jaffa

could be your steering wheel isn't dead straight, tripping up the hicas system

it's just another way of measuring pressure. I think it was 14.7psi = 1 bar.

calculator is fine, you put the wrong tire profile in which would increase the gearing / top speed

more likely your diff/subframe bushes than the diff itself

http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2178694/Finally-found-the-limits-of-a-NA-rear-end-.html something to be wary of using the r200 diff (especially for v8 torque monsters:eek:) quaife diff for the r230 here http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/partdetails/Quaife/Drivetrain/Differentials/HorsepowerFreaks_300zx/10250

don't think much happened in 2007 or so far this year for that matter, in the UK at least.

wise choice, 355 won't fit under there without an extreme offset

330mm or 355mm discs?

so, are all the r200's as strong as each other? Is it just a case of picking the ratio of your choice and stick a quaife( or plate) lsd in there if you feel like it? What about the halfshaft's? I see there are aftermarket covers available for the 200sx to increase oil capacity too. Does the quaife for the r200 also convert to equal length halfshaft like the r230 one?

your quaife and leadergears are for the r230 diff which will need the tt subframe. The tt subframe minuse hicas weighs about the same as a na subframe. The weight advantage here is by switching to a r200 diff which needs the na subframe to mount it.

I'm sure I read on the UAS website that the GTR diff was some 20Kg lighter than the TT diff. Anyone know if that's true? Sounds like a big saving and more like what I would expect from switching subframe (ie scrapping HICAS). If the 20Kg is diff alone then it would be worth considering.

I've relocated mine to the top of the rocker covers as per the above link.

ditto, really lets the car down if you have doors open with windows down

personally, the rear bumper is too close to the exhaust, makes it look the exhaust isn't fitted correctly. Love the look of the diffuser version though so hurry up!

580 rwhp will be on race gas, built motor with cams. Should still see very healthy numbers here though, especially if you have the 3" downpipes.

:rofl: Mine's given up, and I think would rather not know how much I spend, though it is often referred to as "that f'ing car" :)

or year :) David - looks really good! hope you can get it up and running soon after all this effort.

it's standard and provides the vacuum feed to the fuel pressure regulator, via the PRVR system if you still have that (bunch of piping in passenger side wing)

you can use normal silicon hose

ohh dear, number 6 doesn't look good at all

any pinched o rings leading to an injector leaking fuel into the cylinder?

Stu, you might not have any problems. It's not ideal having the fan on all the time but remember the thermostat in the waterpump will most likely compensate.

post the results of all 6 cylinders up

i find that fed-ex send the bill afterwards, whereas parcelforce insist on payment upfront

the SZ sump is good quality, it's based on a stock item and they weld on the rest. As for accusump, I suggest you search google as there will be loads of info. It's essentially a pressured container with oil in it. When your engine oil pressure drops too low, the accusump releases it's contents to help the engine maintain correct oil pressure.