groover

Sorry bud, been off line for a few days, will take some pics later and post them up.

The triac is a switching component, what its job is on the board im not sure, although it may be to allow the signal through once it receives voltage, ie vehicle moving and therefore makes sense that if you are getting a signal stationary the triac missing may be a part of the issue. Before you go moving the triac from one board to the other, let me take out my clocks tomorrow, i will take some pics and get a clearer understanding of what yours should look like on the board.

A wooden gear knob would match the wheel better lol

If you get no joy, i will take out my UK clocks tomorrow and do some comparisons as i also have a spare JDM set.

Looks like the triac has been removed, you will probably need to de solder the tag and re solder into the uk speedo. Assuming the uk clock doesnt need the triac TR2, it should cure the problem, but why it has been messed with, who knows.

You know, i would be inclined to go a bit further with your design and recess the gauges and you have room for a couple of nice switches.

As Rolandas pointed out, you are missing the tag for the screw to go into. Also you wouldnt need to take off the needle to try and get it back on in the right place for it to read correctly. You will see there are two blue trim pots, iirc the left one can be adjusted to calibrate the speed, but you will need to drill a hole in the top of the white housing to allow access for a small flat blade screwdriver. You will need to adjust as you are driving, having a sat nav as a comparison and someone in the car with you to adjust it would be ideal. Thats if adding the tag to the 5k doesnt work.

Great work Dave, nice to see you getting some enthusiasm back after the problems in the past youve had with her.

You can get similar for a quarter of the price on ebay, as long as it stores tools, im not prepared to pay that much for occasional use lol

Could be in safety mode, need to get it on consult or datascan, i would take up the offer of a plug in from cyberbean, could save you lots of searching and headaches.

Welcome to the club, nice looking zed, for lots of info check out the Tech Faq's on the header at the top of the page.

Removing the AIV's will not affect the ECU, they are designed to feed cool air to the cats when needed. While you are looking for a bung for the down pipe, you can link the corrugated pipes from the downpipe with some hose and clips and a few inches of copper pipe to aid the join. There is only one vac hose to block at the AIV solenoid near the small fuse box as shown in the pics and nothing else to worry about removing in the engine bay. Like anything else on the zed, do what you have been doing and read the write ups over until you get to grips with whats involved, coming to do the job is easier with the info imprinted on your brain lol

Just heard on the news, we dont seem to have heard alot from him since Alas Smith and Jones, but sad to hear all the same RIP..

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/137858.html

If you floor it, it will automatically go into power mode and not taking it out of overdrive is fine, i used to use it in or out when going up a hill as it didnt drop down a gear quick enough.

Which club you looking for?

The dark brown bulb holder behind the fuel gauge is the low level light source, check and clean the copper terminals, change bulb to eliminate that ( 501) same as dash lights. Loosen then re tighten the three screws that hold the fuel gauge and see if that stops the flickering. Or swap the fuel gauge over from the JDM clocks if that worked fine before, straight plug and play into the UK clocks.

Ive tried to put off the inevitable and now need to do some jobs that can no longer wait. Because i drive her every day and especially in this weather i cant stop driving her, there are some little issues which need sorting that have been bugging me for a while, apart from painting ( only been 3 years :biggrin:) someone hit my wing mirror when parked up recently and broke the motor mounting plate, so held on temporarily with some screws, but still wobbly. Got new mirrors to go on but wanted to hold off till the car was sprayed. Spigot rings on the front wheels have disintegrated, so get a slight wobble at 60mph with the spacers fitted. Drivers after market speaker has fallen into the door slightly, so window wont go all the way down as it hits the speaker:glare: Bonnet squeaking again over bumps. Slight misfire, which self healed for a few days, but now its back, so i know thats nothing major lol Got something loose either on the suspension or centre cap on the alloys as i hear noise when going over bumps. Sort horn, it would go off in really wet weather at silly o'clock in the morning:blink: A few more niggles on top of that lot to sort, but hey ho, joys of a daily zed :thumbup: Weather is too hot at the moment to get motivated, the minute i start something i sweat like a trooper :yes: Note to self over :dots:

So did the AA guy know where to look or did you point him in the right direction lol

Take the fan out, it wont make any difference lol, it is part of the climate control.

I havent personally done one, its a case of changing the R10 resistor to the correct resistor, i would have to search to find the write up with the correct figure required, however i have read a few write ups and after a few adjustments it can be done. I personally wouldnt like to be responsible for your speedo lol. It would also involve drilling a couple of holes at the top of the housing to access the potentiometer ( sp? variable resistor) to adjust to calibrate the speed with a sat nav.

Check for engine movement side to side, i had to repair one once, 04 plate and found that one balance shaft broken and the other had the wrong shaft, meaning the wrong cogs to fit the timing belt, nightmare. But if she sounds sweet they are normally a good work horse, but that experience put me off.

I got a spare couple of jdm speedos knocking about you can have one if you feel yours is totaled. I use one of those desk top magnifiers with the light around it, makes a hell of a difference in spotting the tiniest of cracks or line in a board. If it shoots straight to 100, then you might have either had too much heat for the resistor or capacitor, easy to change with the spares.

Saved me a job lol http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/technical/view/1133844/More-gauge-cluster-repair-info.html More http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/main/view/1106786/Some-info-for-DIYer-gauge-cluster-repair.html

Turn the board over and you will see a big resistor, thats the R10, C2 is a capacitor, actually that photo is making me sick now lol, i have a spare dash here, i will take some new photos.