groover

Moving the needle under load will most likely damage the spline on the motor, moving the needle not under load, ie out of the car and no power (ign off) then it will be hit and miss as to the correct position. mph will read the same as kph with a convertor, as you say the the larger numbers that were a kph marker are larger than a mph face would be and as only the 20 and 40 etc is on the kph face you would see 30mph as just a line rather than having the number next to it. It is possible that someone has had a play with the clocks in the past which is why the needle moves forward 10mph upon start up or ign on and you can try to knock it back by 10, but be prepared for a fubarred speedo if it doesnt work.

I always like the look of Pauls silver zed, so although it will change colour, youve got a good base to work with at least.

UK clocks arent cheap, but you save £25-£60 on a new convertor, depending where you get it from, ebay or zcentre and they are plug and play up to a series 3 iirc, so in the long run worth doing, its the best move i made, after trying a couple of different sets of JDM clocks.

Brake light in the perspex strip, they are not 501's but they will fit.

I have had this issue in the past and it came down to a duff speedo convertor, check to see if you have one wired into the back of the dash, or it could be the dials you have (110mph) are to blame. If you can get a set of uk clocks, it will eliminate the need for a convertor and will rid you of the 112mph limit.

EL wire is another option for highlighting interior lines etc rather than the panels or strips.

He has used a few EL panels for various tasks, such as the window decal, rear section between the lights, but recently gone to multicolour leds for that now. Door sills, led interior, you name it he has lit it lol. Im sure if you do some more searching you will find a load of pics.

You havent seen Phutumsch's car then lol

yes mate it is

Welcome back Al, give me a PM if you are interested in what we discussed before xmas. Cheers Graham

http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/forumdisplay.php?43-FAQ-Storage-Area

Then the fabricator wants shooting lol, there are far far better professionals out there who can do that job, its a shame your so far away, as i know a guy local to me who is a brilliant fabricator and welder. There must be a company or bod who advertises in your local rag who is capable. Seriously after all the hard work youve done on her, it would be such a shame to get rid, for the lack of finding a good fabricator. Cheaper too no doubt lol

Easy to do, loosen the main alternator bolt, do not remove, then loosen 14mm bolt on the bracket, and adjust the bolt under the bracket to tighten, no need for a jenny or prise bar, the adjuster bolt will take up the slack

If your shell is immaculate then why look for another? Surely the panels can be sorted, it will be far less work than starting again lol

Most likely a slightly stretched belt, give it a tighten up and should sort the squealing issue, you can also buy some spray, which makes the belt grip more, cant think what its called lol

lol i would snap your hand off, but i guess until you live somewhere long enough, its hard to judge on the reality of it.

One day i hope to move there, sick of this bloody weather and miss the atmosphere there.

I remember reading that it is possible to use either loom on either engine, with the difference being as Ian described, you wouldnt need the boost solenoid plugs.

Welcome to the club Andy and we hope you have fun in your new toy. Try doing a search on wide arch, there may be some past posts that have some info that might be of use, there have been a few wide arch conversions done in the past, but as said, a fair amount of work involved and cost too, then you might also think about bigger wheels to fill the arch. Get your niggles sorted first, enjoy it for a while and then think about where you want to go with it. All the best

The vibration issue is likely to be the spigot rings broken or missing, generally required with after market alloys. The spacer will take the alloy hub past the ring and therefore will no longer centre the wheel, causing vibration. I have the same issue with mine and depending on the hubcentric spacer, you may still require spigot rings. Measure the hub diameter and the alloy centre diameter to work out the spigot ring size.

Like anything new it takes time to adjust and i can only vaguely remember the old forum lol

Try lynbrook, prestige, Heritage, Carol Nash.

All the best mate, have a great day

Nice to see you back Dave, glad youve found a good woman, good enough to marry anyway lol, hope you stick around for chats.

Cheers for the link Gary, i was still half asleep this morning so didnt search lol, I will investigate once the rain has stopped, ive removed the horn fuse for now.