nzniggles

Have to agree with Jimmer, the Venom injectors are not the best

So the ECU socket / plug was OK and not broken (pins not pushed back inside the connector)? It's about the only thing I can think of that would affect 6 injectors.

JeffTT - you're a bresh of fresh air ..... always a nice positive approach to things. Good on ya.

Have you checked the connector is properly seated on the ECU?

Have you chercked the connector is properly seated on the ECU?

Test for 12 volt power on 1 side of the injectors - it should be there all the time - key on or not, it doesn't matter. If not there, that is your problem. If it is there, check the connector on the ECU is properly seated and not broken.

Thanks for posting the results guys - now to attack the Maxima

Do you get any noise from your fuel pump when you first turn the ignition on?

Yes - there are a bunch of fusible links in the relay box and also a circuit breaker feeding the ignition circuit side of things.

Hi Ruan My 2001 Maxima is doing the same thing. I've just bought a new NDS tool so if I find anything I'll let you know. Exact same fault, start the car and all is well at idle. Use light throttle and it farts about. Give it a boot full of throttle and shes away. Only does it when it's cold. My initial thought was TPS but will check it out in the weekend ........ but then if I let it idle and warm up the problem goes away so it can't be the TPS ....... or could it ....... hmmmm

At a stand still with the motor running, what the effort like then?

Safety mode gives minimal assistance. Very odd. Is it really really light steering?

Probably a bit low as this is the average running temp. I'd set it to around 90 personally

At what engine speed ?

Also go over the solder joints on the power steering controller. Did that for a guy out here in NZ and it fixed his even though they (the solder joints) didn't look too bad

The speed sensor controls the power steering force. It's all controlled via a small box (NA) and a bigger box (TT) down by the ECU. A variable voltage is fed to the solenoid on the power steering rack to control the amount of turning force required.

Awesome day today. Slight breeze, blue sky, sunny and around 23 degrees :) :)

Standard gap is 1.1 but gap it to 0.8 if your running more boost than standard

If you run a dual intake, a standard ECU will get you going in the mean time. If you have Doolz or a standard set up (i.e. 1 MAF) you will need a custom jobby. Have a look at - http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=169 Not terribly expensive and you can plug in your laptop and retune thing to suit. It emulates the Eprom. If you have a dead ECU, get another, socket it and plug in the Moates Ostrich.

PUMP itself up. Wouldn't release fully making it slip

Exactly what happened to me. Clutch felt good and worked fine but over a half hour of driving would pump itself up.

Also less prone to warping as it is not 1 continous ring of metal

Think the TT has extra pipes for the return oil feed from the turbos

The second purpose of the shroud is to draw air through the radiator over a larger area. Do you do a lot of idly / slow driving ?

Agreed Can't PM sorry All I was saying is that it is possible that bore wash could be a factor in the problem. I can find many Google searches which back my statement. You seem to disagree but I'm happy to leave it at that. Cheers for your input