groover

Do you still have your cats? if you have no cats, then the Aiv system is not required and often the AIV tubes are left open, although the vac pipe on the AIV solenoid needs capping to prevent unnecessary vac leaks. Which hose are you talking about, vac hose or the larger metal tube?

RX8 look nice but as said expensive to run, parts are expensive, for eg: i had one to look at for a mate who had an engine warning light on, turned out to be the float/needle in the expansion tank had broken, you cant replace the float as it is a sealed unit and the whole tank was something like £260 from Mazda and thats on top of the £2k for the engine rebuild and more for coil packs and other work he paid for to get it right, he bought it cheap knowing it needed work, but should have bought a newer lower mileage one and saved himself the hassle and a few quid. Another mate of mine has one and he loves it, but its not off his drive that often and he is always polishing it, so more a weekend toy for him i guess. You can get horror stories with any car, so i would do some research and try to get a good one, not one of the real cheapies from ebay lol

Welcome Jay to the club and good luck with your new toy.

If the compressor has seized, you will need a regas anyway after fitting a new one so you will probably be fine on the rest of the system.

You will need about half a meter of hose to do the bypass to obtain as natural a bend as possible or it will kink if too acute and affect water flow

As Dave said, straight swap of the control pod and the series 2 climate ecu, ( black box to the left of the foot rest, behind centre console) nothing else needs changing

If the hose is off near the battery it could be the pvr solenoid pipe, located on the plenum bracket, which then runs to the carbon canister under the front bumper, so if the hose is off the plenum as in Steves pic, it will aslo affect the running of the engine due to a vac leak.

Here is a link to the AIV delete, which will show you what is under the arch liners on both sides. http://www.300zx.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?99851-Full-AIV-Removal-For-JapSpec-Non-Turbos-by-DJ_Party_Favor Passenger side AIV Drivers arch liner removes to see AIV If you were checking the gearbox level , then you have an autobox, which would have had the oil refilled via the dipstick tube, so if there is a hose off, it could be a vac pipe, possibly from the AIV solenoid. Would be easier for us to diagnose with pics lol, but hopefully print off some of the pics in the link and it may help your garage.

In the meantime to drive the car, you can join the rear water pipes on the back of the engine with a length of hose to bypass the matrix until you are ready to fit.

Yep thats the one, some say that its a tight fit and have to shave a little off the plastic shroud, but i had no problem fitting mine on an N/A, no reason for the difference as far as i can tell. Also i found it easier to cut the pipes a couple of inches from the flange of the old matrix pipes then use (18mm iirc) hose with a couple of jubilee clips to re join, much easier than trying to reach the 8mm bolt in the engine bay and scraping your hands up trying to access it. Again write ups in the TECH section.

New Oem is stupid money, but you can buy a new one for a Primera P10, same fit and around £50 or so to buy. Search for heater matrix posts and you may even find the link

Well done Keith, ideal choice really as you have done a sterling job so far :thumbup:

I got breakfast in bed, then took the boys out to an indoor play place, which meant i could read the paper in relative peace for a couple of hours lol, then we went to the cinema to watch Man of Steel, that was far too loud lol, then finished off the night with watching Bon Jovi acorss the river at the IOW festival. Ive got a headache now, but it was worth it.

Happy Birthday bud, have a great day :thumbup:

On the upside, the steering wheel looks to be in good condition :biggrin: Great dedication and look forward to more pics of the project :thumbup:

If you paint them, make sure they are lacquered as the grime soon builds and are a bitch to clean as ive found out lol, If yours was a weekend toy then the top cover would also be fine, but you will have to keep on top of the dirt as it will be getting into your sprockets etc.. so think hard about long term rather than a quick wow factor.

Glad things have turned around for and your other half, onwards and upwards

Glad things have turned around for and your other half, onwards and upwards

Lots of different versions around now, funny enough there was an article in the Sun today. Ive got an Ecigarette, but dont use it as much as i should lol.

if we were there would only be one member we can all think of who will frequent said bar :biggrin:

I think you need a manual ASCD (cruise control unit), its next to the ecu. Also worth checking: ( copied from a US site) If you have a failing ASCD (a.k.a Cruise Control), check FOUR fuses.This is based on my 1992 EURO SPEC TT Battery -> Horn Relay (Location : Engine Bay, 10A). If this one is blown, the MAIN cruise control (i.e. on the left pod) will work, but it will NOT be able to set the speed. Seems it cuts continuty from the Set/Reset/accel THROUGH the Horn relay. Ingition Switch -> ASCD (a.k.a. Cruise Control) Hold Relay (Location : ?). This one makes sense. Battery -> Stop Lamp Switch (Location : ?). Depressing the brake kills the ASCD, makes sense. Ingition Switch -> Electronic Speedometer (Location : ?). And....looking at the complete diagrams, it seems that these fuses are controlling a LOT more than what's labelled on the box (someone told me on an auto the ASCD fuse controls sometimes the BACKUP lights ???)

Happy Birthday mate, have good one

Welcome to the club Stephen, such a familiar story for many no doubt, good luck in your quest to own a zed.

Great news Steve and another fine job done by Noz :thumbup:

Happy Birthday mate, hope you had a good day and it would be nice to see some up to date pics of your zed.