groover

How many peeps do we need for the stand Mark?

Absolutely, no worries there. :thumbup:

If no power was on at the time of the fire, its unlikely the led rear lights caused the spark, more likely the light control module itself or something else in the dash area, didnt you say you saw a light and the wipers going? What light did you see?

H3c for jap and H3 for UK, but H3 hids should be in there. You will find that the inside of the lens needs cleaning and inside of the glass of the headlight itself. Not a huge job, but a bit of a pain if doing all the glass and lens, but lens you can get to with a swab ( bigger than a cotton bud) like the detailing buds you can get from Halfords. You should notice a big difference when clean.

That might be your problem lol, you need to get her level, before pulling the belt out. :biggrin:

Ball bearing most likely trapped in the cog, loosen the bolt and give the unit a shake to move the bearing, you can see it move and how it locks, so once its loose, try to keep upright, then refit, hopefully will sort the issue. Every now and then mine still sticks, but im parked on a slight incline every night, so im fairly sure i know what my issue is lol.

I thought they were marked, but offer them up and bolt in loosley then pull the belt, this pic might help, it shows the pass side, now look at the clear plastic section, should be facing to the rear of car

ECU by the looks of it http://www.nengun.com/impul/computer-for-the-fairlady-z-z32-218253

The ball bearing in the bottom of the cog gets trapped if its at the wrong angle. before fitting, hold the belt housing upright and wiggle till the ball bearing is free from the cog, then fit to the body. It probably lodged itself in transit, also make sure you have the correct side for pass and drivers, as the there is a slight angle to them, so basically once freed you need the belt tensioner upright.

Most of the deals go without a hitch, but you are bound to get the odd one go sour, but dont use the bad ones as a gauge to how sales are done here.

As Richard said, rears already ideal size. Falken 452 are a pretty standard choice, but i found they didnt last as long as the Nexen im using now. Nexen have really come on since the budget tyres they used to make, but slightly cheaper than Falken and last twice as long. Of course everyones opinion differs when it comes to tyres, but it really depends on your budget and how you are going to drive the car.

I havent polished mine in two years, just use wet and dry so cant say im with you on that one :laugh:

So what the ride going to be Daz or is it a surprise? Love the garage by the way, you have given me some inspiration to sort mine out now lol

Sorry to hear that, as mentioned at least no one was hurt, bet you are gutted about the car though.

Might be, might not be :biggrin:

Cool, really going to town on her now then, look forward to seeing her.

No :huh: but will be at the end of the month, im re prepping the body and primer, im doing the door shuts under bonnet and hatch and if i feel the finish wont be up to par in my unit, then it will go to a mates paint booth for the final coats of 2k :thumbup: I cant go another year to JAE in primer lol, will be embarrassing, i want to polish it for the first time in two years instead of rubbing it down :biggrin:

Thats looking much tidier, i still got my trims to do too, infact when i look at it i have a shed load still to do, but keep plodding on through the jobs lol Here is a pic of the washer bottle motors if it helps .

No worries Lee, hows it going with the car, manage to sort the manifolds?

Black box is the rear tail light sensor, normally found behind the drivers side plastic in the boot. The connector from under the stereo looks similar to the clock plug or to the auto selector.

Unfortunately the water pipes need to come off to get to the bolts behind it, shite design i know lol, if you do then get some gasket sealant for when you put the pipes back on. Intake pipes off too. Its not hard, just more time consuming than it could be.

The bolts enter a fixed captive nut in the plastic of the cambelt cover, if the bolts you have used are too long or over tightened/cross threaded, you will have pushed the captive nut out of the molding and will likely be touching the front of the exhaust cam pulley. You should be ok once taken out, but i would remove the ptu from the cover and re route under the nose panel. Plenty of cable to do it, you will just need to cut some of the tape/heatshrink to take out the water sensor feeds.

Damn i thought you'd fooked off :laugh::laugh: Really looking forward to seeing your interior mate at JAE, what else you got planned to do to her before then?

Hi Mate, i did everything except under the seats so far, will take some more pics when i take the roof lining out for some spraying, but has made a difference, especially the doors. Nice thud when i close the door now instead of a hollow rattle lol.

Jeff, not sure if you are aware, but youve dropped a load of zedworld stickers on the floor, mind you dont trip :laugh: