JeffTT

Bad luck buddy, as I said a head swap and new belt ( might only be one ) will sort it. Jeff

Just to clarify, so you and others can understand, you removed and replaced the lower plenum which means the cam belt pulley was removed and the cam belt tension released ? I am guessing the lower metal covers were still in place as you had not removed the crank pulley at that point. Without the tensioner been retracted and held in place the tensioner would over extend, at this point the belt would not go back on in the same place end of, I am wondering how you levered the belt back into place with no view of the crank, the belt could of been sitting out of the teeth. So given the engine will not turn a full 360 deg and locks up it would seem there is a problem, but have you realigned it now the lower pulley is off and hand rotated it? or is that exactly what you have done? if so its heads off time, they can be changed as one without having to remove the valves etc. If you are lucky a couple of good used heads a gasket set, a new cam belt and a long days work could end up been a reasonably cheap fix, hope it works out for you. Jeff

Here some pics of what the key looks like Jeff

Ok there is a tested and tried method to bottom pulley removal, and having done in excess of a thousand 300zx cambelts it never failed. So first you need one of these >> So insert the pulley bolt back in and screw in around half way, fit the puller ensure the pulley is straight and equal at each leg. Take a good ratchet spanner and take the slack up, the puller is now tightly held in place, now turn on some pressure, you will see movement, but is will be the isolator middle section flexing rather than the pulley moving on the crank. Now you need one of these >> Make some short but firm hammer blows to the pulley, but not right on the edge, there is a solid line that can be seen in the area where the ancillary belts run, do a couple to the left and a couple to the right, check the pulley remover tool bolt if now a touch slack slightly tighten the pulley remover again, enough turns to make it tight again. This is repeated until the pulley starts moving on the crankshaft, spray WD40 at any angle you can to get on the crankshaft, once it starts moving it will be a case of a few blows and tighten a few blows and tighten etc. Eventually the main crank bolt will need loosening some more as the pulley comes off, be patient, if you get to a point where nothing is moving tighten the pulley remover bolt as tight as possible ( will try and turn the engine )and leave it for 5 mins and have a cup of tea, the pressure is left on the pulley and when you get back into it the hammer blows will have an effect, maybe small but stick with it. This process will shock the pulley loose, it can take several repeated attempts to get a rhythm going and slowly the pulley will come off, and its only a small amount of rust that cause the problem. Many pulleys come off really easily, the ones that tend to be a problem have had water leaks in the past that has run down from the water pump or by passes hoses and got between the crank and pulley. Its important to clean up the cranks will some wet and dry and inside the pulley before refitting and of course take care to not loose the woodruff key. Good luck. Jeff

Yeh good point. Jeff

Either way not going to effect the lack of boost, noticed the egr is showing as active too which is odd, think there maybe be some communication issues. Yes that can happen but the lack of boost is very noticeable, assuming of course there is no actual boost, sure the OP knows the difference though. Jeff

So as is often the case with the 300zx looking too technical too soon is throwing you off track, so lets assume you are getting NO boost, nothings past the 0 on the gauge, or maybe a very, very slight bit, if you had a boost leak that big the engine would run very poorly, there is nothing on any of those read outs that can effect the boost to that amount ( no boost ) although the duty cycle been off is odd. So your should be looking for a basic mechanical issue and that will be a seized turbo, and a seized turbo almost never leaks oil so no smoke ! because the oil feed is compromised which is why is seized in the first place. Simple check, disconnect the afm, slacken both large boost pipes into the throttles but do not remove, now start engine, remove one pipe completely. pull a latex glove over the pipe coming from the turbo / inter cooler, ( not the throttle ) now raise the revs and if the turbo is working the glove will inflate, if not its not boosting, do both sides and at a guess you will have the most common failed passenger turbo, the boost the other turbo is creating is simply lost straight past the seized one and down the exhaust. Jeff

Shame it impacted your holiday, but to be fair its very unlikely the head gaskets are damaged if as you described and pulled over and let it cool down soon after it happened, the top hose is such and easy fix as well, pity the French garage did not have a little more nerve to do it. Jeff - - - Updated - - -

Let me check the data base and come back to you.. Jeff

The stock brakes were very good when new, but like everything they are made up of many components and as those age the overall braking performance drops away, and when "upgraded" brakes are fitted they are in general new, but often the upgraded items are let down with other components within the braking system. It starts with the master cylinder, if this is worn then it cannot work at its best even when you have new calipers and discs, the brake servo another source of wear and tear, including the one way check valve, wear here will increase required foot pressure and pedal travel. the brake fluid, often forgotten is essential to be changed within the maintenance schedule or it will cause increase pedal movement and increased fade. So it is not as simple as it looks, in the workshop I saw many variations of stock brakes and bigger brakes, and there was always a compromise somewhere, saying that I maybe saw a handful of zeds with grubby old calipers and dirty looking master cylinder that had awesome brakes ? always puzzled me that one! Jeff

They sometimes will come out ok, here is one I did in one piece >> https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?169180-555-injector-woes&highlight=injector Jeff

Most common way here >>> https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?169704-Change-an-injector-dremel-method&highlight=injector Jeff

Ok given my part in the need for this thread I should redress a few facts before moving on, there was not a row and never was, there was a verbal attack on a personal facebook page and said page was simply a vehicle to make an attack on me, and other than that would not have ended up here except said attack was from an Official trader on here, that is how it got here. So that is it, the trader will not qualify why he made the attack despite my attempts to open communications, nothing left to do but forget it. To that end, this thread and my thoughts about the attack are over and no more need for discussion here, of course the fallout towards the forum / club is regrettable and has been noted to engage brain before speaking in future. Jeff

Ok firstly, I am only posting here to answer what is been asked and not to be sarcastic, mean or disrespectful to Steve or the forum, and genuinely sad the REO work did not work out for you, it has always been a hard task that now with lower numbers, and everyone with busy lives it is a tough job how ever amount of enthusiasm and time you dedicate to it and virtually impossible to make it work... I know. Anyway... ....not sure if your feeling a little vexed there ? lol please do not hold back or e-mail me, pm whatever if you want to vent, another`s bad communication is what got us here. Rest assured I get out much more than most so do not worry about that, but as I said above tell me what you feel. You were not alone, I used every avenue I could including you and several other people / messages / e-mails to open up a dialogue with Lee, you were not targeted although I admit some words could be seen as of a sarcastic nature. Please share with us all Pete, after all this is the core reason that the problem has occurred. Jeff

Yes perfect !

http://bde-performance.com/goose.htm Do not fit blow off valves ....no no no repair your recircs Jeff

The ac compressor can be noisy when low on gas / lubricant. The pressure however must be still high enough to activate but the gas content could be poor, also this would suggest there is no leaks and a vacuum and regas with added oil would be the best first option. If however the compressor is still noisy a good second hand one are around £65 or get your own refurbished for maybe a bit more than double that. Either way the unit is a diy swap job but needs some patience to gather it right. Good luck with a regas. Jeff

For anyone of a certain age, this man is a legend, and long may the memories of his Saturday night evening shows be remembered. Jeff

That will be the ac compressor, it switched on in auto and off in econ. Jeff

Easy job, passenger side behind the glove box area, take a look at the picture below, it shows the fan and the fixings as if the glove box lid was removed. ( will look slightly different as that is a lhd zed ) You do not need to remove it to get to the fan and its fixings, but makes it easier, there is a duct pipe that can be removed to help, look up from the passenger foot well and you will see it. Second picture shows what the fan looks like when removed. Jeff

Hi lack of interest in 300zx I guess, more active on the Ford Focus forums. Jeff

Other than wishing people Happy Christmas 2016 not been around these parts for a year + with any tech advice. Jeff

Who ?? Jeff

Nah get Jim on here Si, you know how he loves his Ford`s !! Jeff

All correct, but to add the sapphire in the picture is 4 wheel drive based on age, the vented bonnet and the 4x4 badge on the front wing !! the Escort Cosworth used the 4 x 4 Sierra platform but shortened over the diff area. Jeff