JeffTT

Mmm.... its £££ signs nothing more, and could the guy filming have moved past the club stand any quicker ? jeez thought he had hit the fast forward button ?? disappointing for you guys, be inclined to ditch that video. Jeff

Ah the Portuguese are strict on cars been insured, taxed and tested etc the same as the UK Police so long as that is correct and provable from the country of registration then no problem ( you have to carry all of your documents in the car )now , as far as how long cars can stay here is the same through out Europe, England included, but many of the UK plates cars only come for Summer as most have holiday homes here, cars from Spain, France, Germany and Swiss registered cars make up the rest of the numbers. The GNR do road stops every day all over ( way much more than in the UK ), close to me there are three of four places they hang out and at any time, but with the papers in order your on your way with a few minutes. It is a very diverse European country here, the UK in comparison not ! if the sheer amount of visiting nationals that come here went to the UK in their cars it would stand out so much, here it is just part of the fabric of life.The Portuguese are a great nation of people, and seriously I have not seen friendlier people in any other country and as such are not looking to catch people out, go along with their rules as much as you can and its fine. Now off for a siesta in the afternoon sun..... ahem..:yes: bom fim de semana !! Jeff

No probs, we all car nuts after all, and actually looking quite cool looking around classics as well as more modern stuff, especially when the sun is out of course !! Jeff

Yes I guessed the AF situation will be dealt with, Lancaster though and the choice of who to insure is of course at the traders discretion but the bad customer service which was been mentioned is something very different and wondered if they even aware that one their lucrative outlets is been marred quite possibly by their own employees without their knowledge and just to give them a chance to reply. Jeff

So been watching this thread develop and on the whole has been somewhat informative and revealing. Lancaster Insurance is a club trading partner and seems to be very selective with insurance quotes to members and also seems to happily not follow the rules set out by their own legal bodies. Maybe it is time the forum contacted said insurance company and asked them to reply to the unhappy customers on the very forum they have trader status which affords them a supply of viewing customers. In the meantime anyone who feels unhappy with their services I would suggest contacting their complaints department here >>https://www.lancasterinsurance.co.uk/my-quote/complaints/ If there is no resolution the next stage is the ombudsman here >> http://www.financial-ombudsman.org.uk/ Also to help the committee in their role, to those that have described what they and other`s consider bad customer service, make a trader complaint to the trade liaison officer here >> Groover (Graham Jones) ~ Trading Liaison Officer groover@300zx.co.uk ( is this still correct ???) As mention by someone in the thread, Dan from Adrian flux was making insurance sales pitch, whilst been a registered member, I see this was spoken about but still seems unchanged, in fact earlier in the month Dan made a post for Christmas opening times whilst a registered member, why was this allowed, I and many here must of seen when a member who`s subs have run out with out realising and tries to sell something get`s jumped on from a great height?? ... please discuss... As a final note, why is the issue`s on this not been dealt with yet? is the membership fee not partly to assist with bad service like this? Jeff

Here you go, https://www.facebook.com/GZAPARTS/ Jeff

Yes loads on e-bay, or find your local Maplins and they sell them too, saying that, you will still need the old eprom removing and the socket soldering in, the company I used to use will do this for you by post, https://www.atpelectronics.co.uk/ give them a call and ask for Jackie or Steve and mention Zedworld not only will they supply and fit the socket they will warranty their work, if your lucky it will only be a 2 / 3 day turn around. Oh and as far as calling / messaging Noel, do not waste your time, most of his ex-customers are finding the same cold shoulder issue... :thumbdown: Jeff

Would there not be a serious loss of road driveability with the vvc disabled and high profile cams, kind of like the point having variable valve timing is it not? unless its is going to be a track car only. Jeff

Yes getting there, just 1,499 to go....lol Jeff

Love a calm discussion among friends, bolster`s the soul. Jeff

Trouble is if the liberal tree hugging fluffy slipper brigade get their way it will all be for nothing as we will have to drive Scalextric cars only !! argh !! Jeff

Oh just in case anyone may not know me ( newbies)and is wondering about my cambelt experience on zeds, every single one I changed was documented and photographed, many zeds change hands now with those same photos going with the car. Over the years I amassed hundreds and hundreds and hung them around the workshop as sort of my scalps !! ( lol !) over the successive years having tot ups to how many we had, eventually cable tieing them in bunches of 10`s and having little guessing games here, remember when I passed the magic 1000 mark and surprised the owner when he came to collect his car as I did it for no charge !! Anyhow, fill you boots with some pictures>> - - - Updated - - -

Just to add my thoughts, and echo the get it done theme from others, the engine is indeed one that will be damaged if the timing between the valves and the piston is incorrect. The belts however are massively strong and have seen some horrendous examples during my workshop days having completed maybe 1500 belts on zeds, many on this forum in fact and some more than once. However that said, it may be to many surprise that a clean snapped belt will doubtful damage anything and the reason, the cams are quite high lift and as such exert an enormous amount of pressure on the cam lobs, and anyone who has had a belt off will agree, touch the unbelted cam pulley one or two degrees left or right and the thing will spin around like an F1 car doing donuts ! Anyhow, this is instant and a broken belt will result in all four cams instantly rotating to the all closed position and clear of the pistons, I know this from customers experience. You can image the glee I used to see as zeds were sent to me with broken belts having been told by recovery agents the engine is toast, 3 hours later new belt etc. and running like a dream. Of course as said before this is not a reason to not do it, interesting we found both auto and manual seem to be blessed with the same safety feature. One customer comes to mind in a manual zed and when his belt snapped at around 80mph in the fast lane of the M1, and basically a new belt etc. and it was running again with no problems. So we have dealt with a snapped belt there, but, and there is always a but eh? a slipped belt that does not come off or snap can cause untold damage as it continues to turn the cams and mashes the valves into the pistons, this is the danger of not changing the belt, not from snapping but from skipping, usually as a result of a bad tensioner or pulley. As far as pricing, a little out of date but here is an idea>> £280 + pump + pulleys http://www.zedworld.co.uk/wizzf.html Jeff

Yes of course opinion is always subjective, and whilst I will concede prices did recovery well from £1,500 level a few years back, the repeated suggestion they will be near 20k cars any time soon just feeds the notion that they are equal to historic classic cars. As I said at the end, there are exceptions, extremely nice ones such as yours and others that will in time be hard if not impossible to replace if lost through theft or accident, but those very special ones cannot be used to set prices for the rest. Surely the fact that these high asking price zeds are simply NOT selling must be on your radar to some degree? and any mention of the 350z in the same sentence of the 300zx is like comparing chalk and cheese, yeh Nissan will have you think they were the soul mate of the 300zx, but work on them and you find they are a Renault hatch with a sports body, the structure, quality and overall feel from a mechanical prospective they are just pants, I did have around 10 owners on our books and they were fighting rust issues underneath when they were under five years old...take a gearbox out and see how similar things are to the 300zx but all on a smaller and lower quality scale, nah no comparison, ok for what they are, 370 z is a better comparison to be honest. Anyhow nothing wrong with a honest and informed discussion, come on guys what is your thoughts ? Jeff

I have nothing but contempt for these kind of sales, it is not original and not worth anything like they are asking, I offered my opinion when this was originally on sale for the price of a small island and was blasted basically, I did and still stand by the fact the Nissan 300zx is NOT a classic car in the true sense of the word, for one they made way too many of them world wide for that and 2 there is thousands of them still in existence around the world. The original add falling on its face as did the last auction at half the original price just proves my point, yes there has been a resurgence in classic cars prices in recent years, one`s such as 1970`s escort mexico`s and the like, but what happened everyone and his dog has jumped on the band wagon, oh a Ford Escort Mexico is going for £30k + then that must mean my Austin Allegro is worth £10k ! .....erm ...NO! they were hateful things new and they simply do not merit any kind of classic status but still the triers are attempting to blag Grandpa`s old heap of junk off him to make a quick buck....well were, the game is up now...as I predicted here >> https://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?187309-Current-state-of-the-market-in-Japan&highlight=zed+prices Look not wanting to offend anyone, we all love / loved our zeds and want it to be worth a bundle but it lets get real and Just stop with the "300zx prices are going up " they are NOT, period ! when that one was on ebay there was a rush of 10k+ ones turned up very suddenly fuelled by the idiotic pricing of that advertisement, but they did NOT sell....unsurprisingly ! They like this one now languishing about, this one in an auction that failed, those £10k+ ones from a few months back are now coming back to the market for less than half that, presently on ebay there are 18 zeds listed with the exception of the few "new imports " at £7k ish the average price is £4,500, yep that is it folks not me saying, go check yourself, I said this earlier in the year that the car sales market would not support every 1990`s car hike, 300zx included, was I listened to...erm No! Well guys you have the evidence to view at a few clicks away, now stop getting all loved up on "my Zed is my pension" and just well use and enjoy them... please? Jeff caveat : There of course some splendid examples on this very forum ( you know who you are ) and they really are individually valued higher than the average zed of course, just want to make that clear. Piston head Zed sales>> check them out. https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/nissan/300zx

Yes no probs, firstly the sketches and explanations are reasonably accurate but are lacking in content so lets just fill some of it in and hopefully will be clearer "Pinking" "pre-ignition" " detonation" are among some of the terms that loosely all relate to the same thing, that been incorrect ignition of the fuel / air charge but have different connotations of course. Pinking reference is mostly heard from engines under load with advanced timing issue, this also can be caused by a weak mixture and was a feature of many early eighties cars that were been forced to run on ancient carbs with way too weak a mixture as manufacturers were then under pressure to increase mpg on cars and as direct fuel injection tech was not freely available at that time. Pre-ignition is a case of the air / fuel charge been ignited too early by foreign bodies such as hot carbon deposits in and around the valves, this usually happens just prior to the max compression been attained, the flame front will start to grow too early with piston not yet at the top of the cylinder the charge then expands rapidly as the piston is still not completed its full movement upwards, this is a negative explosion of course and loads the piston, rod and crank with unwanted shudder force against its travel, however the mass of the engine forces against it, and then the correct spark occurs, but the charge is already 50% to 80% or more ignited. That leaves the power stroke down compromised, with the charge not having its full content, engine`s suffering pre-ignition will be down on power of course and the poor burn will actually be dirty in nature and will add more carbon deposits to the charge area, actually making it worse. if left unchecked the engine will suffer serious damage. Detonation, is in turbo cars a major cause of damage, the ignition spark is correct, and the flame front will develop in the initial stage as it is expected to, however the amount of boost ratio against the air/ fuel charge is essential to be correct or the boost level will suppress the flame front, the addition pressurisation caused by the boost will develop a second flame front, this split in the flame front has a real chance of causing hot burn damage to piston tops. Non turbo cars can of course be described as having detonation issues, but that is more to do with compression values and mismatched air / fuel charge and poor chemical reactions during combustion leading to excess heat. The problem with the terms been somewhat ambiguous is that misunderstanding of the differences is bound to happen, when we all hear of engine`s going bang after a build and boost increase its easy to blame a bad build or bad map, and yes whilst there is of course a connection, what actually goes on in the cylinders is complex and when we know manufactures get it wrong some times its no wonder after market builds and tunes need to be planned out. That is why trusted methods will proven results along with a good builder is essential, basically any big builds thinking should start right at that point where the piston is about to reach top dead centre and ignite the air / flame charge, get that right first, then build backwards through the engine to the turbo`s, intake and exhaust, each step maintaining that original start point where the charge is correctly ignited. This will ensure your boosted engine will all work together, I do shudder when at the start of a build, the owner will be discussing exhausts and turbo choices as the main criteria to getting those magic numbers.... no, no, no, think last first and work backwards. Hope that helps Jeff Google search bits Knocking should not be confused with pre-ignition – they are two separate events. Pressure and temperature are strongly linked, knock can also be attenuated by controlling peak combustion chamber temperatures by compression ratio reduction, exhaust gas recirculation, appropriate calibration of the engine's ignition timing schedule, and careful design of the engine's combustion chambers and cooling system as well as controlling the initial air intake temperature.

Yeh, any change in the specified resistance is an indicator of a problem with the coil winding connection inside the injector, what can happen is the injector still works in a fashion but the response time will be all over the place, and can actually feel like a misfire at certain revs / loads. I always used an old injector connector with fly leads on and you can connect to a battery then and do a repeat on off connection and see how loud the click is and how rapid its sounds, all in connection with a good resistance value, in fact that method of an injector connector and fly leads is really useful when on the engine as you can do a quick check for click on each injector without removing them. Jeff

Of course some pics of mine... - - - Updated - - -

Are you talking about the resistance value in ohms? if so an un-powered injector should be around 14 ohms, have seen them go both lower and higher resistance and of course open circuit, anything more than 2 ohms either way is a no no. Jeff

- - - Updated - - -

So again the car meet close to me was busy and buzzing with all sorts of vehicles, the turn out was really ggod with both car owners and visitors, encouraged by the sunny November weather. First show for some cars, including a lhd Aston Martin Lagonda and it was huge, goodness knows how they thought it would fit in to normal use on Uk roads?? Renault Alpina, very rare and very nice and a friends BMW 635 csi all in a great day, topped off with lunch at a local restaurant with friends. Enjoy ... Jeff

Can I ask, warning lights do they get a pass with an advisory or fail, is there any difference between light types? Engine management light.......pass with warning or fail ABS Light ......................... pass with warning or fail Air bag light ...................... pass with warning or fail Notice some cars for sale on the mot checker are getting passes with lights on, but was sure some of them became fails, or I have I got it wrong? Jeff

3/16 " you can buy the plates already cut >> https://www.z1motorsports.com/transmission-driveline/ramey/starter-shim-plate-p-2945.html https://conceptzperformance.com/ramey-z-transmission-na-to-tt-starter-shim-plate-spacer-nissan-300zx-90-96-z32-rmyz-23300_p_2528.php Jeff

Tap and an oversized bolt, you will have to open the slot up in the starter motor too. Jeff

Glad one of my posts helped out, the screech sound when started, have you checked to make sure the starter is not loose on the bellhousing, bottom fixing is notorious for pulling the threads out of the box. A normal garage should have no problem, pulling the box and changing the flywheel and clutch, from memory we charged around £225 in labour a few years back of course so expect a labour cost of £250 to £280 should cover it. Jeff