nzniggles

When I had a temp sender fault I got plenty of blue smoke then and it cleared quite quickly. My rings / valve stem seals and compressions are fine. Never smoked any other time.

Or a bad connection to the steering rack solenoid

Which google are you using ;)

I did a google for "bore wash" and got ..... Results 1 - 10 of about 2,520,000 for bore wash. (0.18 seconds)

If your motor is run in already, glazing shouldn't occur. The fuel washes the oil off the bore and gets burnt giving the blue oil smoke with a heavy soot content from the fuel. Smells and looks terrible.

In the 300ZX, overfuelling can be caused by the temp sender which is notorious for giving problems.

It's not too unusual. The mechanic at work first told me about it and is quite often the case when you have a strong petrol smell too. Do a search on this forum for "bore wash", it pops up from time to time.

Or it's really rich and washing the bore of all oil

I've run the Bridgestone S02's and they were great, wet or dry

Oil works best at the right temperature. When it's cold it offers less protection. Take it easy during this warm up and things last longer. At the right temperature, oils will release any moisture and some of the nasties that have accumulated in it. Idling may not reach this temperature long enough to effectively get rid of them.

Cheers Munny975

What does FAO mean?

Never warms it up enough to burn the nasties out of the oil

Dual MAF - 1 real - 1 dummy

Cool. The thinner the metal the finer thread you need

Make sure they machine it on the car

I'd have to agree. Certainly don't use S/Steel .... might as well use bits of frozen buter

Wouldn't be too nice if the flywheel popped into to say hello to your feet. There is a lot of energy in a flywheel and crank spinning at 7000 rpm and if you were to dump the clutch .........

It's the price you pay for specialty parts I'm afraid. It cost me $22 (around £7) per bolt for a high tensile (grade 12.9) countersunk cap screw 12x1.25 mm, and that is a standard bolt not specifically manufactured for a purpose.

How thick is the material you are tapping?

You can see where wires are leaking too ...... the hard bit is putting all that smoke back into them ;)

Here is some experimenting from an NZ site .... Also, don't forget the ECU will add more fuel if you run the temperture too low (cold start enrichment) which stops around 70 / 75 degrees from memory Sorry if you guys are in feren, faren, farenhegiht, farenhieght ..... ohh not celcius

If you change your radiator to an after market jobbie, more than likely the new one won't have an inbuilt trans cooler The viscous fan is good when you have some revs on but at low speed electric comes into it's own. If you get a good one, they dont have to be noisy and can pump a lot of air. No .... they have a viscous fan :headvswal The one electric fan they do have is for the air con but will switch on if certain conditions are met with the air con off i.e. they're stinkin hot

A larger radiator is good but why the lower temperature thermostat? Check this out http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/_cool3.html

If there was a duff connection bad enough to stop the motor running, there wouldn't be a voltage (or a very low one).