groover

All the best Mark, hope you had a nice day.

A new injector loom would require splicing anyway, its not plug and play, so i would say if you auto electrician is a good one, splicing wont be the issue, but access will be.

Be good to see you there Mikey and have a laugh, zed or no zed, but im sure a man of your talents will have it rebuilt in a day :thumbup:

The majority of our members in this club are honorable and trustworthy, unfortunately its the odd bad deal that gets all the publicity. Doesn't happen that often, infact fairly rarely, but when it does, it seems to be in spates of two or three. Most of the problems arise through either bad or lack of communication or a misunderstanding, i dont think that anyone sets out with the intention to rip a fellow member off, but again, people need to read the trading rules and make sure that both parties have contact details.

We discussed a sales template a few months ago when we had previous deals go awry, we are searching for an appropriate template for the forum software along with the new rides section, which will be implemented very soon. A deal between two members is simply that and the club acts as a channel for the sale to happen, but accepts no responsibility for the said deal and as part of the AUP, is accepted by a member when entering into a sale or purchase. We have limited sources to rectify a deal gone wrong, but try our best to resolve matters. As a club, it is not tenable to create an Escrow account or have any financial dealings outside the clubs remit, due to the nature of the clubs standing and financial implications it may entail. But... as it appears that problems have become more frequent with trading we will have no alternative to implement a sales template, which will be quite stringent and likely to put some people off trading, but if it helps resolve poor trading then so be it. Remember that there is still nothing to prevent a member giving false information/contact details, but is another step forward into safeguarding the likelihood of it happening again. Cheers Graham

Decorsa 245/40/18 rears 265/35/18

Although i have an N/A i have Japspeed manifolds, zcentre decats with silencer and mongoose catback and has made a big difference to the performance. The mongoose has a lovely tone that is also quieter than the Japspeed catback i had previously

Same as TT, i did mine when the engine was out, but is do able with it in.

Happy Birthday mate, as mentioned add your DOB in your profile and it will flag up for ever more :thumbup:

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/137858.html?*session*id*key*=*session*id*val* The set up is the same for US and UK, ie position of the tanks and piping, sensors

I left that bracket off when i redid mine lol

At least you are after getting another one, so all is not bad :thumbup:

Its not something we have to deal with in this country, which is surprising as we have to deal with other stupid bloody laws and by laws and rules and regs. I think you would probably get the answer you need from the ministry of transport or other federation in your own country, not much help i know :thumbup1: What is it that needs approving? the make/size?

Mine lined up perfectly with the notch in the oil pump, but i guess engines will differ slightly if they are only there as a reference. So it looks like youve finally cracked it :thumbup: good luck with the rest of the rebuild.

Still looks out to me on the crank sprocket line to the oil housing mark. Is there any movement in the crank, you need a few mil clockwise, im not sure the tensioner will move it round enough. - - - Updated - - -

He is mate, but he doesnt do replacement arches and sills if thats what you are after, you can contact Mike at MJP who does supply them i believe.

The marks on the sprockets/covers are for reference purposes only. If you are having trouble with getting the belt over the tensioner because its too tight, then you not doing it correctly, the belt should fit easily, without any tension issue. Check this thread and you cant go wrong http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?135139-Align-timing-belt

LMAO, that looks like a retard has tried to read how to write a legal letter and failed epically. Its not worth anyone even considering small claims for such a small amount of money. As per advice given, dont reply and leave the ball in his court, just keep all the correspondence and pics as back up should he carry out his idle threat.

Sounds like a dodgy earth, more likely in the fuse board area of the footwell, relay board behind fuses.

One question Mark, what do we do about insurance for the track?

Thats good news Lee, nice to keep it all above board. Never thought about permissions before for images.

The reverse beep unit, is under the dash, above where the top of the clutch pedal would be... you can eliminate the beep y taking the box apart, but deleting the box altogether, you will need to find the wires to connect for reverse lights. You can take the light/speed chime box out altogether with no adverse affect, apart from no bonging when the lights are left on and door open, thats behind the dash cowl to the left behind the clocks.

The coloured wiring diagrams are in the tech faq, what is it your after doing? Its called the TCU ( time control unit)

Re use the ones you already have if complete, i was just giving you a list of what you should end up with when replacing the pads.