Nearside rear suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.a.3) Offside rear suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.a.3) Nearside front suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.a.3) Offside front suspension component mounting prescribed area is excessively corroded (2.4.a.3) Advisory Notices Front brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g) Rear brake pad(s) wearing thin (3.5.1g) Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.b.2c) Nearside rear brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrules (3.6.b.4e) Offside rear brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrules (3.6.b.4e) Fuel pipes slightly corroded This years MOT pass and advisories mileage has shot up !! 09/07/2016 Pass Mileage 80383 miles Mileage Notes The mileage recorded at this MOT is below average for a vehicle of this age. (Average mileage of 95900) Advisory Notices Nearside body has slight corrosion seal (6.1.b.2) Offside body has slight corrosion seal (6.1.b.2) Oil leak Offside steering rack gaiter deteriorated (2.2.d.2d) Offside rear tyre worn close to the legal limit (4.1.e.1) Parking brake effort has just met with legal requirement of 16% 01/07/2015

Yeh I guess, Jeff

Thanks for that, I had not seen it only from description, can see how it would look originally but after removing the bent bits and jigging it, a lot is unbolt removal and replace maybe some welding, a half decent body shop would fix that for way less than a shell swap, having said that unless the car has real sentimental value many would see breaking as the best option, but then Lee has been here before waiting for millennia whilst a " garage " did his last shell change, probably can do it quicker as it turned out eh lee? lol Jeff

Hear what your saying lee, but the job your thinking of taking on is enormous at home, be sad to see in 12 / 18 months time you selling the bits as the " project " stalled" and never was completed its an age old situation where the original enthusiam gets sucked up in hours of relentless work with slow progress making it worse. The damage to you car surely can be fixed? remember this one at our 3 years ago >> Look at the severity of the damage Stripped out and six weeks later FULL STORY HERE > http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?169600-The-phoenix-will-rise-from-the-ashes&highlight=Phoenix I doubt your damage is anywhere near as bad as that, think about it hard and long, it is your choice of course but be realistic about your skill set ( not been rude ) tools, facilities and time. Best of luck what ever you do. Jeff

Having changed more than I can remember over the years you can find them in both positions turbo and non turbo, import and left hand drive, my first zed back in 1994 which was a genuine 89 car was an import twin turbo and the sensor was on the drivers side oil tree location. When fitting after market oil gauges the blanked oil tree location on twin turbo`s is often used for the new gauge sensor and fits ok, if the OP has a 92 - 94 engine it will be on the passenger side for sure, saying that motor factors are unlikely to know the difference and just going by application lists, which are mostly the same for early and late engines. Jeff

Really is a 5 minute job if you have done it before, jack the car up on the passenger side, secure and slide under with a torch so you can locate and undo it, have a rag ready to catch the drips, refit the new one by hand until tight and nip up with the tool. Jeff

Just a note, unless you have an early z32 or early engine, the sensor is on the passenger side not the drivers side oil tree as in the picture above. Jeff Easiest way to remove is a crow foot 17 mm on an an extension bar to go over the top of the sensor, be prepared for a small amount of oil to leak out.

Would it not be easier and quicker to get a body shop to jig your old zed straight ? Doing a shell swap on the driveway at this time of year with limited tools, cover and light ( clocks go back end of the month ) will be a long, long drawn out process. Of course your neighbours will be peed and the missus fed up of the house looking like a scrap yard and be careful of local council laws. Repairs are one thing but a shell change could be viewed as something different. Of course then you have the shell id to register assuming you get the V5 of course and then the hundreds of small screws bolts brackets and trim to content with! On your drive way ?? no do not do it bud. Jeff

Not common for the speedo sensor to be the problem, usually further down the circuit, however an intermittent fault with the sensor can happen when the end piece comes adrift in the picture, this can be re fixed in place without any need to remove it from the gearbox. On the rare occasion of needing a new speed sensor be aware there are different ones for auto and manual, and different again for non turbo and twin turbo. Jeff

Most times the tyres need balancing as much as the wheels. Jeff

Simple....................... do not do it, they will need balancing after anyhow and be sure to damage the wheels anyway. Jeff

Ok no real mystery here, the power steering system and Hicas are linked by a common ecu, the euc takes signals from various sensors and it reacts with hicas operations when required to stabilise the car in corners etc. The power steering is speed sensitive and has a fluid solenoid valve which can switch the fluid pressure from a hard setting for high speed to easy setting for low speed maneuvering. So if a failure in a sensor input that effects the HICAS only, all that would happen is the HICAS light comes on which denotes the system has detected a fault and has shut down. If a fault or sensor input fails that effects both the HICAS and power steering then again the HICAS light will come and disable the HICAS but also default the power steering to the hard setting. So given the symptoms it appears to be the later issue, the most likely is a speed sensor signal, what you need to determine is if the speedo is still working when the fault occurs, if it is working it suggests the signal is lost after the speedo unit, this will most likely be the speedo head output. If the speedo is not working, then it could be the speed sensor, the speedo head input or if an import and fitted with a kph to mph converter, a few basic checks should determine what the cause is. Hope that helps Jeff Here is a link to a thread I did a few years ago about how to repair speedo heads: http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?175083-Speedo-soldering-tech&highlight=speedo+tech Below is some more pics of the speedo parts: Speed sensor, ( auto type shown ) Manual gearbox speed sensor location

That is a great improvement well done !!! the series 2 zeds had a leather covered shifter that would look nice oir a recover with your shortened one would look ace, bet Mondo here could do it. Jeff Concept zed do this one.

One is M reg ( 1995 year ) and the other W reg ( 2000 year ) no format difference both are known as Prefix Registration numbers starting with a single letter, then followed by numbers. Jeff

Wow !!