jaffa

i think the fist question is: do you have to change your turbos or are you asking as that was the first thing you thought of? what mods do you have already?

very cool, i was also reading it at normal speed!

the dyno will measure the afr, leave the boost controller off for the first run, you'll probaly still get 14-17psi, depending on what psi Martyn set the actuators to open at. If the AFR is good then switch the controller on for the next runs ;) I wouldn't play with the boost controller until you're sure your current chip is providing enough fuel.

just finished watching season 3, now watching season 3 of prison break :) will try heroes next

As Andy says, sounds like you had a bit of Det which knocked you back into safety mode. Engine off and on will let you play again until he next lot of det is picked up.... Most likely because of the heat, drop the boost down (9-12 psi is better than 7psi!) or put some intercoolers on.

be interesting to know but no big deal. I imagine the diff is lighter, I think I was reading about the UAS race 300zx and they used a skyline diff to save nearly 20Kg alone!

thanks, just checking i wasn't missing a trick :)

how much lighter is the na subframe compared to a tt one with hicas removed?

who mapped it for you?

lol, spacers would make it worse! Paul, rolling the arches should do the trick, and a bit of negative camber will help

I'd agree, unless your trying to run the newest games it should be just fine

loose coilpacks?

all good ;)

yes, they make the border 850cc ones

agree on kaminari and the front end is PhotoShopped

What happened to yours in the end?

changed your PCV's lately? if not they might be blocked, causing the excess pressure and dipstick to pop out

downpipes make a big difference, and depending on the turbo's you've got you may be forced into buying some... so which tubs have you bought?

that's the point ;)

agreed, you have the muscle, you just need to lower your body fat by running/cycling

looking at the design of your wheel I'm not surprised you need spacers! You'll be ok adding a 15mm spacer, though might need to roll the front arches to stop them catching. Only problem you might have is that depending on the design 15mm might not be enough. On mine, even after mounting I needed an extra 3mm to clear the valve as that stuck out the most on the inside

not sure if the rebuild kit is also suitable for the R33 calipers? Stu, If you still have the porterfield pads on there I'd recommend changing to DS2500. I found the porterfields don't inspire confidence

Ash's customer service is not his strong point, though usually his products make up for it, I had to wait 2 years for his 2.5" IC piping! I believe he's going to stop selling to customers directly and will distribute his products through established vendors. Follow Danny's advice and get youself over to DTA, they will take care of you.

AMS are copies. Personally I'd go for the Mike Smith ones (and I did) for the extra peace of mind. He spent years developing them.

congrats on getting it back! sounds like a loose sensor, check the usual culprits and go from there (water temp, ptu,MAF & cas)